Binofski

Yeh mate, thats a bit on the expensive side, I got a full 3' system with split dump/front and a Jasma muffler on the end for only $150 off of the forum

+1 to coilpacks and spark plug gap.... Search function is your friend

Image One: Blow off Valve (Plumbed Back) Image Two: Waste Gate ACTUATOR (opens the waste gate when the desired level of pressure (boost) is reached. Image Three: You point to the centre of the turbo?? that bolt ontop is one of the oil lines going in..... Shaft of the turbo runs though it from the compressor side to the exhaust side... Turbo correct Then you have your dump (front pipe is the next section depending on if u have an aftermatket combined dump / front pipe. Where you say pipe it looks like u r pointing to the exhaust maifold... if not that line below you can see is a water line to the turbo. Inage Four: Fuel Filter Hope this helps mate, but as the others said track down an engine manual for the 33 it will show you everything.

Just know that if you want anything but dayco belts you will most likely have to wait cuz alot of places dont have them on shelf.. The dayco ones being from repco. Also got my own trick for the belts, good old petrolium jelly (vasoline) always worked well on my mates old senator.

+1 to that Waste of time to try n keep the old stuff, easier to cut it all off and get some fresh stuff

Amen to doing it while you're in there... I did my full belt change put it all back together and turned her on n went for a drive and behold i had overtensioned the timing belt slightly and it was making a noise.... But hey im pretty bloody fast at it now

throw up a list of any mods that you have to help everyone sort out what is going on.

Yeh supercheap stock them, but they are a bit expensive its about $38 for 10 inches of silicon (straight)

Gotta say if you want a cheap security option which makes ppl look in n go f*&k that then get a decent quality steering wheel lock (club lock). Also if you park it with the front tyres on hard lock with this it wont stopp pplz towing it away but may atleast draw some attention or piss them off a bit... But that switch for the fuel pump also sounds like a good idea. Sorry to hear about your car mate all the best with it. Id throw up a please help or keep an eye out topic if my pride n joy was taken.

Mothers Plastic Polish also works a treat

Yeh bought it from a guy who said it was a catless system... Got home bolted it up n realised there was a gap which matched where the cat would be So yeh just on the cheap atm... so am waiting for one to come up.

Hey sorry to hijack this thread a bit but what sort of power gain do you think i would see converting from a standard cat (2.5 inch inlet / outlet modified to fit 3 inch) to a highflow cat? Note I currently have a full split dump / front pipe which is 3' and the rest of the exhaust (excluding cat) is 3' aswell.

N-DAWG, Yeh there is little or no lag coming onto boost, the wheels are the typical 5 stud r33 pattern. I know that the badges aren't everything though it was the complete absence of any sign of the hicas system which really set me off. There are no modification plates on the chassis beyond the usual import plates. Thus im thinking that the conversion could have been completed before it was imported though Im really not sure. I'll grab some pics and post them up today. R34- -, I know about the coil packs, though they would be easy to switch them over. What im looking at is seeing if the motor is a turbo or non turbo from factory. Reason for this is obviously about the compression ratio in the engine and my ability to boost it up. As it sits I can't see anything on the engine itself that points me in either direction... Cheers guys

Sorry to revive an old thread, but i thought it was better to revive one then to create another identical one. Basically im looking for a way to check if my engine is originally from a turbo or non turbo R33. eg if the person just bolted on turbo bits or if they changed the whole engine. I know my skyline was originally (factory) non turbo as the badges are blue, open diff (until i got to it...) and no hicas. I know the compression seems to be the only difference and thus i will do a compression test once i get my compression tester back from my brother.. Can you tell anything from the engine number?? Mine is: 181875A cheers guys.

how much it would be for the Coilovers posted to 4213 (Gold Coast)?

SOLD!!! To me!

Real keen on this mate, sent u a pm before, just wanna see some pics of the radiator and ill b sold. PM me back with pics and your number so as i can easily get back to you. Cheers

Real keen on this mate, sent u a pm before, just wanna see some pics of the radiator and ill b sold. PM me back with pics and your number so as i can easily get back to you. Cheers

Hey Mate also after a dyno sheet for the 3071r can you also include a mods list for the car it was running on? cheers mate

Hey, How much for the rear strut brace? Will it suit a Series 2 R33 GTS-T?

PM Sent

THats some nice power for just a FMIC Pod Exhaust and only 11 pound! Have you got a dyno sheet?

try looking through the dyno results... search function also works...

PM sent