sneakey pete

Generally for motorsport you need to have a catch can which has more volume then your engine displacement, aka 3L ones for Rb's or like 20 of these? Personally i'd say you can't go past a good custom battery tray replacement one with proper baffles/foam, and a sump breather. Or if you really want something off the shelf then a hioctane style one at least though volume may not be enough

EFR probably

Not sure how single turbo is relevant to that? ?

As far as im aware its impossible or impractical at least to do a twin scroll manifold with anything but a divided T3 or T4 flange?

From what i've seen with my egt's the 6th cylinder leaner thing is pretty much a matter of a few extra % fuel into the injector, as most base maps for rb26's do anyway and its then a non issue.

Why not just use the haltech to control the boost?

Next minute goes to California then back to the East cost before heading south...

Anyone got a good hookup on them?

While they will list certain CR's you can get anything custom made to suit, just may take a bit longer to arrive and possibly a slight bump in cost. 10:1 would be a pretty sweet spot I think, kinda wish I did that instead of 9.5:1 in my RB. EFR would be my choice just for the packaging, you get a gate, BOV boost solenoid etc all on the turbo itself, no extra bits to buy and fabricate which is a bonus.

Oh right i forgot GTR's are actually drag cars

Perhaps, But you can also have a lot of extra mass, that's right at the front, making your weight distribution worse and increasing your inertia for cornering, for very very little gain... In other words its not how big it is... its how you use it....

The information already in here is basically; shown off at SEMA 2016, someone had one on an evo earlier this year that made ~10% more power and that's about all we know? Hadn't really paid much attention to it but a mate may be interested if they're going to be a thing before mid year.

Is there an ETA or any more info on the 8474?

To be fair there's really 3 types of engineers, the third type which is end up doing what is basically management type work on projects

That sums it up pretty nicely. Basically you need to remember that everything has a resistance to conduction, even aluminium, just happens that it's is pretty low. A very small (microns) thickness of something more resistive isn't going to be as much as a large thickness of something that is less resistive, they are all functions of thickness.

Don't worry it'll work, and as said above equal length is more about sound than anything. I do find that a good twin scroll single manifold makes a similar sound so i'm happy either way.

Greddy are not equal length...

Does stock cover really fit without modification? going by how high they look at where my yaris coils sit I couldn't see it fitting without having to trim the ignitor depression like you do with yaris coils?

Wouldn't a 6758 be closer to a 2860 in terms of performance? Bear in mind RB20 not 25 with vct and the trimmings. Edit: T25 though so not ideal. Still you have a 56lb/min turbo like the 7064 or 60lb/min in 7163 trim, or a 35lb/min turbo in the 2860rs, bit of a difference. Not sure either of those two would quite match the low end of the 2860, though transient may be better?

Put mine in back in Jan. Was already running -2.5ish negative with hardrace arms which have a bearing instead of a bushing and are length adjustable instead of offset bushings, which probably is a better option. That being said the bearings seemed worse for wear (grease coming out) Also would have weird steering feedback at limits of travel, hitting bumps etc on lower speed corner. New arms in Seem just as good, was a pain to tighten them without having the right sized large spanners but got it to an alignment shop, similar alignment and they seem just as good on the track as the GKtech and much less unpredictable on the bumpy roads. Not as much of a noticeable improvement as above but that's probably because the existing arms were serviceable.

Well that's pretty decent then. Retract my earlier statement

oh you can make them fit, but i've not seen it done without running a cut out vented bonnet (defect) and spacing the subframe 10mm and messing up handling etc

Unless you have a R32. no RB30 blocks there As far as N1 blocks go, from what i've seen from someone cutting up a stuffed RB26 block and then comparing the UT thickness tests from a N1 block, it is thicker in certain areas, and not in others. Depending on what you actually have fail will it could be an upgrade or no better.

Consumer law would probably cover you under a failure in that circumstance regardless of what guarentee they offer.

obviosuly turbo etc skews it but that's a lot, think i only ended up paying about 22-23k for my engine itself Oh, n1 block probably adds a lot to it