tridentt150v
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Posts posted by tridentt150v
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4 hours ago, ChrisW434 said:
Whoa, not so sure about that option 😄
So....you think you will get one covered for less than $600....that's lineball IMO. Do your homework, but it is hard to find a business that does Skyline type wheels. We fall into a black hole that nobody cares about/ There are restorers that work on older sold wheels for Chevies and EH Holdens etc, then there are those that work on R35/Porsche/BMW wheels. I found it very hard to find anyone that works on our era cars...nobody seems interested.
Try a few upholstery businesses, but I'd doubt you will get it that much cheaper, as GTSBoy said, labour isn't cheap. And a Momo in good condition will set you back over $1,000. Remember you will need to keep your airbag setup.....and that raises the cost.
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Or... there are guys advertising on ebay...send your steering wheel to them...they send it to Singapore???? or somewhere like that and it gets totally rebuilt to your specs. but everything costs!!!
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No, not yet...its on the list of 'things to do' , but have been spending $$$$ on a concrete parking area and a cattle grid etc.
Will get to it. let me know how yours goes, looks, softness, finish etc ok?
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On 21/03/2023 at 7:02 PM, hardsteppa said:
This is a subject that pi55es me off; tank-life 4wds can be fitted with steel and aluminium literal battering rams on the front, winches, spotlights, steel bike racks on cars etc and apparently it's fine. Yet you get told those front wings are 'illegal' and hazardous when they appear to be constructed of a suitable material, no sharp edges or corners, don't protrude more than 150mm from the body outline, etc. The section of the Code which covers this is so vague and brief, and open to interpretation for the most part that it comes down to the individual's point of view.
Eg " All material is to be of a suitable thickness " suitable for what? Thick enough not to constitute a sharp knife-like edge, or not too thick that it still creates a breakable/collapsible structure in the event of collision? Depends on the specific part of course so, open to interpretation.
Looks like your wing endplates all have rounded corners rather than sharp points; are the end plates more than 4mm thick?
Not to mention ladder racks and trailer steel mudguards. I have a rear wing, haven't been accosted by the law yet but its always there!!! I think the reasons and the 'law' is an ass on this...they should be focusing on real lawbreakers rather than displaying their awesome power by nitpicking.
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E85 or WMI [depending on availability or convenience] really has this covered for the street.
One day I'd like to run my setup without and then with the WMI and test the various [air, engine, exhaust etc] temperature differences.......but without is engine destroying😂 I get knock levels over 200.
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Not sure where you are talking about?
Is it this one? Cos it looks Ok to get at.
Try using a program called Lightshot if you are on a PC.
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Good thing, thats an ex army version last used in Desert Storm. The sand killed most of them!!!
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I'm looking for an indoor dust cover for my R33. The old one I have is sort of plush velvety material, could even be compared to a thin hoodie type material, very easy on the paint etc.
So am looking for something the same......note I don't need an outdoor canvas type cover. Also not really interested in anything over say $300.
There are a heap on ebay, but none really nail down what the material finish really is, so an online purchase would be a fingers crossed sort of gamble.
Anybody have any recommendations or experience?
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It looks OK, they all do/did............moot point, cos I'll never own one. I just can't see myself having a spare $200K [give or take] laying around. And if I ever did, an R35 [or any car] would not be at the top of my bucket list.
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On 06/02/2023 at 4:58 PM, niZmO_Man said:
they think you're part of 5T or something
nah, they all drive mercs, BMW or Audi's....it's a status thing!
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Just buy a Tesla!!!
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When I take mine out the cobwebs trail along behind me like a 'just married' string😂
I have to get a pink slip and get it registered again this month, I will see how many km I've done. Estimate <100.
Since I have the new dog, the 4wd gets used heaps more. And can't leave the dog at home cos he gets bad SAS levels [Separation Anxiety Syndrome]...........so he has to come.
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I also thought that insurance was harder to get on a repairable write off, is this true? is it an issue?
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If your HB is wobbling at all, its f'ked. Think about doing a kit job.....if your water pump etc are also 'vintage' then do the whole belt, pump, idler etc at the same time [unless they have only recently been done].
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Surely you can buy a unit from a wreck, send it off to a clock/gauge shop and get it refurbished and/or recalibrated to as new and for a lot less than what they are asking?
I admit a did look further down the search list and there were other [albeit older] units for sale for about half the above examples.....but that is still a $3000+ unit. Still a lot for a 20 year old second hand and not particularly rare item.
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That's serious drug money these days!!!
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tbh...it is smart to 'build/mod' an RB with a long term future goal in mind. So buy the parts and do the mods that will achieve that goal as you go...this may take 2 to 5 years, depending on cash flow etc
I guess I'm trying to say that if you have to drive around with a built motor and a standard turbo for a few months till you can afford the next step, then thats what you do.
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Ok then its a plug and loom check like GTSBoy said.
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Have you tried a reset yet? Disconnect the battery, headlights or brakes on etc then power up again......a long shot but maybe worth a try?
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16 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:
I wasn't going mention this because I'm not trying to start internet arguments, but in the spirit of keeping SAU as a source of truth -
This isn't really what happens, in the scenario of a large change in throttle opening, the change in pressure causes the fuel to be forced onto the fuel film on the port wall causing the fuel film to grow momentarily. This causes the car to momentarily lean out. This is why transient throttle enrichment exists to inject extra fuel so the car doesn't lean out on tip in.
Single or split spray pattern doesn't matter because it's the pressure change that is forcing the fuel onto the port wall/fuel film.
If your curious about it, you can look at Motec M1 training material as that series of ECU allow for fuel film modelling.
yeah, I was generalising....if you do a search there is probably a plethora of detailed documents out there explaining each nanosecond of a combustion cycle. I probably could have cut and pasted any one of them for crystal clear precision...but was lazy and cbf'd 😂
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10 minutes ago, Murray_Calavera said:
You realise that the majority of the time the injector is firing, it's spraying onto the back of a closed valve right?
Are you trying to improve your emissions at idle?
I can guarantee that your transient response will not be improved by using a spilt spray injector.
Its also spraying when there is a rush of cool boosted air coming in, so immediate atomisation and swirl dispersal.
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You will need to double down on the wiring. Trace from source to application renewing dodgy connections. Unwrap all insulation tape as you go, try to simplify the whole loom by removing as many solder etc connections as you can. I have examples of wires that had 5 solder connections in under 30cm of length. I also have examples of wiring that went from 8 to 6 gauge to 4 gauge then back to 8. Heatshrink, connectors, crimping tools, and an airgun will be your friend. Get some split tube and/or spiral wrap to help tidy up once done.
What you are doing is building in reliability while eliminating under dash fire risk.
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Steering wheel strip
in General Maintenance
Posted
Getting it sent overseas isn't a problem....the business that did mine has been doing it for a while now and I haven't heard of any negative issues.