sneakey pete

From Memory it physically clashes with the engine mount bracket when you try spin it out as it has an offset in it. Theoretically you could support the engine and remove the mount to do it though.

1:The water feed on the RB comes out of the block under cylinder 5. The T above the turbos is the return and actually returns it to 2 locations, the top radiator hose and also back around into the underside of the plenum. I believe its got something to do with balancing for the thermostat not being open perhaps? Either way you could just feed it straight back into there, but a lot of people just feed it back only to the radiator hose around the front of the cam covers and delete the entire rear line with no issues. 2: If possible, yes. Feed should be lower, return higher, and side to side. However if you can't do any of these things then try do as much as you can. Shouldn't be to much of an issue with a RB in a R chassis though.

i'd add/expand to the not making meets one to being prepared for it to be off the road long enough that you buy a second 'fun' car to use during that time. Which of course presumes some of the other points about 2 minute noodles and no significant others taken to the extreme

Didn't catch the R part. Wholeheartedly agree with the rest though.

I doubt its even that much. We had 3 33's with a front mount and and exhaust all put up 180rwkw at a dyno day, with a standard exhaust and side-mount i'd wager its closer to 170

Generally people are using custom Pistons I think, places like CP would have done them enough that it wouldn't be a major delay to get them, nothing new would need to be designed i'd have thought. They aren't off the shelf in terms of stock but the design would be so to speak? 10:1 seems like a good spot, i did 9.5:1 and kind of regret not going that little bit further.

I ended up going nuts and running 200 series -3 fittings there as the tube i had was breaking down and giving me boost controller issues, or so I thought. Turns out the wires on the MAC solenoid plug had got hot and broken... Oh well i know it really won't leak now though.

Agree with what you're saying re the fact that metric pipe threads are not a thing, but in the end, it is a M8x1.0 thread. And Speedflow makes a fitting for it so it can't be that rare of a thing: https://www.redlineauto.com.au/p-2547-speedflow-349-04-m8-x-10-to-4-male.aspx For what its worth Iv'e had one in there for a while now, leak tested to 30PSI no issues, doesn't seem to back out at all (steel fitting in aluminium probably helps there). If you're that worried put some sealant on there.

Pretty sure its metric, did it over Christmas. Maybe M8? Don't have the reference catalog here but it was pretty much the only option in metric for a -3 male fitting for that thread size. Edit: well, for an 8374, maybe its different on the smaller ones? I distinctly remember how odd it was that my USA designed turbo had metric threads and the Australian Designed Turbostmart wastegate had imperial threads.

Ah I must have been getting mixed up with a different build then

I got told 3-5 weeks back at the start of June so maybe i'll get mine before you get yours... CAR97 and CAR36 calipers with 365/335 rotors however. Still want to run the 17's

Will be interested in seeing how the IAT's hold up if you've still got the 76 in there?

indeed... https://www.turbosmart.com/product/bov-blanking-plate-for-borg-warner-efr-kkk-and-ecoboost-turbochargers/

In this case by factory/OEM I think that's referring to the standard EFR integrated BOV, not the Nissan one. I don't think you can block off the EFR one with a coke can.

Genuine question, but what sort of advancements have we made since then that would actually do that?

Many people hear single is best, think its a lot of parroted tripe, start buying high power twins stuff, but do their own research and then go single... I'm honestly interested in what info you found? Skeptical, yes, but interested.

In Queensland you can apply for a moderately powered vehicle exemption for a un modified car. Putting a DET engine minus turbo into a GT is actually illegal to drive on your P's and you won't get an exemption for it. Putting a full DET engine into a GT same deal. The only turbo skylines you can get exemptions for as I understand it is R32 Gtst and R33 gtst. Again, doing a turbo engine into a non turbo one, no exemption as its modified. So as others have said, buy a shitbox for the next 3 years, save your money and buy a GTT. they come with all the other good bits anyway

No, you can't.

Make sure its wired with big enough wiring to suit, we recorded up to 60A draw from it at high loads.

Out of interest, what RPM does everyone set theirs to? I can't actually recall ever finding out what the factory setting is and subtracting 25% from it. Need to set it up on mine properly, currently rely on the 'don't get on it with the ac on' method

Pretty sure the older style ones have inbuilt controls that have a sort of boot up cycle so pulsing the input to them is actually counter productive. Newer ones with actual CANbus input are available but as said there's no info about their control systems.

ID1000's will not outflow a single -6 line, though i presume with Nitros you'll be upgrading injectors? -6 can feed my 1300cc's with no issues.

See post from September last year in the EFR thread about my encounter with this issue... It is worth noting that I did do a PB at QR with the issue also. turbo was to the point where you could move it a few mm at that point. drove home too with no issues

9.5 with 98 is possible, as the OP said he's done it, i've also done it. 260*11 cams probably helps. but also its not making anywhere near the maximum possible power for the setup on 98 either. Honestly, i'd question how often you'd actually need the ability to run 98 on it, and if its worth actually worrying about? just turn the boost waaay down for 98, and go for gold with 10:1 would be my strategy, though its still an interesting question to hear answers on.

Will see what the tuner says then i guess. Or turn the boost up to 30psi...