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PHaT MR30

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Everything posted by PHaT MR30

  1. yeh remember that a normal o2 sensor only reads a 1 volt spectrum of accuracy... i wouldn't pay much attention to it we had a mates old soarer on the dyno a few weeks back which was doing weird stuff according to an autometer a/f guage, and yeh found it to be perfectly normal to go lean on decelleration and idle (mind you on the high side of lean)... read Sydneykids article on the Tech Edge wide band A/F thingo
  2. Im after one of these off an Infiniti or Cima, they come off a VH45DE and are 80-90mm i/d. don't care on condition as long as it works and prefer not to have the traction control module if possible. Tim,
  3. PHaT MR30

    Tas Whoretown

    nahh needs a roundabout
  4. dunno if i would be elligible for octagon B, but im more than happy to help in the pits for you maybe we can get the kart out or just do club days
  5. I have worked it out, but have not yet put it in practice... i dunno what you are using but in my case i am using an LT8. Use the Aux Output through a relay and have it wired up so that the solinoid is on till the ECU reaches the Set RPM in the Aux Output menu (i think from memory it works best between 4500-4700rpm). so basically what happening is the solinoid is switched on all the time, the ECU sends an output to the relay at set rpm to break the circuit and therefore turn the solinoid off... i am fairly sure this is right, how ever i would need to check with sydneykid as to when the solinoid should be turned on and off... got some diagrams of how to wire it up at home i can post up later. Hope that makes sense
  6. Guy I know down here has an R33, i don't know exact specs but its definately got forgies, tomei cams and cam gears, runs a TD06-20g... anyway that originally made 262.5rwkw on 13.2 psi using a jap chipped ecu... he then had Splitfire coils and a Haltech put in it and most importantly a decent clutch and it pulled 300.2rwkw on 17.2 psi not to mention this is on our awesome 95RON Fuel, reckon he can get more out of it easily, but needs more boost, and better fuel not to mention needs a decent tune for the street as his missus uses it as a daily driver.
  7. hey do you know where to get the replacement sender for the temp guage???
  8. Does this hit the track much? sounds interesting
  9. Well as an example Phat R33 and i have both just rebuilt and are putting big turbo's on RB25's and both went different ways about it, but both got our work done at S&D Bell Auto... Im not giving figures of whats been spent by either of us but the questions to ask yourself is, what do you want to do with the car... IE; street driven, drag, track, drift, combo of a few etc How much power do you want to make, and when would you prefer it to be made? these sort of questions will determine what you do and do not need to do to get power out of the engine... I could waffle on all day about this, but i will wait till you can answer more questions (and im sure others would like to have a say too) maybe start a new thread about this?
  10. a few workshops in Launceston, though they can get expensive.. Chris Colgrave Fueltech JWA S&D Bell Automotive Advance Auto & LPG heaps of others i cant think of
  11. sounds like you got the same problem as my mates 32, his headlights are so dull on low beam that he drives around on high beam http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=1469 thats his car
  12. is there any difference again in using the 7057 (7200) over the 6066??? also where on the site do you order the DIY kit? Currently working on a diagnostics unit for facotry ECU's that was in Elector magazine (if anyones interested), once thats done i'll be onto one of these, albeit a 2E0
  13. Is launceston closer?
  14. if i looked that hot id probably wank in the mirror
  15. or just go aftermarket ecu which doesn't have a hissy fit!!!
  16. Firstly your gonna have to block up the return line, you can buy some bov's which partly vent to atmosphere and plumb back... you can also buy a gadget called a HKS IDS or IDC or something like that which stablises the idle... best place to have one is in the stock position, they work most effectively as close to the throttle body as possible, and there is less chance yo will have to do any fabrication.
  17. PHaT MR30

    Pulp 98

    you have too much money benny boi, share the love
  18. PHaT MR30

    Pulp 98

    Hmm why does one servo tell you they will have it in a mater of months if not weeks and another tells you that tassie will never have it??? Is my car any closer? No, have i got a big shiny turbo yet? no, Have my hubs turned up yet? No.
  19. Im with floody, don't ruin it with a veilside kit... they may look good on other cars but on a 32 WRONG!
  20. Thats not Paul by any chance?
  21. Ford Laser KB shit box with a massive GReddy decal on the rear bumper! seen in casino car park!
  22. another thing was my mates R31 gts-x had problems with the TPS causing the idle to drop and sometimes stall
  23. haha nah i got rid of mine in january :'( got the silvia now
  24. AFM dirty? Idle Control Valve not working right? do you have an atmo bov? think std boost is about 7 psi but with no zorst i would expect it to rise
  25. dunno what your on about, id gladly have an excel or accent as a daily, but i wouldn't mod it and put decals and rice can's and shit on it
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