sneakey pete

He's been out of the game for a few years now mate

So they've finally changed the price from the 139.9 that it had been at for the last 2-3 years? haven't been near a pump since the end of August

Also there's a big Gtx2860/63/67 thread where some people have results

The EFR with BoV enabled has a pretty good ratio of noise to not sounding like a dick, for me at least ?

2980 on ebay without specials, best of the bunch. Have found one for 2350 out of the states, but that's before shipping gst customs etc.

Who's the cheapest seller at the moment, since BW doesn't seem to sell any parts to fix these with?

Yeah its been a struggle. Has been in all of 12 months and 6-7000km and 2 track days. I do wonder if bolts loosening have accelerated the process. Previous gasket i took off (after probably only 2000km) looked perfectly fine. Pretty sure this only blew out at the 2 sessions i got in at QR. The missing side of the gasket was on the looser side (nuts on studs instead of bolts). Also I wonder if it was something with the tune also that may have not helped, unfortnatly my logging wasn't setup properly so I don't really have any useful info. Cruise wise EGT's aren't really that high for my setup currently as there hasn't been any setup completed on a wideband cruise, so thats probably not going to be it.

Welp.... f**k. Seems like the gasket has gone through or at least into the inlet to the turbine. Not yet removed manifold but i'm expecting to find chunks of gasket sitting in it. What are my options now?

Yeah there certainly could be a failure of the probe (the probe could even be what's gone into the turbine?), however i'm 99% sure it wasn't the filter as I had it off to inspect. Flying visit home this Friday to take care of some other stuff might try get the turbo out at least to assess damage and get more time to figure out out to fix whatever it is, see what happens

Looked at doing it with my 8374 seemed impractical. That was in a R32, looks like above is a R31? and it has a massively larger amount of room. Due to constraints of strut tower we couldn't get the turbo anywhere near low or back enough to make it work, at least without ditching AC what are you doing for compressor inlet and exit? looks like its close to the AC exit connection for the inlet and the strut tower for the compressor outlet

Didn't notice anything different with mine. I'd suggest checking that everything is sealed properly and its not a leak.

Yeah i'm not that dodgy. leading thought in my mind is gasket failed and part of it went into turbo? Note I have OEM gaskets, are they a nono? What do people use? (also for the split T4 gasket while is out) The only thing in my mind is that it doesn't really explain why the EGT's on that cylinder are 250C lower.

Had something come off and go through my turbine wheel at the track yesterday. turbo was making that wonderful turbo scraping noise, couldn't rotate it by hand forward, went back and it unbound and would then spin freely, drive, make boost etc. Rather odd. Also sounds like i have a manifold gasket leak and the EGT's on cylinder 1 are sitting at 150ish instead of 4-500ish at cruise. So NFI what has happened. Hopefully turbo is fine though... Can't pull it down for a fortnight as i'm back out to site today but will be interesting to see the damage.

Apparently the twin G turbo engine made 1050 hp on the dyno with a little worse down low than the 9180 it replaced, probably not a bad result given the extra few hundred hp it picked up

Thought i'd updated this since. Got the engine back quickly fixed up. Got it in a few days after aswell so quite happy with that, had to turn down the oil pressure as it was 650kpa just above idle but luckily that's a breeze to do with the tomei pump. Got it tuned over christmas and it was looking good, session was cut short by a dodgy sparkplug that had shattered causing a missfire. However driving the car the day after it started boost spiking above 30psi so that was a bit shet, havent really got to drive the car on proper boost even now 8 months later. In feb I changed back to the stock EFR 3 port as the tuner was having an issue with the 4 port being too sensitive, and also changed to IDx1300 injectors at the same time, got a basic 20psi tune done on the car and it hasn't been changed since then. Took it out to the track in feb aswell. Only change from last time was the engine and brakes still even the same 4 year old tyres (have alcon 365mm 6 pistons on the front, got them second hand fora steal). Had tried to fix the AWD and had the pump replaced 2 days prior however it shat itself again at the track and did the whole leaking fluid thing again so even had the AWD just as broken as the last track day. Still, it went well no heat issues given it was a nice summer day at QR so happy enough there, oil cooler must have been helping a lot and radiator is still doing its job when moving above 40kmh. only issue was the front right indicator decided it hated life and to exit the vehicle the first time i hit 200 on the straight, bracket was broken and the air must have been pushing against it from the inside to pop it out, it managed to dint the guard and bonnet minorly twice while thrashing around on the loom until it pulled free. Found it at the entrance to T1 at the end of the day, but got some new half decent clear indicators to replace it as it was cracked in multiple places. Managed to go from 61.8 to 60.5 on QR sprint so happy enough given everything else. Was running the same boost as the old Tomei Turbos, basically picked up all the time from just having better rev range and the extra power from the higher compression and displacement and cams. I also put some Gktech front upper arms in aswell, however i don't think they had a major impact on how it handled out on the smooth track surface, was just as much on rails as it was last time with the hardrace ones an i hadn't changed the camber and castor settings of the fronts much between either. That also took the last life out of the now nearly 5 year old RS3's, the car currently bakes 3rd at 4000rpm and would proably do the same in 4th on a poor surface. I've just purchased a new new second hand attessa pump and a fullrace ETS pro, am about to pull the trigger on a set of RS4's and plan to head out to QR again early sept, but doing clubman so times wont be directly comparable. Ideally will get more boost by then aswell but not sure if that will come to pass.

