Revhead

Like hell... I'm vagitarian all the way

I'm pretty out of practice so a stock Gixxer should do/scare me for a while, but it would be wrong of me not to support the aftermarket parts industry. I reckon exhaust, PC3, screen and a centre stand (ok maybe not the last one) should satisfy the requirements for the first round of mods Exhaust + PC3 = 10hp or so apparently.

Did someone say bikes?

zomg Dan

Yeah Noel's bar has a different lower section to the one I posted. Both are standard Nissan bars, they're just different spec levels (factory body kit or lack thereof).

Agreed, I'm not a fan of them with the centre piece intact. Cut it out and it changes the look of them completely.

Andy? lol Nah it's a factory option, I've heard it referred to as the "Type M" bar but have never really managed to get a straight answer on its proper name. Either way it's a factory Nissan bar.

Noel, this is the one I was trying to tell you about a week or so about at dinner... it's the same as yours from about the indicators up, but doesn't curve inwards quite as much as yours. This is my old car: And this is what it looks like without the centre section removed (before I had my cooler): FYI the opening is a perfect fit for a 600x300 core

My Dad used to build/maintain diesel trains years ago. He reckons you could crawl through the bores.The ones he used to work on were the long-distance haulage ones, and had (from memory) twin turbo, supercharged 200 litre V12 or V16 diesels, making around 5000hp and something ridiculous like 30,000Nm. These days they're measured in MW (1000kW = 1 MW) lol... took 10 minutes to start because the flywheel weighed 11ty billion tons, idled at 50 rpm and redlined at 900rpm or something.

Great news to hear you got it back!! It'll cost you a few dollars but I would immediately have the locks changed on the ignition, both doors and the boot, and have a new alarm installed. You don't know whether they've made copies of the keys, recoded remotes or done anything to the security of the car. Have the whole car checked over with a microscope. Send them the bill or add the costs to the lawsuit or insurance claim as appropriate, just get it done. Gratuitous plug ahead... If you don't already have someone you trust to sort out the alarm, Chris Rogers from Audio Express will be able to help you, he's absolutely trustworthy and will come to you - the car doesn't have to leave your yard. He's worked on approximately 11ty billion Skylines too so knows them inside out, and is an SAU Qld club sponsor. Please keep us updated, I personally would love to see the person/s responsible for this ridiculous situation get raped by the legal system. And yes, curiosity has managed to get the better of me, can someone please PM me some details on the yard?

Not sure what you mean by a "saragent vin" (surrogate?) but if they're doing something dodgy with VINs from another chassis, that's farked. Get the numbers and have it checked out (REVS, any other agency you can think of) straight away. If they didn't get a roadworthy done when you bought it, the car would not have had a legit safety cert, and therefore it was illegal to sell or advertise for sale. If I were you, I'd be demanding the car back IMMEDIATELY, and tell them that you'll take it elsewhere to have it checked over and have repairs carried out as necessary at their expense. It's certainly a lot better for them than having the Office of Fair Trading (or ACA) asking questions about why/how they sold a car without a safety cert, and potentially botched VINs.

If you do eventually get hold of the yard I'd be mentioning things like 'police', 'theft', and 'lawyers' if you haven't already (though I'm guessing you have). It's completely unacceptable for them to not even know where your car is, and ridiculous that the guy who's "gone on holidays" didn't tell anyone or make a note anywhere. If it were my business and something like this happened, I'd be bending over backwards to fix it... it's disturbing that they seem to be doing the exact opposite. As has been mentioned, file a police report. At the very least this will give you a report number (or case # or whatever), which you can use with insurance if required, or to chase up with the police at a later date. I don't know if they're likely to give a toss but it might also be worth contacting your insurance company and having them chase it up - as I said they may not care or want to be involved, but it'd be a hell of a lot cheaper for them to do some chasing than to pay out on a theft claim. Exactly. Something doesn't add up here.

Damn, that really sucks... I'll keep an eye out for it! It sounds like either something dodgy is happening, or this is possibly the worst customer service I have ever heard of. This might sound sexist, but have you tried taking a (preferably older) guy with you? Some places still treat women like idiots, and won't take you seriously until a guy starts doing the talking. Might be worth a go? *puts on mod hat* Please keep business name/s to PM - I know none have been mentioned yet but the question has been asked, just getting in first

Personally I'd just be happy that you've won this case - the last thing you need is a mark against your name (which you probably already have to an extent). Regardless of how right you were, the officer in question probably sees what's happened as him being victimised by an angry hoon for just trying to do his job, which isn't going to make him go easy on you... it'll just make him more careful. If you do pursue this further, be prepared to accept the backlash, and don't be under the illusion that harassment lawsuits will get people off your back. TT/ACA will probably only show interest if they can turn it into another hoon story. The market they generally aim for would just see another 'hoon' getting what's coming to him unfortunately, so my advice would be to think and tread very carefully if you follow that path. It could work very well for you, or it could blow up in your face. Something to think about... I don't mean to sound negative, just make sure you know exactly what you're doing.

Woohoo, good to hear that society isn't completely devoid of common sense

Eww you gave Liz a golden shower... wtf do you get up to in New South Welshville?

Hmm might be interesting, I'd be keen to see it if/when it's set up.I've long wondered about how they'd go with a Vortech-style blower on the side though - simple exhaust, no lag and can be set to make good boost from very low rpm

Street's closed pizza boy, find another way around

Indeed.Let me know when you've got the nawz controller hooked up, I can put you in touch with a guy that can get you two big bottles, and he can have them by tonight.

Isaac

lol no probs I think the factory climate control system relies on the ECU somewhat too, and with a digital (ie non-mechanical) dash it's always worth checking if your new ECU will run it. The last thing you want is to be forced to run the factory ECU alongside your shiny new one, just so you can get the dash working.

Unless they've changed a lot in the last 18 months or so, both Link and Wolf (and Microtech etc) tend to be racing ECUs - they will get your car running, but lack some of the things that make a car nice to drive day-to-day. Things like cold start, idle control (when the aircon cuts in, in particular), variable cam timing control etc, and they generally have a lower mapping resolution too.

I haven't looked at PFC prices lately but they've recently gone out of production, which would likely be pushing up the prices. Putting myself in your shoes, I'd go the Haltech. It'll do more, you can guarantee it'll expand to suit whatever you do to the car later, there's a plugin version available now so you don't have to cut the loom... and, if the prices are getting pretty similar now, there's no reason not to go for the technically better option, and one that has manufacturer support for the forseeable future. Doooo eeeeeet

Yeah the biggest killer of them afaik is backfiring. The wire is pretty thin and it just breaks. That said, I replaced mine once in the whole time I owned my car, and that was to swap in a bigger one There's no denying the Haltech does a lot more, it just depends on whether you can justify the extra expense. I was more than happy with my PFC though, the results were more than acceptable and cost a lot less than a Haltech, particularly given that, at the time, the only other available plugin was the Wolf3D which I felt didn't suit my needs.The moment you want to start looking at logging or telemetry , you'll need a Haltech/Motec/Autronic etc

I made 307rwkW with a PFC without a problem, which would have easily been > 500hp at the crank. Basically, as long as it's capable of running the injectors/coils and recognising the sensors you have, you can make as much power as you want. I dunno how big you can go in the injectors with either ECU before it can't run them quickly enough to fuel properly at idle but I certainly didn't have a problem with it.