PandaR33

you have a viscouse lsd (sorry for the miss spell) means it wont allways catch lsd. so in the wet its too easy for it to brake traction and doesnt need to spin both. though like hamish said it is probably a bit worn (wear will make it looser and wont catch as oftern) to fix this you could shim the diff which will make the diff tighter, just dont shim it too far or the diff will be locked. you can buy the shims from nissan for about 5 dollers each, you probably will only need one .8mm one. by memery it will take about 2mm to lock it. its not difficalt to do just a bit of work there should be something in the DIY section telling you how to do it. panda

I am trying to find out what is wrongs with my clutch (atleast i think its the clutch). when i start the car and go into gear, i physicly cant go into first and all the other gears i have to force it in (they are all very stiff while shifing when driving also) also to go into first i have to force it in also but it makes that crunching noise like the clutch isnt on far enough. i have drained the fluid and replaced and bled it. the pedal feels good but when i try for gears it feels like the clutch isnt engaging enough. when i brought the car (about 9 months ago i was told it had a fairly new clutch and though i drive hard i am good at menual and dont ride the clutch) please and thank you for your help, Panda.

How do you adjust the pedal??

lies, helmets just make you look more professional.

ok, well i am looking for power and one day plan on a minimum 200rwkw. so i guess its clear i need a stand alone system. i asked before but didnt get a reply, is the emenage stand alone or a piggy back? allso what would be the best compramise between price and a good product? i have never really looked into computers too much. everyone i know just oppted for a remap.

its a manual, i cant stand auto. yeah i would rather a power fc but i just dont have that kind of money. i was hoping around a grand.

I have a r33 s1 rb25de and im just wondering how do i advance my timings? i had a look on diy but couldnt find it. a photo would be grate if someone doesnt mind? cheers Panda.

is the emenage a stand alone system? how much does the emnage go for? i figured i would get a piggy back now and put it on the det computer when i convert it because i have heard that even with a piggy back the de computer doesnt run well with a turbo. i have allready done most of the suspention ie. tien coil overs, solid bushers etc. I need a new set of rims anyway so i was thinking i would do the 5 stud convertion with the det brakes just because it make rims allot easyer to find and who worldnt want better braking. thats why its not so bad that i have to wait to go turbo, means i have time to build the rest of the car before the motor. cheers Panda.

A 3" on an na is way over exhausted. 3" is best suited for a turbo, most likely your exhaust is for a turbo and was brought of ebay or something. your best bet is to change it to a 2 1/2" (understandably its not the cheapest option) ether that or do to your local exhaust place and get another muffler put in. another note, im fairly sure you dont have to get the same brand name silencer so long as you get the right size for your tip (i have seen them for sale at autobarn) then you just have to knock it in and drill a small hole in the very end of you cannon and wack a nut and botl through to hold it in. (dont asume just because its a tight fit it will stay in without a bolt, it will fall out one day) panda.

Haha, gotta love it. everyones like "umm what your doding is illeagal, but try this. should help" fact is. your in an auto skyline man, its just not built to do stand stills, if you were drifting it would be a difforent story but even then your in an auto which is no good for drifting anyway. Your using the wrong car for the application. that said, its a matter of factors ie. too much grip, the car is fairly heavy compaired to the power, and it really doesnt help that you dont have a clutch. Panda.

currently i only have basic mods (cat-back exhaust and apexi pod with a cai) im hopeing to go turbo after i get off my p's but im wondering if i should get a safc now. Does anyone have one with simuler mods and what kind numbers did you gain out of it? or any other computer systems i should look at? (i have heard the emenage can cause some troubbles with the n/a's) Im looking at just a piggy back system as like most i dont have a huge budget. Im thinking i will rebuild my rb25de for turbo but i havent done any more modding yet as im not exactly sure what will be compatable for na or a turbo application. cheers panda.

