sneakey pete

I just want milk that tastes like real milk. In other news, i'm getting boost spikes with the new tune unfortunately, seems to be more on rapid changes in revs, eg in second or if i lift off and the get back on it in 3rd/4th. This is using the 4 port with 14psi springs in an IWG 75. Will have to head back to the tuner I suppose. that being said I do have the 1.05 rear housing chilling out in the shed still that i got with the replacement core...

You don't need that kind of negativity in your life...

That one looks like a custom Jobbie, best bet is probably to take the end cap assembly down to a machine shop and get them to make a similar space/W provision like pictured there

Don't think you'd be at a power level where a 76mm plazmaman would be overwhelmed, didn't have any IAT issues with mine doing 700 to the hubs last month. Might make packaging and purchase price a bit nicer

The difficulty of this is that the sensor itself uses a less common thread (ie not NPT) given it was a custom large order at the time in japan in the 90s.. all good no worries. Nowdays not so easy to find anything that works on a one off basis. If you do find something that has the right cutoff range, then you need to make it fit which requires adapters/fittings and possible remote mount etc which also means new wiring. Not an easy task unfortunately. At the end of the day its still currently easy enough to buy a second hand pump for a few hundred and hope it doesn't fail. eventually they will become to expensive and then it'll be better to come up with a custom new solution. Also I have a suspicion excessive cycling from failed n2 canisters may accelerate the failure

got time to do a 2000-5000rpm pull in 4th on a flat road. B0ost is all there by 4000rpm. took 5.5 seconds to go from 2000 to 4000rpm and just over 1 to go the next 1000. She's rapid. Very happy with that.

This happened. Mainline Hub dyno so subtract what, 15% to the power? Pretty happy with it, probably another 5psi of boost to throw in once I get the speed sensor sorted and can have a bit of an idea of what its doing. Apparently the trail off at the end isn't the boost control at full duty cycle etc either, so its not any limit with the gate itself. but as it is i'm not fussed as its probably helpful with turbo speed If i get time before i go back to work i'll get some logs from some road pulls.

gearbox changes the ratios which changes the torque delivered, this doesn't effect the turbo response however. 8374 should do fine for what you want.

Keep in mind i'm talking 8374 IWG .92. Would say the diaphragm/gate size with the IWG would be around the 1.3ish ratio mark. The actuator seems slightly larger with the turbosmart iwg75 than the standard BW item. I guess i could go the other way and stick with the 3 port and put 25-28psi of springs in it? I noticed it going from the 7 to 14psi of springs (with no boost control) back when the car was getting set up, and i noticed going from the 4 port back to the 3 port to control it after the issues with the 4 port. I suppose the difference between 28 psi of springs and 28psi of 4 port wouldnt be much difference, and either would be better than making 28psi with 14 psi of springs using a 3 port?

Booked a tune in on mine finally. Thinking of putting in a softer spring in the IWG-75 and running the 4 port again, was only at ~20% duty cycle last time from memory with 14psi spring running 25PSI, there was trouble trying to stop overshoot etc. Have springs to make it 12psi already, what do people think it'll do with that, or should I aim lower?

Is there going to be pressure/flow loss issues before you hit temp issues, particularly for short stabs?

Re routed over the strut tower after melting it the first time... Also for longer term keeping heat out of the tower/ABS area, good quality wrap on the dump and also a good turbo beanie. That made a huge difference to secondary underbonnet temps i found.

Just bump the base pressure up a bit. and get cams with another 2mm of lift, that'll help.

There's literally an entire RB30 sub section to this section https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/184-rb30-conversions/

Id point out that the lowest Km rating there is 250000kms or so. Eg for any of us there is going to be no discernible difference if you run any of those tip speeds. Also doesn't specify ow they get a km rating, eg is that turbo full boost all the time at a high speed or an 'average use case' km?

Nah, won't be hate. Just subtle passive aggressiveness from the EFR master race...

I've had it suggested to me that a 74GC393 would do the trick, i'm just trying to get my head around if i need to do more than just give it 5v power, ground, the signal and then take the signal from the 3rd output and send that straight to the ECU, or if I need some other kind of input to it aswell? edit: so it seems i need to give it a a 'reset input' (pin 2), would i be correc that that's just another 5v input?

Yes, though you may sacrifice a useful analouge input to make it work. and its an extra box. Someone suggested using a Binary Counter to just divide it b 8, which brings it to a decent usable range (current max speed is 3700hz), i'm still trying to wrap my head around that one but it actually seems like a pretty simple and easy way to do it.

i know i'm just jumping on the peer pressure train. I'd say its worth it but it does depend what you want to do with the car. lot of drag boys dont bother. V band is nice but how often do you really take your turbo off the manifold? Just make sure you get a quality gasket and studs etc. and you wont have any dramas

If the only reason you're not getting a non HKS turbo is because you don't want to fab a new dump... Get a non HKS turbo!

don't forget GST.

so you don't need -10 fuel lines with twin dual entry rails for 400awkw on E85 then? ?

For those with no soldering iron experience this should do the trick https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-1/gauges-accessories/turbo-speed-scaler-borg-warner-efr-detail Though its an analogue input not a digital one so plan accordingly

Fixed that for you Mate of mine is doing a 26 7670 build should be running in the next few months, will be interesting seeing how it goes compared to my 8374. Can't say i'm 100% convinced its the better option for pure street duties, though wouldn't go a 7670 for the track etc.

Completely changed setup so its hard to say how much that part made but its pretty great.