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Dewayne2121

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Dewayne2121 last won the day on June 8 2018

Dewayne2121 had the most liked content!

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About Dewayne2121

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday 10/15/1989

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alabama, USA

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    williamsdewayne@rocketmail.com

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    1989 GT-R
  • Real Name
    Dewayne

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  1. Make a bushing the size of the head stud hole with clearance for the stud in the hole, than install with sealant, stops any possible transfer of coolant. Bushed holes should have sealant on the head stud instead of arp lube
  2. Bushed, Decked, and Honed. Ready for pistons....
  3. So I’ve contacted Unigroup Engineers about their cams and I liked what I was told. So I’ll be going with the 260 IN/EX with 10.9mm lift. The CP Pistons states: “CP pistons are compatible with oversized valves and higher lift cams” Due to this change I’m going to switch to a dual spring set up from SuperTech (SPRK-M1007D/RB) - 92lbs @ 40.70mm In / 82lbs @40.70mm Ex —232lbs @ 11.00mm In / 222lbs @ 11.00mm Ex Max Lift: 15.3. About to start ordering the parts to get this in my garage by Christmas!
  4. I want results. Who's gonna see "Tomei" or "Kelford"? Brands aren't priority on camshafts for me... Exhaust system different story lol
  5. So I have got the ball rolling on the next step for this build.... I slept on it for a few days and decided that the best option for this would be to start it all from scratch. After sourcing different options and not wanting to "trust" someone's word on the mileage, who built it, what parts were used, etc... I decided to go through a reputable shop in Canada. Saint John Engine Rebuilders. They have done tons of motors and supplies a decent amount of RB builds to the USA. Bottom End As Follows: Rb26 Block w/ bushed decks (for the common head bolt hole crack) New Crank CP Pistons 86.5 9.0:1 Manley H-Beams N1 Oil Pump w/ Spline Drive ACL Main Bearings ARP2000 Main Studs. As far as the head goes. I am still looking at higher lift cams for more torque while keeping the duration in a nice range for the 2530s. (open to input). But the list of what I plan to do now: Metal Headgasket 1.1-1.3mm Tomei metal Gasket set Supertech/Brian Crower Single spring & TI retainers Supertech Valve guides intake/exhaust Supertech valve seal exhaust/intake Intake/Exhaust valves +1mm
  6. You have any suggestions?? I wanted to keep the duration in the 260-264 range for my HKS 2530 set up on E85. Also an update on the motor pull apart. Head off and ready to be cleaned up.
  7. So it looks like I will be dealing with a shop up north in Canada. I have reached out to a couple of them and have got the ball rolling on what I want. Will be receiving quotes hopefully all before Tuesday so we can get the engine to me by Thanksgiving (So about a month from now). Had three people send me their options they had for sale that stood out also. Option #1 Original N1 Block (Not Heritage edition) w/ rb26 fully assembled, N1 block, lots of new parts, assembled at boost factory. But only things that aren’t stock are the arp studs, bearings, and cometic head gasket. Waiting to see if he's willing to do the block and crank separate. Option #2 05u 86.5mm torque plate machined Cp pistons ceramic and moly coated Eagle rods R34 crank Reimax big oil pump gear Ported head Tomei Poncams Supertech valve springs wi ti retainers Tomei heagasket Arp headstuds Hks timing belt and gears Acl race bearings Tomei oil restrictor External cylinder head oil drain Custom in block cam trigger Option #3 built short block, crank with nitto extended collar, wiseco 86.5 pistons, Manley H-Beam rods
  8. Egg Zach Lee.... I spoke with him today and we both agreed on that. No point in wasting time/$$$, so I am adding a block to my list. Going to do some research for a couple days and see whats out there and all of my options.
