airbox

cheers mate!

does anyone know if the safc holds its values if the battery is disconnected or if it is unplugged? Or do I have to have it set up again if power is disturbed? thanks

can anyone tell me what offset I need to fit a series 1 rsv with gtst brakes fitted please? I had to put 6mm spacers on the front so the original 16" wheels would fit. cheers

it is an SAFC version1. It has 2 grounds and I have done them like you say. The airflow signal wire I cut and used connectors to join it to the SAFC as you say. Thanks for your help

thanks mate. I have wired it up now as per the SAFC instructions. I used the power supply that they suggested which is pin 67 which according to your pinout diagram is the control unit power supply and the earth I used is pin 55 which calls it the MAFS ground. Hopefully I have done it correctly!! I haven't plugged in the SAFC yet and the airflow signal I have left connected via a bullet (well spade actually) connector. I am hoping to get it set up tomorrow so all I have to do is plug in the SAFC and join the airflow connection to it.

checked and I did have the ground and airflow the wrong way. It is airflow-orange/blue and ground-white/blue. Also the rpm wire is blue/white and not black/white like in your diagram. That is if B=black and L=blue. Must be the right one though as it is in that pin position

The instructions are telling me the power is pin 67 and the ground is 55. I have to connect the grounds from the SAFC to 55 and they have to be the right way round and 1cm apart

excellent, thanks very much. I shall recheck as I think the ground and airflow I think I have got the wrong way round and the rpm I need to check. As long as L means blue I think I have the rest right!

I need some help please. I am fitting an SAFC to my series1 stagea awd. I have downloaded the instructions for fitting it but before I commit myself to baring wires etc I was hoping that someone could confirm I have the right wires! Is this right? The wiring colours at the ecu are: power-black/white ground-orange/blue air flow-white/blue throttle-red/blue rpm-blue/white Cheers

I have got a depo oil pressure gauge and sender on the way, a bit starwars for my liking but it'll do what I want, will mount it in the centre top right air vent, already fitted r32gtr gauges below the aircon but they are boost, oil temp and volts.

yes light comes on with ignition

what oil pressure does the rb25det run at, at tickover and through the revs please if anyone knows? I have f**ked my engine by having a blocked oil strainer, (don't ask, long story!) but at no time did the oil warning light come on. I am getting a replacement engine fitted and thought of fitting either a depo gauge with a settable alarm on it or a higher pressure oil switch like this http://automech-uk.c...uemart&Itemid=1 This is the cheapest option and at least the light would work then when there is still enough pressure to save big ends and main bearings etc. Or is the tickover lower than that? I do not want to be caught out like that again. Some vehicles have the oil warning light fitted to a oil level switch which is totally useless in my opinion as you could have a full sump and no oil pressure!!

Been thinking about a boost controller for a while but couldn't make up my mind which way to go, electronic expensive or cheap manual. The cheap manual ones work on a ball and spring and although I have heard good reports on them I didn't like the way they operate by suppressing the pressure to the wastegate rather than bleeding it off as the standard set up. I had tried to just bypass the solenoid but that gave me too much boost and spiky too, so I thought if I bought an adjustable valve and just bled a bit more off than the solenoid does I would get as much boost as I wanted. As standard with the solenoid shut and no air bleeding off then the wastegate opens at 3 to 5 psi, solenoid open and you get 7 psi. This is all confirmed with my boost guage, which although is only a r32gtr one, seems to read right. So I bought one of these off ebay for £18 I had to change one of the male connectors to the bottom and blank off the hole. I then modified the original solenoid bracket and mounted the new valve to it. I first tried with a full turn out and that gave me about 10 or 11psi, so screwed it in to just over half a turn out and that gave me about 8 and seems to be nice and steady with no spikes or anything. Very pleased with it, nice and cheap and only took an afternoon pottering to fit.

sorry mate, I should have said.... I am in the UK!!!!

it's easier I reckon cos I would just replace the solenoid with the bleed valve, nothing else. start off with it closed for 5psi and crack it open a bit at a time until I get about 9psi. The turbotech one is more expensive and you are also changing the Tee piece and if as you say it works like a ball and spring type one, then the operation is different to standard where air is bled away to keep the pressure at the actuator down. I'll let you know how I get on!!

