liampire

I recently removed the front main seal of my gearbox to replace gasket as it was leaking. When it was off i saw three pin like rods (which i now know are the ends of the selecting rods). I have pushed the bottom one in with my finger out of curiosity and it pushed in. Not thinking anything of it I put everything back together and went to select gears and now it seems like the gearbox is stuck in first gear. However the position of the gear selector in the cabin appears to be in neutral. I drove the car and you cannot select any gears but can drive it in 1st gear. I have unbolted a sensor on the gearbox and was able to push the rod back into place (the one that I had pushed in) but it made no difference and still stuck in first. Has anyone experienced this before? Here is a picture. Main seal is removed. The rod at the bottom is the one that has been pushed in. Thanks in advance, Liam.

Hey guys, thanks for your responses. We are going to play around and use a washer to space the pivot ball a little. And see how that goes.

BUMP

Man i'd be careful with that one. The police are pretty strict with defects now and will impound your car. Not 100% sure on the rulings but would probably be an ass raping nonetheless.

Hi, here is some useful information about noises that I found a on a website: http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/ic20428.htm MANUAL TRANSMISSION DIAGNOSIS People buy vehicles with manual transmissions for several reasons, one being that a manual transmission often comes standard and costs less than an automatic. Manuals are also more durable than automatics and make sense for drivers who put a lot of miles on a vehicle or plan to keep it a long time. And they are just fun to drive: Manuals give the driver more control over the drivetrain and the engine's power output to the wheels. But they can also be very tiring to drive in heavy stop-and-go traffic. Consequently, most manual transmission problems fall into one of three areas: Clutch related (worn or slipping clutch); clutch or shift linkage problems (leaky slave or master hydraulic cylinder, broken or misadjusted cables, worn release bearing, etc.); or the gear box itself (bad synchronizers, noisy, worn or broken gears, worn bearings, bent or broken shift forks, pops out of gear, and so on). If the transmission seems to be making noise, don't assume the problem is a bad transmission. A lot of things can produce noise that may sound like it is coming from the transmission. This includes worn CV joints, loose or broken motor mounts, and flywheel or clutch problems. A test drive will confirm the complaint and help you diagnose what might be causing the noise. If the noise is only noticeable at idle, does it change when the clutch pedal is depressed? A change would probably indicate a problem with the release bearing or pilot bearing. To find out what is causing the noise, set the parking brake, place the vehicle in neutral and start the engine. If you hear growling or grinding noises when the clutch is engaged, the cause is the transmission input shaft bearing. A squealing sound that occurs when the clutch pedal is depressed and held is usually caused by a bad pilot bearing or bushing. A chirping noise that intensifies when the pedal is slowly depressed would indicate a bad release bearing. If you hear chirping while idling in neutral and the noise goes away when the pedal is slowly depressed, the fork/pivot ball contact point is making the noise. Tip: On some BMW M3 models, what sounds like transmission noise at idle is often caused by a bad dual mass flywheel. Replacing the flywheel usually cures this problem. Noise that occurs only while driving or in a certain gear usually indicates a gear or bearing problem inside the transmission. If a particular gear grinds when shifting, that gear's synchronizer is probably damaged and needs to be replaced. If all the gears grind or clash when shifting, the clutch may be dragging or not fully releasing when the clutch pedal is depressed. Gear noise in all gears at all speeds may be the result of worn shaft bearings, thrust washers or gears, or a low lubricant level in the gear box (check the level). A transmission that is stuck in gear can be caused by a bent shift linkage, broken shift cable, a shift rail or interlock failure, or a broken gear inside the transmission. A transmission that jumps out of gear may be due to bent, binding or loose shift linkage, a loose transmission or clutch housing, worn or damaged input shaft bearings, broken motor mount, worn tapered gear teeth or synchronizer hub splines, loose shifter fork or rails, interlock hardware that is broken or missing, or excessive end play or runout in the output shaft or countergear. If nothing happens when the transmission is put into any gear, the clutch may not be engaging, a CV joint or U-joint may be broken, or the main drive gear or countergear is stripped.

Yeah it will just chirp all the time when you are trying to turn as both wheels will be turning at the same speed...normally your outer wheel will turn fast than your inside wheel when turning...Personally it'd be a big risk driving your vehicle to an event as it will be really obvious to the police if they see you trying to turn at an intersection and it will be chirping and skipping around the corner. You will get your ass kicked by the police. Get a proper car trailer or by a mechanical diff (around $1500) or run the risk of getting caught.

Hi all, My friend has a 32GTST with a RB25 engine conversion. He has kept his RB20 gearbox and has run it for over 12 months, gearbox started to develop a noise and recently a gear broke. We put another RB20 gearbox in and it worked beautifully but now has problems shifting into 3rd and 4th gears, just grinds. Car has a brand new exedy HDB clutch kit. The car rarely gets driven and is not really raced or driven hard. A local workshop said that the clutch fork pivot ball is the problem and to change it to a RB25 pivot ball and possibly use a washer or two behind it so the clutch can be adjusted properly. I know ultimately the best thing to do would be use an RB25 gearbox. Has anyone else experienced this problem when using an RB20 gearbox behind a RB25 engine? Thanks, Liam.

Aloha to all! I'm new to register on SAU. I have been building a Nissan Silvia powered by an RB20DET. Car was stripped down to a rolling shell and taken to bare metal. I seam welded the whole car before I resprayed the interior in gloss black and the exterior and engine bay in Ford Shockwave Blue. I used acrylic based paint for the primer and colour and cleared everything with 2 pack clear. It was the most cost effective way to do it. I'm in the process of putting it all back together. The engine is standard however I have upgraded the injectors to 550cc units and using a Garrett GT2860 Disco Potato 0.86 A/R. Stainless low mount manifold. I have to use a custom dump so I have a nice split CNC flange on it's way and will buy some pipe from the exhaust shop and make my own system. Everything has been done in house. The car will be used for track and drift primarily but will be road registered. Later down the track I will have a cage installed or possibly make one myself. I'm using D2 coilovers. Here are some pictures of work in progress.