  9. Update: Txt From Builder ”Hey man, I’ve got the bottom end torn down and it doesn’t look good. It has definitely been run low on oil a lot at some point and it has been run hard. It was just about to spin the rear most main bearing and/or 3 or 4 rod bearings. It has also definitely seen some detonation on several cylinders. There’s no cracks in the pistons that I have found but there has been a lot of skirt contact(piston to cylinder wall) there are some pretty serious groves. I honestly don’t know if 1mm over bore will clean it up or not. It also has the cracks on the deck between the coolant jackets and head bolt holes. I’m gonna check the cylinders to see if they’re egg shaped or not. The crank shaft is scratched up some as well from the lack of lubrication. I may be able to smooth it out with some emory cloth. I wanna get the head torn down and then I’ll go through and take a closer look at everything. I just wanted you to be aware of what I’ve found so far.”
  10. So, as of now, I am going to keep it a 2.6 and upgrade to the forge internals. The plan is as follows: (Feel Free to add suggestions and input if you have any past/present experience with the parts below) - N1 Crank (I have an early model 32 and would rather a new crank than deal with an American Muscle Machine shop) - CP Piston 86.5mm 9:0:1 - N1 Oil Pump w/ SPOOL SPLINE DRIVEN BILLET OIL PUMP GEARS - Manley H-Beam Rods w/ 3/8" ARP 2000 - ACL Main Bearings - Clevite Rod Bearings - ARP Head/Main Studs - SuperTech 70lbs Single Valve Spring w/ Titanium Retainers - SuperTech Valve Guides - SuperTech Valve Set - SuperTech Valve Seals IN/EX - Tomei Poncams 262 IN/EX 9.15mm lift
  11. Here are some images of the scope. Kick back, get some popcorn and enjoy the show...
  12. So I took the car back in to get to the bottom of it all. And so it begins..... Text message from builder: ”I’m afraid the engine is gonna have to come back out man. I checked and double checked everything, then I ran the video scope down the cylinders.... Based off of what I can see in the pictures, there’s at least 4 pistons that are pretty beat up around the edges, pitting, small chunks missing, etc. I’m pretty certain there are some cracked ring lands on the pistons based off of the amount and location of marks/scratches on the cylinder walls. It’s odd that the compression test doesn’t show it, but it’s not uncommon. More than likely once it’s running and under load the compression is dropping off. The only way to know for certain at this point is going to be to tear the engine down and assess the damage to see what’s happening and what is salvageable. I’m sorry, I know this isn’t what you were wanting to hear. I was really hoping to find something else, but that’s it.“ So I am right on schedule with this RB26 GTR build. Start with a simple plan and make 500WHP, that turns into a complete rebuild with FORGIES.....
  13. This is the last piece I will put into the car before I decide on ripping the head off and digging into the issues. If this is not a fix then I more than likely will be asking you guys about rebuild kits/options. But as always this is a mixture of pics and vids so enjoy!
  14. It’s an unopened 26. The next option was to pull the head off and look further into the issue. And on the octane. We also used E85 and was only able to get 416HP out of it. Am I expecting too much? Fresh built HKS 2530s, ID1050, etc... parts lists above.
  15. Ladies and Gents, The next time I thought I'd be posting in this thread it would be to give you all some Horse Power numbers, but thats not the case. I am here to say the car still does not make the power. The compression was checked and it came back : (#1 175psi, #2 150psi, #3 170psi, #4 170psi, #5 165psi, #6 160psi). Cranks right up, sounds good, drives around fine, just will not make any power. (320ish to the wheel on pump 93) "There is some leakage into the crank case" is what I've been told, but I'm not sure what that means. I am coming here to hope you guys can give some insight. Also, I can get the last dyno sheet and post that and maybe it will give some extra help to an issue as well. Whatever it's doing it's only doing it under load. I decided to get rid of the ignitor and upgrade to the R34 S2 Splitfire with the wiring specialties harness and then he is seeing if movement of the cam gears, synching the timing with that would make any "worthy" changes in the curve/peak power. All suggestions and insight welcomed...
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