cheers, I think I will look for an r32 actuator and do away with the solenoid. In the meantime I think I will just bypass the solenoid with one of these. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brass-lockable-2-port-bleed-valve-Boost-Control-/270583539142?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f000925c6 and start off with it virually closed until I get to about 9 or 10psi. Seems easier than the turbotech and no replacing the Tee either. What I am going to do with the solenoid signal is just for a bit of bling. Solenoid signal to a relay, relay turning on and off one of these. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Universal-12-Volt-Windscreen-Washer-Pump-Water-Bottle-/270509676174?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efba2168e and running to a atomiser jet ( spray can nozzle ) firing up into the r34gtt intercooler That I have fitted. Just need to find a space for the bottle. Should only come on when the high boost mode would be on!!

cheers, have already done the earthing mod about a year ago. Am hitting about 7psi now and that is with a supposed r33gtst actuator that I got off a spare turbo I bought.. I know the gtst actuator is meant to be higher spring rate to achieve more boost but I can't see it made any difference to the standard stagea one. I tried to just join the hoses that go to the solenoid together but that gave me big spiky boost so I reckon that if I restrict the airflow to just above what flows through the solenoid then I should get a bit more boost. If I had a proper 10psi actuator then I wouldn't need the solenoid at all as there would be no need to bleed any air off.

i have been thinking about giving the car a mild boost by bypassing the solenoid with an adjustable bleed valve or the other option is to try and drill out the solenoid by 1mm or so to increase the bleed off slightly. Has anyone tried this way? Seems a simple cheap way of increasing boost to me.

I have just done my brake upgrade. late '96 early '97 stagea rs4. Standard 16" wheels Brakes used were off a '96 r33gtst. I bought new r33gtst discs and pads all round. rear brakes. 2 pot sumitomos caliper bolts were from the sumitomos and were the same as the stagea's rear braided r33gtst hoses straight onto the caliper. disc backing plate had to be cut to fit the bigger disc. Wheel fitted and good clearance. front brakes. 4 pot sumitomos caliper mounting bolts are 12mm but the stagea fitment holes are 14mm ( as are the stagea caliper bolts ) They are also too short. 4 new longer 12mm bolts A length of 14mm OD steel pipe with a 1mm wall thickness, cut to size to sleeve the 12mm bolts. r33gtst braided line to a made up hard pipe to the caliper the standard wheel will foul on the caliper so I used 6mm spacers and that gave nice clearance. The standard wheel studs will now only give about 5 1/2 turns whereas before there were 10. I am not completely happy with this so have got some longer studs and will replace them as soon as I get a couple of correct nuts to pull them on with. at the moment I have used a bit of threadlock ( hope I can undo them now!!) Going to try and do it like the link below as I don't want to disturb my new brake lines if I can help it!! Don't see why taking the caliper and disc off will help anyway using this method, unless the caliper covers the cutaway to remove the stud. http://www.ehow.com/video_2328000_replace-wheel-studs.html

I did the solonoid mod on my series1 stagea. Before I did that I just bypassed the solonoid by joining the two pipes together using a 5mm connector. Loads of boost but spiky and the car didn't really like it so I reckon that the solonoid itself must have a restriction in it even when it is open. I reckon that if I had tried a 3mm connector the boost might have been a bit less spiky and more controllable but in the end I just plumbed it back into the solonoid and earthed it so it is open all the time. I suppose the next best thing would be to get a boost controller but which one? A manual boost controller seems to work by limiting the pressure on the waste gate actuator with a ball spring valve whereas electonic ones work by bleeding air away from the wastegate thus increasing boost and they open and close very quickly to keep the boost at the right level. Not sure which is the best method.

cheers, hopefully it will be ok. I could just try test the calipers for fitment without the pads, should clear the original disc

I have now bought my replacement calipers from off a r33gtst, sumitomo 4 pots ( front ) ans sumitomo 2 pots (rear). I shall get the gtst discs front and back next. I have a question, will these calipers and discs fit with the standard 16" wheels? Series1 stagea. I hope so!!!!

this is what happens under the sponges

cheers for that mate. Pics from the other side of the caliper would be a bit more use though!!

been thinking!! and now think that most of the sealing is done between the banjo and the copper washers and not up from the threads. I could always wrap a bit of ptfe tape round the thread to make sure of the seal there.