Binofski

Hey Mate, I'll take a look at it today and ill get back to you about it. Gotta see if I have sikaflex to put it back together with. Mic

The Diff is out of a Series 2 N/A R33.

Bump, Open to Offers

Following Items are sold: R33 Series 1 Manual ECU Pod filter Adaptor (Suit Standard afm?) All other Items STILL FOR SALE!!

No sorry, only got the stuff thats listed. Cheers

The thing in the middle of the right hand side is just another barb which could be used as a spot for a sensor, or simply left with the rubber bung on it. I've attached some pics to give you a better look at it. It was used by the original owner for a few dyno runs while he was tuning, but he replaced it with a thinner saber one which suited him better. So I would say a few weeks use max. Thing comes up like a mirror after a polish. Mic

Hey Guys, Just decided to try and clean out my garage in hope of fitting a car back in there one of these days. Below are pictures of each of the items; feel free to ask any questions. I can be contacted via PM, I'm on here most days and will generally reply fairly quickly. Feel free to make offers, you never know! R33 Genuine Nissan Underbody Plastic - First one i've seen - $40 R33 Standard Front and Rear Swaybars (with rubbers) - $40 for both or $25 each R33 Open 6 Bolt R200 Diff (4.11 Ratio) - $60 R33 Drive Shafts (6 Bolt to suit above diff) - $40 for both R33 Washer Bottle (unsure if motors work) - $15 R33 Series 2 Passenger Light (needs to be resealed, cover was taken off for cleaning. Plastic cover has small crack, not visible from front.) - $80 Apexi Boost Gauge 60mm (Fake?) - $30 R33 Stock Suspension Front and Rear (Average Condition) - $50 for all of it Diff Back Exhaust (Good for Compliance) - $40 R33 Standard Dump / Front Pipe - $30 Standard RB25DET Cams - $40 R33 Maroon Boot Lid (No Spoiler, Lock or Hinges) - $30 T Sport Boost Gauge 52mm (All wiring and boost line Included) - $40 R33 Series 1 Manual ECU - $60 6 x R33 Series 2 Coilpacks (All working when removed) - $80 Pod filter Adaptor (Suit Standard afm?) - $15 Custom PWR Radiator (Thick core, looks mint) - $450 Decided to stick with my standard radiator. Side panels make it easy to mount. Comes with Thermo Fan as shown in pictures. Dimensions of the Radiator are 400 High, 550 Wide to Sidetanks, 700 Wide to Panels and around 60 Thick as pictured. All of the parts can be picked up from the Gold Coast (Robina Area) or I can post at buyers expense. Mic

Hey Guys. Im after a Series 2 Drivers seat to replace mine that is damaged. Will take a pair if you do not want to sell them seperately. Local preferred (postage on a seat would cost a mint) im located on the Gold Coast. Please post or PM me price and pictures if possible as well as location. Cheers, Mic

PM Sent

Keen on parts PM'ed about also keen on 6Boost Manifold... PM me your number and ill call you today

Not sure if this has been covered, only a little difference but in the centre console of Series 1's before 1995 (No Drivers Airbag) the compartment in the centre console is bigger as there was no need to accomidate the air bag module which is there in later models with airbags.

I've got a full set of coilpacks to suit series 2 rb25det. Im located on the Gold Coast, PM me if interested

Hey mate how much for dash plastic including the gearstick surround and boot?

km??

PM Sent for PFC

To ME!!!! Thanks alot mate, went in perfectly and you were right about the front being a tiny bit tight. Put them up to my other Whitelines for my brothers 200sx and they were exactly the same so all in all very happy CHEERS

Hey Mate, I'll take a rear swaybar bracket that mounts it to the chassis if you have one?

LOL at this thread, probably more so cuz im actually sitting on my ass at work (Supercheap Auto) while reading it I'll b the first to admit 90% of the guys here dont know shit here is an example from my own store. guy who works here owns a r34 4 door na. First of all he thought it was turbo when he bought it.... fail now he comes up to me and says what oil should he put in it, naturally i tell him if he can reccommend oil to a customer he should b able to pick his own f*$%in oil... so he goes and picks out 20W50 *facepalm* and then to add insult to injury he asks me if this is the right oil for his 2L engine. Im like its a rb25, n he goes nar its a 2L so i tell him to show me. He opens the bonnet and points to a small sticker on the right strut tower.... A sticker which is completely in japanese except for one tiny little bit in the right hand corner which says 2L. We all just need to keep in mind that if you are going to go for the convenience.... you may not always get the quality you want

Well managed to fix it all up now, ended up being that I'd moved the Cam angle sensor from its original position thus changing the timing But pulls hard to redline now, thanks again to all who helped out!

Doobs, that fixed the warm idle problem! car is sooo much smoother especially when i come on and off the throttle. Still having problems getting full power i think i need to check on my afm though i only cleaned it a few weeks ago... Car seems hesitant to pull hard through the rev range

Yeh if you are going to try it yourself get some spray to loosen the nuts first... take it from a guy who went through the hell of having to take off the turbo fail with an easy out and then end up spending 8 drill bits getting it all out so a stud could get tapped in

Yeh those readings sound really off. I just completed a compression test on my skyline and got 157 across the board (rb25det) which is what yours should be close to. THe manual for the engine says that the limit is 0.9Mpa on the rb25det which is 130psi and factory is 175psi. Another problem is that the engine is ment to be warm when performing a compression test.

Hey mate, yeh i will double check that tonight. Only thing thats doing my head in is that it only happens when its warm.

Hey Guys, Got a problem with my car atm that is doing my head in. It's a Series 2 R33 GTS-T with the only mods being a full exhaust. Basically what is happening is when the car has reached its normal operating temp, (about half way on the temp gauge) when i stop at a set of lights for example it will idle fine for a minute but then the revs will drop from say 7-800 down to around 500 so the car feels like it is going to die, and then pick back up again. Also when it is doing this if i put my foot on the throttle just slightly the car will almost stall out before coming back more aggressively to try and stay alive. The car has been lacking its usual power lately and seems to be hesitant at certain stages throughout the rev range. I have done a full wet and dry compression test, the dry coming up as 155 - 157 across all 6 and the wet as 175-176 across all the cylinders so i know thats all good. Im considering taking it to someone with a cable to plug in and see if any error codes are coming up. Would be a great help if anyone could suggest anything. Cheers

Hey Guys, Looking to buy and build up a RB25DET Head, am Located on the Gold Coast but will pay postage if nescessary. Please post pics and prices or PM me. Cheers, Mic