sneakey pete

Makes me excited to get mine. Soon hopefully

What's the insides like on that one though?

Plenty have managed to kill them with 20 psi though.

don't see how that's more spensive then shelling out for tomie manifolds dumps and a set of brand mew turbos. If you do do it do it properly with a good manifold, split pulse, twin gates and the like though. as mentioned above in a perfectly relevant way, stock engine will probably give up soon enough though, so would pay to look at that I think

They fit under the driver's side battery tray nicely. 1m run back to the rack, botlt them to factory GTR bov points. Have a dumb unit, do wonder about getting a CAN one and if you could control it better than the internal logic on the dumb one. Car hasn't really been run with it yet so we'll see how it goes

Depends how it's been turned. Simple way to do it is under a certain % use the 98 tune with a trim for content, so you'll get the power of 98 and the economy of ethanol in that situation

Wait, so you've only got a 21psi map sensor but run 24psi, how does that even work?

http://lefthandutes.com

There's a mob that imports holden utes, puts the engine steering, seats etc from the us sold commodores into it and sells it. So you don't have to wait.

United always used to be that price though. Jumps not good but don't get why people can't remember it being that before

Gate setup when it was off of the manifold might have been the issue?

STZ. Has been there for 5 and a bit weeks now. Apparently its fired up but hasn't been on the dyno yet.

Cheers. Might be a little while until I get onto the E85. Got some things to tweak first and about to move house. Will get there eventually but will probably be running around on 10psi and 98 for a few months. Anyway, the leak seemed to be coming from everywhere: at the front of the block and the back, seemed to be from plenum height so I pulled that out. I had a suspicion it was coming from the rail under the plenum, but what I found when I went to unbolt it was pretty dissapointing. The bolts were only finger tight. There was no sealant on it. The guy i'd got to paint it had taken it off, the RTV had been water blasted all out, and it had then been re attached with finger tight bolts and painted over. I hadn't noticed the lack of sealant poking out unfortuantly. Needless to say paint didn't make a great sealant and I now understood how so much water was coming out of such a small areas. Photo of non sealed under plenum rail. (inner runners and plenum are upside down) Also a good shot of the underside of the plenum as i've got it set up. Blocked off the hoses. Also MAP sensor mount. And a good photo of whats left underneath the plenum now, with it in the bay for reference. I also primed up the fuel system and found.... another bloody leak. This one was interesting. It was coming from a bracket hole in the rail itself, not the injector orings. Looks like the thread was tapped to far/drilled to close to the main rail or a loose bolt has worn it out. Either way there's the tinyiest hole in the bottom of the rail under the mid port. Solved the problem with a raceworks rail. I also got a proper catch can, a Racepace one off of a R33. Fits well enough for now and has the double wiper pumps. Will probably convert to those at some point and open up the passenger side for a proper turbo intake. Speaking of which i'll get one of those made once the car's moving under its own power, need to relocate the intercooler piping I think, but really couldn't be stuffed loading it up on a trailer just for that. When that's done i'll also get the outlet on the catchcan changed and run the breather across infront of the radiator to the intake to make it all nice and legal and the like. Apart from that its all buttoned up. I've swapped the filter to a R34 one as I couldn't get to the dipstick otherwise (whoops). Finally with the help of some friends for both a trailer and a tow I got the car up to the workshop to be setup/fired up and run in on the dyno.

-5 rear is identical so it's best to use that. Front wise -5 is to big and you'd need to use -9 from memory. Back a few pages are the gtx 2860s that I did but I used some weird stock turbo covers

-5 rear is identical so it's best to use that. Front wise -5 is to big and you'd need to use -9 from memory. Back a few pages are the gtx 2860s that I did but I used some weird stock turbo covers

Very interested to see the comparison then Went straight to the twin port on mine

Everyone seems to be pointing the outlet down. Except me.

93 octane is 98.

Got to get block, have a machine, pay for workshop to ahve machine in, pay for consumables for machine (drills etc), pay for someone to mount up block to machine, pay for someone to oparate it for drilling. That's where the costs come from

Well thats interesting. Was twin gated on the engine dyno and then welded on gate off housing in car?

There's no over the radiator support intake on the 32's. Just a oval intake under the headlights that clips into the airbox. There's also a port between the in engine bay and the behind front bumper area on side behind the factory wiper washer bottle. How many intake options do you get on the 33's?

Aircon belt is in. Important around these parts. Not a whole lot of room between the balancer andt he adjuster however. May edit that in the future. Catchcan installed.... Also noticed that someone has been playing around with the underside of my car. Also its Filthy, in more ways than one. I took the time to install some ducting and a vent for the oil cooler. I will still need to install some ducting to stop air flow above and below it, and something on the inside. But this is a start, would stop a fair bit of it from flowing around between the outside of the cooler and the front bar. Got a bit of grill Mesh for the vent, will stop large stones etc getting in there, and its angled to stop aganse stuff from that angle. Buttoned up the interior mostly, ECU is still not bolted in obviously. I don't think i had any good pictures of in here including the steering wheel, which I really like and can't understand why people would go back to a standard one I also picked up a new wheel bearing and got a mate to help me by pressing it out and pressing the new one in. Except I'd ended up with a GTS-t one. However, got a new one sorted and had it pressed in. Also got a big piss off torque wrench to do up the new wheel nuts. Had to get a new set form nissan as the driveshaft shop seems to have lost mine. Torque wrench made short work of the required torque. Also used it to tighten the harmonic balancer bolt. So, all was well and good ready to insert fluids and send off to the workshop for run in on the dyno and the base tune... Or you know, not ready and pissing out coolant. everywhere.

Don't think there'd be the space between the rad support andt he bonnet?

Wish there was a way to do that with the 32's

GTS boy posted that ont he last page. behind the subframe under the wheel well.