airbox

I just wondered as it is not a machined surface.

cheers for that. On the rear ones does it get a good seal without flattening the top face?

will the banjo bolt go straight onto the rear gtst calipers after either being shortened a bit or the flared bit removed from inside? Is the top flat enough to get a good seal with the copper washers or should I try and get it milled down ( or whatever it's called) so that there is more of a flat?

found this site. http://justskylines.com/skyline/knowledgeb...ake_setups.aspx Useful info on there! I have decided to go with r32gtr/r33gtst brake set up. That should fit under my stock 16" wheels, easier to get spacers if I want to up to 324mm discs and more available than r34gtt 310mm calipers so easier to source ( already done, just gotta save up!!) and a lot cheaper!!

good idea, I'll keep my eye out but they are pretty rare round here!!!

will the r34gtt discs and calipers fit under the standard 16" wheel?

just bought some 2 pot rear calipers off a r33gtst for my series1 stagea, will get discs and pads next and then fit them. that's the back sorted then!! At the front I have decided to go for either the r34gtt or the r33gtst calipers and discs. I am running the standard 16" wheels. Will the 310mm r34gtt discs and calipers fit under this wheel or will I have to go with the 296mm r33gtst discs and calipers?

I have just got some 2 pot r33gtst rear calipers to get rid of my sticky old sliding ones. I want to at some time get r33gtst ( or 34gtt if they will fit straight in with the standard 16" wheel) front calipers. Will I need to change the master cylinder then as I will have twice as much piston area or so? The backs I can probably live with even though that will be doubled too so the braking will not be at such pressure but not the fronts. Is the r33gtst master cylinder different to the stagea series1 one?

I have managed to get a pair of ecr33 r33gtst rear calipers at a good price off ebay. They haven't turned up yet but I have a few questions. They are the 2 pot ones. Are these calipers made from aluminium? To do a seal change on them, do you need to split the calipers? I understand ( correct me if this is wrong please) that stagea rear discs are 280mm and the r33gtst ones are 296mm? The stagea rear discs are vented, are the gtst ones or are they just one solid disc? I shall try and keep my standard ones going until I have refurbed and painted the gtst ones and saved up for more discs and pads!!

yes that is what was happening, even on steepish ( sort of ) inclines and the wheels were hot. I will keep checking it after every drive cos I am paranoid about it now!!!! I'll look out for a replacement set of calipers. I would like to upgrade but money says I'll have to stick with stock items, just hope the ones I buy are better than mine, always a risk.

had another look today, passenger side rear wheel turned easily with only slight scraping of the pads. driver's side ( the red hot one last night ) I could just about turn it. I regreased the pins and around the contact points etc and pumped the piston out and it pushed back in nice and easy, not quite by hand but nearly on the passenger side. On the driver's side I did the same but pumped the piston out, took the rubber boot off. the piston was very dry and had rusty score marks on it. I wet and dried what I could, using brake fluid as a lubricant, then cleaned it off, put brake fluid on the piston and pushed it back in ( not by hand ). I then pumed it back out and repeated the process. Now I could push the piston all the way back in by hand, pumped it out and pushed it back in again by hand. I then kept the piston in and bled that caliper. Then pumped it back out and pushed it back in again by hand. Put the boot back on, clip is fiddly, then reassembled everything. Put the wheels back on and pumped the brakes a few times. Both wheels now turn with minimal scraping of the pads. Hopefully that is it sorted for now. I think I should really replace the calipers with some newer better condition ones before it happens again!!!

rotors wre the same and the caliper carrier is clear and the caliper itself slides so I can't see that as the problem. It may just be the pistons are too stiff, I'll try recleaning and greasing them today but it seems odd that they are both doing it.

As I said before, that is exactly what I have done with the handbrake. It is backed right off and the shoes are clear of the drum and I haven't used it since. It is NOT the handbrake, the calipers are binding on. I'll give it another free-up this morning but I know that the calipers slide ok and the pistons go back fairly easily. It is happening on both sides which is the odd bit, it's almost like the pressure to the rear brakes is not being relieved when I take my foot off the brakes but the front brakes are fine. that is why I was thinking of maybe the ABS unit being duff or something. I suppose I'll have to try replacement calipers first just to make sure it isn't them. It's a pain in the arse cos it's my only transport.

no it is definately not the handbrake. As I said I have adjusted the handbrake so that the shoes are not making contact with the drum at all and I haven't touched the handbrake since I put the new discs on. i just feel it isn't the calipers as they are both hot.

