sneakey pete
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Posts posted by sneakey pete
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That kit only has a single fitting for feed. Y pipe is in the tank.
If, for some reason, you must have a twin feed rail (see topic on that from a few days ago also) run a -8 feed and Y pipe it into -6 in the bay. -
Proper way to do it would be to run hard lines TBH, less risk with debris strikes from under the car.
Though as said I was lazy and it turned out pretty damn good so i wasn't too worried.
4 hours ago, WantGTR said:Depends what you want to do.
I have a 8an feed and return. I don't think twin feed is necessary.
Given the guy with the same turbos is only making 437kw i'd say -8's not needed in this case.
people have made 400kw on stock lines with E85 and -6 is something like 50% bigger compared to that -
You don't need twin feeds.
Distance isn't even 4.5m as the tank isn't at the back of the car and the rail isn't at the front.
best way to do it is to modify and use the Hicas lines as they're right there, or you can do what i did and be dodgy and run the -6 lines in the old brackets for that, they fit right in and tuck up really well actually.
I think i used 9m of hose and i also got a water feed for the turbo and a power steering line out of it. -
Tomei also sells ARMS turbos...
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i really need to get my iwg properly tuned...
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Could someone do a summary?
Don't have the connectivity in camp to run video at the moment
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On 11/30/2018 at 4:39 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
firmware, just bring the ECU back to haltech.. I believe they also delete a resistor on the ECU too, but when I got it done for a customer it was free
Sounds like a hardware update to me. Good to see they're able to update previous models. They are a pretty good option for your typical mild street upgrades etc.
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8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Of course they're still relevant, the later firmware allows you to run a flex sensor directly into it and with the expansion harness you're able to do a bit more without the need of installing an I/O expansion box.
A few limitations of the Platinum are lack of support DBW, inability to run any style of trigger/crank/cam kit, no rolling anti-lag, no traction control, strain gauge input for sequential or dog boxes etc.
I would still use it, but brand new the price point between that and the Elite, one would jump onto the Elite.
Was it a firmware update or hardware update?
Certainly a good plug and play option for a non extreme car, easy enough to get tuned aswell
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honestly i think the most interesting comparision would be to the 9180, in terms of it having a smaller rear end and all of the various improvements you get from that (and disavantages in flow capacity)
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So.. anyone want to buy 1.5 8374s?
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When you say on vs off, do you mean activated vs not activated? or optimal vs sitting at base conditions?
Its still a slightly misleading comparison as your off isn't going to be as optimized as a normal dumb cam.
Still, I wants it. -
Tripple webbers will sound better than pretty much anything.
And you won't get a speeding ticket doing it.-
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3 hours ago, blind_elk said:
Ok, I give up for now. Its like the diff isn't tilting down enough to slide under the pinion mount frame. But I have to get it out now because the existing bushes came out in several pieces, with the shell still stuck in place.
Can someone email me the appropriate page from the manual so I can see how it all fits together. ([email protected])
entire manual can be had here i think
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I don't know about everyone else, but My car spends a crap load of time below the full boost threshold, as I don't think i'd have my licence or car for long if i was driving around at full boost everywhere. While i certainly think that there's an element of chasing the impossible here, the higher compression ratio is going to give a noticeable improvement to every day driving of the car.
In terms of not running E85, every car/engine/tune combo is going to be different however my 9.5:1 stroker motor has no issue with 20PSI on 98 and that's with 260 cams so nothing silly, so its not all doom and gloom. Obviously if you did something like 12:1 you'd have problems on 98 but I think even on E85 you'd be running into chamber design issues there anyway
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Minimum 10:1.
Bear in mind, with a higher CR you're going to be making more power off boost therefor will accelerate quicker therefor will get higher in the rev range quicker therefor will have more gas going through the engine and more boost sooner.
Its one of those "dyno charts don't tell the full story" situations, in my opinion. -
If you want to explode one i could do you a good deal on my munted unit ?
13 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:Wouldn't have done this work except I have the E85 20klm away now
If you don't mind me asking, which servo?
For future road trip planning purposes... -
Did you detatch the AWD pump from the top of the diff? Because that will throw a spanner in the works if its still bolted onto the top.
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You want to spend 1500 bucks to let you use a fuel that's 20c a liter cheaper... in other words you need to buy 7500L of fuel to make it worth while, which means assuming you're getting 10L/100km thats 75000km to make it worth while. Doesn't make sense to me
And you have less power and would actually have slightly worse fuel economy that would mean it'd take even more km to break even.
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I don't see why it couldn't be done; the ppg sequential does it so physical space shouldn't be an issue (unless there's something with synchros vs dog engagement for space?)
Regarding ratios, bear in mind the 34 is made for 3.9 diffs, so you'd want to keep the overdrive .757 and not .79 of the 34. (personally i'd prefer even a little lower, as I have a 2.9 and running E85, however obviously if it was to get done there'd probably have to be only one set standardized on)
However, in reality i suppose something like the OS-88 ratios wouldn't really be ideal for a manually shifted box and something like the 34 ones would be, just use 2nd to launch.
I'd be very interested in one if the price/performance ratios match up, so let me know how you go.
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2 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:
Hey mate. I asked around and actually rang Nissan to ask. They said with lowered suspension and bigger wheels with wide tires for GTR's anything from -2 to -3 rear front and rear is relatively "normal" and fine to drive.
It makes me wonder how some of the Stance Nation guys can have up to -7 camber. Looks ridiculous and drives like crap.
adjustable arms, change the length of them changes the geometry
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There was a guy on one of the GTR groups looking into it start of last year, however progress had been slow and last I heard its now a sequential with a price tag to match.
Not particurally interested in a sequential, but i'd love a 6 speed manual in the standard housing with OS-88 option 2 ratios;
2.890, 1.981, 1.468, 1.174, 1.000, 0.757
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There's probably some sort of deep seated problem if you have a 10mm track misalignment...
Run 2.5 front 1.5 rear on mine, seems decent on the the track but not at the expense of being silly for the road. Could probably add another half to both though
To answer the title of the post though, generally speaking skylines are lowered, and doing so will generally give an increase of negative camber
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What
compressorturbine wheel are they using? -
Don't forget caltex had/has a different price structure where it was constantly at 'whatever 91 is minus 10 cents'
i wonder if they were actually making money on it.
Tomei RB28 VS Spool RB29
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
spool 79mm here.
Did have issues with oil squirter clearances though unsure if it was specific to the 79mm or just a general issue, ordered kit through the engine builder so wasn't too involved but also was their responsibility to fix so that was a win.
Apart from that its pretty damn good, though presumably will wear out faster than a 77.7 etc.