Lum

Oooh, I didn't know there was supposed to be a key like that. Not that it'd make a huge difference on my car as it has an electric boot release anyway, but now I'm going to have to look into getting a valet key since the control boxes for my Defis are in the glovebox.

That's a 180sx to the Aussies I'd suggest you pop over to the for sale section on sxoc you'll probably find someone selling an S13 LSD there.

Nissan do sell key blanks you know. Here are the part numbers: KEY00-00091 - Key-Blank, Fashion (This is the plastic one with the Cefiro logo) KEY00-00066 - Key-Blank, Master KEY00-00075 - Key-Blank, Sub FWIW, mine came with the "Fashion" key, though I can't take a picture as the car is in for repair right now.

I have that one too. Since I've never found any mention of it anywhere, my guess was it was the 4WD controller. Is yours an RWD Cefiro, thus proving me wrong?

I thought nistune kit just replaced the diagnostic LED and potentiometer with a USB connector on non-consult ECUs.

What does this achieve other than the convenience of not having to unbolt the ECU to get at the diagnostic codes?

It's time to replace the Lambda sensor I think, 16 years old and still on the original one probably explains my piss-poor fuel economy (400km to a tank is the best I've ever had) It's hard to find info about these, but OZA395-E2 seems to be the one recommended for the R32 GTS-T so I'm guessing it would be right for the Cefiro. Anyone got any other suggestions, especially since that one isn't available in the UK.

There is no plug as such, just an LED and a potentiometer on the side of the ECU itself. The procedure is the same as for the S13 (or at least it's the same as the CA18DET S13, I have no experience with the SR20 ones)

The standard of work is very good, very well executed. Why go to all that work swapping in a non-RB engine, then leave it as an auto. I like autos for daily driving but that car doesn't look like a daily driver.

My car only has one, and it's this one. I don't have HICAS. HTH.

Unfortunately since the alignment shop had to pay money to get those settings as they're not on the system, I doubt they'll be too chuffed if I ask for regular A31 settings. Best bet is find a shop with a Hunter alignment machine and ask them to align your car, Hunter should have settings for that too. As for mine, the rear is adjustable. When it went in both rears matched, they "fixed" the camber on the rear right and then declared that the rear left was too tight for them to undo. This is on a rust-free fresh import, the muppets were also trying to undo it with a 12 sided socket. So I left with one wheel set differently to the other three and now the back end kicks out when I turn left. The fronts, only option for the Skyline is a set of expensive top mounts. I guess I'll just have to live with the camber for now, just means I can't lower the car

Turned out that the company that makes the alignment machine actually have settings for the Cefiro, and they're slightly different from the Skyline. This scan should show the valid ranges, and also what a crap job the garage did at aligning my car. It handles worse than when I took it in. Settings may be different if you have an RWD Cefiro. In fact they almost certainly are due to the different suspension design. Any idea how to fix the front caster and rear toe? Also any cheap way to adjust the front camber as the current level of camber is preventing me from lowering the car

Well, some of the local chavs decided to modify my car for me, by dropping a brick off a bridge onto my windscreen That's going to delay my plans somewhat. Wonder how long the insurance are going to take to get me a new windscreen. Edit: Oh year, the brick got my boot too. So much for having a really clean car

Could you PM me the VIN numbers of both cars. I'll have a look and see if the front wings have the same part number. I can probably check just using the first part of the vin (eg. HNR32 or whatever) if you'd prefer not to send me the whole thing.

All sorted, only problem I had was losing one of the bloody nuts that hold the replacement on. Will have to get a replacement tomorrow. Now I need to get a sandwich plate and oil temp/pressure sensors. R32 one I guess.

That was exactly what I was planning to do. I wasn't happy about the idea of drilling through the bulkhead, but taking that plate indoors and drilling it with nothing expensive (or likely to catch fire) nearby is fine. Just got to find somewhere that sells rubber grommets now. Shouldn't be too hard.

I thought that was a bad idea on the stock turbo because the ceramic blades like to detach and land in your engine. Next up is an R32 GTR anti roll bar, then filter and exhaust. Then I'll think about turbos, and probably bodge in an FMIC from a Volvo 740

It's not going to be heavily modified, nor is it going to be drifted. I got one of the 4WD versions specifically to avoid getting one that's been used for drifting It's also staying as an auto for at least the next couple of years which limits the mod potential somewhat. I also tend to keep it looking as original as possible, no bodykits or anything like that, though if a set of Autech bumpers/skirts came up I'd probably put those on. I would've kept the standard wheeks if they'd fit over the brakes, but at least those Momos are from the correct time period. Hopefully it'll stay in good condition. As I'm using this as a daily driver, it depends mainly on how well Nissan's paintwork holds up against stonechips and whether someone decides to drive into the back of me again (happened to the Legacy 3 times in the 4 years I owned it)

There is just bare metal behind that plate? or is it just what the dash bolts to, and I can safely push the wires down (yes it's still raining, yay for Britain!)

Well, I took the liner out, found the massive rubber grommet and took that out, so far so good however the existing loom then goes through a hole that is exactly the same size as the bit of loom and is made of some sort of hard material, not sure exactly what. It then started pissing down so I had to put the car back together very quickly. Guess I have to cut something to get the wires through then? How annoying.

Urgh, does that mean I have to take the arch liner out (and also the wheel) and poke the wires through a second hole? If I take that plate off (yes, it's staying Auto) will that one get me through to the cabin in a reasonable place? (I'd check myself but it's just started raining heavily) Presumably I'll need to line the hole with something to stop it cutting the wire afterwards.

I need to run some wires for some gauges, and possibly an audio install in the future. Only place I can find to run wires (left of the VIN plate) goes into the wheelarch which isn't helpful, however I've also noticed there's a metal plate just to the right of the brake booster that I could probably unscrew. Will that let me put some wires through? Every other car I've worked on has at least one rubber grommet on the bulkhead that you can cut a hole into and poke wires through, where is it on the Ceffy?

Some questions about this. It's an amplifier, but it's accepting an amplified signal already, ie the speaker output from your headunit which will typically be 22W RMS, however the rear speakers are only rated for 8W RMS. I haven't looked at the front ones. Does it just drive the rear speakers or does it drive the front ones too. If it's just driving the rears then is it perhaps a high pass filter and the rears are just tweeters with the fronts being full range? If it is actually an amplifier and drives all 4 speakers is there any way to trick it into accepting a line-level input as this will allow me to simplify my Car PC install dramatically as I'll just need to glue my USB soundcard to the amplifier and make up some leads rather than do a full amp+speakers installation.

Update time: R33 brakes and Momo wheels: Got my transparent numberplate in the post on Saturday, meaning I could use the backlit frames the car came with and bin that stick-on LED light that was used to get it through registration, and was starting to fall off anyway Also fitted an Apexi Multichecker, Defi Link Controller II (with no gauges yet) and Defi VSD Concept, which sorts out my other issue, the fact that I had no MPH speed display Still need to sort out the amp and speakers as these are a prerequisite before I can put my Car PC in.

Excellent, PM me the bill and your paypal address then, I guess.