I have a problem with my rear brakes which is baffling me. Brand new discs and pads, brake pistons go back easily by hand ( just), caliper pins all greased and slide easily, brakes bled. I came home from work today, 5 miles, braked maybe half a dozen times, when I got out I could smell the heat and the discs were literally glowing red!!!! I must be driving with the rear brakes on all the time, they are not letting off. It is definately not the handbrake cos I haven't used it since putting on the discs and it is adjusted to not rub. Heat was also the reason the last discs cracked so it is not new but I want to sort it before I f**k these discs. I am tempted to buy replacement ( the same ) calipers but I am not convinced it is them cos it is on both sides. There is one brake line which runs to the rear and then it splits to each wheel, not sure how the ABS works out which wheel is which, but I am thinking could it be this splitter unit or maybe the one in the bonnet, ( think the ABS unit) that seperates the fluid to the front and rear and has electrical doobries on it. The front brakes are fine. Any help anyone please!!

my series 1 rear discs are quite worn and lipped causing drag and heat. I need to replace them but don't really want to replace the calipers as money is a bit tight. Which discs off which model fit? I don't mind if I need to get them trimmed down a bit as that would be cheap to do!!!

It's alright, it's come back!!

can't see my pic any more. Don't know why??????

all guages are working, I just need to fit the oil temp sensor, which I have, but am waiting until i fit an oil filter relocation kit. It was pretty straightforward to fit once I had worked out the wiring, had to file the stagea cage a bit and cut off the lugs which were attached to the guages.

I fitted the guages out of a r32gtr so it looks standard.

have you checked that the boost sender unit is connected to the intake plenum? With the ignition on the guage will read atmospheric pressure and go to 0 mmhg, if it isn't plumbed into the intake plenum with a pressure/vacuum hose then it will not see anything. If it has fallen off then you will also need to check that the intake plenum is not open to atmosphere. I should think the motor would run pretty rough if this is the case so I would think that the sender unit must be faulty

I fitted an smic off an R34GTT complete with it's own intake shroud, straight swap, had a bit of difficulty attaching the plastic inner wheel lining due to the extra height. That was until it blew off cos of the plastic panel attachers being broken, it rubbed on the wheel for a minute or so, got a bit hot and warped and now it fits perfectly!!!! Can't say I notice a huge difference, a bit more urgent at the top end. I don't want to go bigger as I find the lag as it changes up bad enough as it is!! Good thread Rob. Not meaning to be rude but that window could do with a lick of paint!!!

thanks kiwi. I have been assured that it is the right one, so managed to squeeze it on. The D clamps did up ok in the end although they are right on the corner. The droplinks are splayed out at an angle which I don't think is very good as the bushes where it goes through the lower suspension arm are not square so have to be done up tight to take out the play. The bush which attaches the linkarm to the roll bar is also under more strain than I think is good too. It works ok and has stiffened up the rear but how long it will last before the bushes are stuffed and I have to put the original one back on I have no idea. The picture on about page 3 of this thread of SK's bar shows the droplinks at about the same angle as mine are

MIA? In the army is he? Well, can anyone help with the fitting of the D clamps? I see other people have had difficulty fitting them. It is a bit like trying to squeeze on a pair of size 8 shoes when you are a size 10!!

Hi SK can you give me some advice please. I have just bought a Whiteline rear 22mm solid antiroll bar for my series1 rs4. I see from you picture that the link arms are forced out at an angle so that answers one question. The other is that my D clamps holes in the subframe are too far apart for the bar, causing them to be on the bend of the bar. How did you fit them? I am finding that the bushes are being forced open by the bend of the bar and the D clamp holes won't line up. It is as though the bar is too short and needs to be about 3cm longer. It is the correct bar according to the code written on it. Cheers, Dave