Why did you quote me?

any figures on how much power was gained from the safc? i have been thinking about getting one but wasnt sure if it was worth it.

its all good, finaly got it all back together today, after a huge headake and a bunch of swear words. I s**t myself when i took it for a drive and the rear end was sliding all over the place and felt like the whole suspention was floating and shifting around. ternd out the steering rod on the hicas was bent so the rear wheels were trying to go in difforent directions. so i took it off and gave it some hard bending. still needs a wheel alainment but its drivable. you can new close this if you like gene. cheers guys, panda.

Its ok, i have worked it out. Its kind of embarrising im an ex-3rd mechenic and i must have done atleast 20 in my time, on other cars. Please excuse the starting post to this topic i just quikly wrote it before i went to be. I picked up the new arm yesterday for $100. Should get it in today but the 22mm nut that joins to the hub is very f-tight (bent one of my spanners in it) i have taken the split pin out, is there a nack to getting it off or do i just have to take the axil out and hit it with a braker bar? Also haveing a little troubble working out how to get the bolt out (the one closer to the front of the car) as i cant get enough space to get a hammer and a screw driver in. I have wrecked the rim that was on there, i have a spair one but it has a crack straght through one of the spokes. Tossing up wether i could get away with running it like that or any rough guess' on how much it would cost to repair it? sure ill work it out, cheers Panda

well its a long story how i did this but i need to know the name of one of the pieces in my rear end (as i have bent it and need the know the name so i know what to ask for) its one of the main linkages that holds the bottom of the strut together, its on the very bottem of the assembley and bolts on in three places one bolts onto the suspention just inderneath where cv joint for the hicas connects to the wheel and the other 2 bolt the the shassy. also i think its a sway bar that is bolted to it, its very thick mettal thats in a kind of a y shape. being bent it has made the bottem of the wheel camber in allot. thanks for your help. panda

i did this to mine but for some reson it made my centrel locking and alarm stop working (the alarm is an after market one)

ok so i have to do the stud convertion, is that a leagal stand point? 350 is probably too much, just an estimation but atleast over 200. silly question what is e85. and what are the percific difforences beween the turbo and na engine? allso i have allready prettymuch done the suspention side of things, bushers, sway bars, and a set of tein coil overs. brakes will be done before i turbo it. im just keeping the car for the fun of building it. that and alot is allready done.

ok, so im still about a year of turboing my r33 but figured i might start planing and sorcing parts. so im wondering wether i should re-build my rb25de or do an engine swap. im hoping on doing a re-build ether way (as im looking for between 250-350rwkw) and i have been priced $2500 for rb25det engine, gearbox and loom. so im asking what are the exact difforences in the turbo to not turbo engines? and what what i be looking at doing to the engine to pull those kinds of figures?

well that explains allot, cheers. i thought they were a on all stock 33's. you can close this if you like eug.

Im talking about the ones next to the indicators, there is no button on the indicator stalk other then the one to turn on the head lights. so still dont know how to turn them on. Thanks for telling me what the bar is called been trying to find out. Im getting a Siries 2 front bar for x-mas so im going to sell my m-spec, its black with the lights (not factry optioned lights) and in near perfect condition... what is is worth? and whats a s2 bar worth?

i assumed this because i couldnt find a button.

I have a 94 s1 r33 non turbo and silly question, how do i turn the for lights on? i assumed they would go on with the high beem but thats not the case.

I got my license December last year. Though in Vic (where I live) if you got you license in June or July last year (a year before the new laws kidded in) you have the same power restrictions. Of corce in typical Vic roads mannor there was absolutely no notifications when I got my license. It’s all absolutely hopeless, I mean the rules are understandable but the rules are set so stupidly that most people aren’t even sure of the rules. Before I called Vic roads to find out exactly what rules I had I asked my cosion who is a cop and even he didn't know that I had these restrictions, even most people at Vic roads don’t know... How the F**K can we abide by these rules if no one knows them?

s**t man, my r33 only cost 9k and arnt imports cheeper in qld. sorry to hear that man. Got my baby back today, just need to find new rims looks like i have a pair of 17's for burnout tyers.