you can also run with with a 3 port just like a normal single port gate aswell (lower port open to atmo), while you're waiting on parts, and at least you will have a newer/better(maybe?) actuator on there. Speaking of that I need to figure out why i was getting 4 port issues with mine, ramp rate too fast etc full boost only at a low duty cycle % and next time i drove the car after the tune it was spiking past 2 bar. Bit of a shame as i feel that the 3 port certainly is doughier down low. Also, as much as i miss the the standard gtr BOV's, the integrated BOV with a 3.5" stainless intake and pod filter makes all of the ridiculous noises one could ever want anyway

Nice build. Should be a nice little combo when done there's a IAT sensor that bolts into the stock position and sticks out farther, with the faster response/open tip that i belive NZefi and Kudos motorsport has started selling, would recommend that for ease of install/neatness.

I might have missed it earlier but how many KM's do you have on it now Duncan? Another one of the issues is that battery life is related quite a bit to number of charging cycles, smaller batteries are obviously going to go through more cycles to do the same number of km's than bigger ones, or bigger ones might be able to stay out of the 0-20 and 80-100% charge range which is also less optimal for battery life in some cases. I guess its too early to tell as we only really have 3 major production runs of vehicles at the moment that have had a few years out there (tesla, i3's and leaf), and they all use different cell chemistry and design philosophies (active cooling vs passive etc). There's reports of Tesla's with 5 years/300k km still being at 90% battery capacity, and then we have the opposite with 66% after 5 years with something like the Leaf so there certainly is a lot of variability in there people will be worried about. Some sort of battery specific warranty for long term use will probably be needed to convince people. Obviously with all the fuss with the early leaf's nissan has made changes to the leaf's battery chemistry and management software so you would expect them to do better. I was thinking that a 30kwh one would suit work for my needs but now second guessing wondering if a 40kwh is more long term future proof in terms of battery degradation. Its worth pointing out that the 30kwh ones use the same type of cells etc just with better energy density, ditto with the new leaf's 40kwh, however the 60kwh one they're supposed to release at the end of the year switches to a different cell/pack structure so will have different characteristics again (better or worse who knows)

Known as 'bump fittings', pretty sure it was 1x 8m and 2x 10mm but you'd need to google up some info about it. Search for skyline rack fitting size or similar. for what its worth with the second fuel pump going now i'm seeing voltage drop now so will need an ARD unit or something at some point

earth and power to battery post, both of the control circuits to ign. there's also a fuse in there. Apparently both of the control wires do different things and i'll probabyl sort it out using one so it only turns on when engine is actually running unless i flick a switch

battery size comes down to max discharge rate. as with everything its a balance and to meet all of the other requirements they need to limit it to a certain amount. Eg a 20kwh pack that can draw 200kw of power is probably not going to have the lifecycle required. Slightly related, heard someone mention that a software update has 'fixed' the battery degrade issues with all of the 30kwh cars? So they might be a viable option, eg to import from Japan. I agree that its pointless to go for the massive pack because as said its never going to be good enough, however some people still might not quite be able to make 24kwh work. that being said i don't think i've ever done more than 170km in my daily in the last few years. a 30kwh version of the second generation with the old 80kw motor would be pretty neat

I'd put my hand up for an 8072 if such a thing was ever made. But given the volume of these that are made i'm not expecting any more to happen

450KW with a 7670 is not realistically what most people are going to get, 400kw would be about more normal i'd have thought? either way its the same sized compressor wheel as a 3076 but with a slightly bigger rear? either way your going to be able to cause as much damage to the engine with either if not tuned right

Everyone will say 1.05 external gate but IWG is sooooooo much easier to fit. CHRA has identical sizes only difference is weight

Does anyone actually have some inertia data? Have heard multiple people say twin 7163's will have less than a 9180 but yet to see any actual info. I'd be intrigued to know. I'm not sure the 7163's would actually have less but that's my own gut feeling (with no data to back it up) I think its a moot point though, but an interesting debate none the less, as as said last page, the 7163's do flow more so you still get that reagardless, and there's no single turbo as big in the EFR range to compare it against. Other people I've seen use them use them for the fact they maxxed out their 9180's