PandaR33

now have most of the parts needed. Front mount. stock manifold and turbo, down pipe, ecu, injectors and bosch 040 fuel pump just need cooler pipeing and braded lines. got a realy good price to. $600 for the lot. will have have to chase up a loom or can i use my own?

whare did you get those rims. i munched one a while ago and i have been looking for them ever since. cant even find the brand

100% plugs, try startting it and give it some big! revs in nutrel. if that doesnt work you will have to change the plugs. but dont bother with the irridum ones just get the normal ngk ones.

yeah you will have to. and deffonetly keep the drum hand brake. disk hand brake sucks.

i have heard both and wouldnt think twice about gettint the 12. type r 12" is a fantastic all rounder.

you dont have a location set mate.

check my thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Idea-t288775.html also http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...lin-t69998.html as for diff, should be fine. ratio wouldnt really matter, turbo isnt going to make a difference to that. you can use your sump but you will have to drill and tapp a hole for the oil retern. the other holes should (might not) have the oil and water points allready they will just be pluged up. not sure if the r33 turbo will have the oil and water in the same spot so you might have to run braded lines. you will need injectors and a fuel pump. (no point starving your motor) allso a cooler and exhaust. you inlet manifold will be fine. though you will ether need to get the stock metal inlet pipe (the one that runs across the rocker covers) or do some pi** farting around with cooler piping. you will want to run a pod filter and a cold air intake. I havent heard of anyone running a turbo on stock intenals from a n/a so you should probably keep it low boot, like 7ish psi. you could run the 20det computer but im fairly posative you will have to run a new wiering loom for it. but to really get some profomance you should atleast run a piggy back system like emeanage or safc. perferably if you have a manual a powerFC. as for any major issues, there is allways a rick when your running a turbo on a high comp moter. so a fairly big one would be blowing your motor. thats why you want to keep the boost low. i had a mate who dicided to push 25psi out of his 31 and quikly sent a con-rod straight through the block. hope i helped panda.

so i could just run a turbo computer and retard the timing. thats good to know. i would love a powerFC but i just dont have a grand to through at in ontop of all the other costs. would that mean i would have to change loom aswell? nathan maybee think of going manual, you wont regret it... panda.

mmm powerFC is a bit to costly. you say i can run a piggy-back system, could i run a safc? and will i have to change to the turbo computer?

i fugured exhuast is a given. though i was thinking stock down pipe then a de-cat pipe and 3" turbo back, till i have cash for new down pipe. i allready have an apexi pod in box with cod. I spoke to a mate today and i was tolk that my block should allready have the holes for the oil and water feed i should just nead to drill the sump for oil retern. true? what computer will i have to run? ie stock de or stock turbo till i can get something like a microtech or geready. panda

I know the thread but is based on a r34 which is a neo moter i think? wytsky, have you done any internal work. 12-14 psi on a high comp motor is allot. btw frkn nice. I allready have a near new excedy heavy duty button cluch and i'v heard that even a stock n/a gearbox is stronger then a sr20 box and mine is in very good condition. as for supporing mods i figured if im going to run fairly low boost i could just run stock det fuel pump and injectors. what is the comp ratio on a 25de? cheer panda

I was sent a pm from aleex (btw i sent you a pm) just to clarify, the wing is jet black (stock black) its of the very same car in my display picture. though the boot lid is only matt black.

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i know this im a mechenic. i just want to know how much boost the motor will take on na compression and internals. panda

awsome cooler piping setup. can you post a video or sound clip of running so i can hear what the dose sounds like?

if i were to bolt a turbo on my 25de how much boost could i safely run and how much power would i gain?

just buy my moter. or i would swap you loom and all.

hicas removel bar, like $90 on ebay

well im getting the 25det cheap and depending on the condition i might ditch the bottom end and go 25/30

If everything goes to plan i will soon be putting a new turbo moter in my r33. So seeming as i will have no use for it im going to sell my rb25de. It has 200,000k's on the clock but has been very well maintained and runs perfectly. Has new high proformance timing belt and pugs. oil and filter change every 5,000k's and coolent flush once a year. It will be sold as a compleat motor with loom and ecu. so im wondering how much to sell it for? I am also doing a 5 stud converstion so i will have a full set of 4 studs for sale with 1yro brakes and disks that are still in fairly new condition. also what should i ask for them? cheers panda

how much for 5 with post to werribee?

pm sent

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I have recently removed my series 2 spoiler (its actruly from a series 1.5, but no diff) and I i also have a spare boot lid. both are in good condition. spoiler is jet black with no scratchs and brake light works perfectly. Boot has no dints but is only matt black and looks to be sprayed in pressure pack also has no badges, and will be sold with s1 lock. also still has holes from spoiler. prices: Boot - $100 ono Spoiler - $150 ono I live in werribee vic. If interested please call Ross on 0431 112 483. I should have photos up soon. cheers panda.