brentos

Cool. Thanks for the fast response man. Well I was probably trying to avoid a tune at this stage, at least until I can afford a PFC and there was a couple of other minor mods I wanted to do too. I will try factory resetting the ECU on the weekend. So I guess I just unplug the battery and pump the brakes or turn on the lights to drain any excess power and let it sit for a hr or so? Do these ECU's map itself on your driving style? So over driving it for a certain ammount of time it maps itself, is that true? R 2 THE J When you had your rich problems did the fact reset of ECU have a good affect or at the end of the day will I HAVE to get a tune? Cheers.

Hi guys, Car: R33 GTS-T S2. mods: 3" dump. 3.5"catback exhaust. Catco high flow cat. FMIC. Pod. Exedy heavy duty clutch. A week ago I was getting the dreaded mis-fire problems in particular after 5000rpm when hitting higher boost. I have now changed the coils to Splitfires. I also changed the spark plugs to BCP6ES-11's and gapped them down to about .8mm. (the plugs previously were Autolite 1.1mm and had burnt tips). This stopped the misfiring and the car runs and idles fine. Now i noticed after changing this the car doesn't boost as high and doesn't have as much of a kick back. note the car seems to be fine on the lower revs but doesn't pull as hard when boosting up when higher revs. My question is. Have I gapped the plugs too close for what mods i currently have and the very little rwkw my car is actually pulling? Is it worth while factory reseting the ECU to loose any maps and get the A:F ratios back to normal? is my car running too rich? Thanks.

yeh I should be there. I am a new member so it would be good to meet some of the other members.

woops i think i just answered my own question ... its the gap like 11 = 1.1mm... hehe

excuse my ignorance, but do BCPR6E = BCPR6E-11 ? When I put BCPR6E into google it comes up as BCPR6E-11. What does the 11 mean on the end? I have misfire problems and plan on running these plugs with my new splitfires, should be OK?

Hi All, I have a '96 R33 GTS-T S2. I noticed over the past few days the steering had become quite heavy, in particular when doing low speeds & performing u-turns. At first i thought it was the cold weather, but it was still doing it after the car had warmed up and after driving it for a while. I noticed the power steering fluid was a tad low and had a brown/blackish texture to it (almost like it was burnt?) so I topped it up last night. I took it for a spin and noticed it was a bit lighter to steer but still far from perfect. When i was pulling out of my driveway I noticed the back wheels were steering too. I was under the impression Hicas only kicked in after 80km/h? It also feels like the hicas is permanently on and sometimes when i turn the back of the car makes a creaking noise like the rear axel is under strain by trying to steer or something. When I start the car the Hicas light comes on for 2 seconds then disapears, as it normally does. A lot of this could be me being paranoid or over protective of my car but I am sure it never used to do this. Your assistance would be appreciated. Thanks, Brent. (mods please move this thread if I have posted it in the wrong area)..

Im a bit worried now, my 3.5" exhaust is probably way too loud too. Does that mean somebody in my street can ring the EPA and dop it in?? Is it that easy?? or does law inforcement have to hear it then send a letter in the mail?? Man we have a nation of winge bags don't we!

thanks guys for the replies above. I am still searching for the thread of the guy who modified his snorkel, there are lot of threads to look at but i will post it here if i find it

I would also like to know the answer to this question if anybody has a solution. At the moment I have the standard airbox still in there minus the snorkel because my intercooler pipes are in the way of the snorkel. I haven't been bothered putting the pod in yet because I aint gonna put it in unless i purchase a headsheild or something simular for it.

Hi mate, I recently put an Exedy heavy duty clutch in my R33 GTS-T and for the first few weeks the clutch did make a 'scraping' sort of sound when taking off/ riding clutch as well as it was VERY heavy to push in. However, in general Heavy duty clutch is not the easiest clutch to ride me thinks... I wore in the clutch by driving it sensibly for 500KM and not thrashing it (which is what I recomend you do). After this it seemed easier to get it into gears and not scraping and in general just easier to drive with. Wait it out and see if it gets better.

I wired the clock back how it was (removed the daisy chain) & the H/U and clock still failed to work. I then wired up the boost gauge to the cigarette lighter - both the ciggy lighter and boost gauge work fine. There was a fuse labelled 'audio' in the boot near the battery and i checked that and it is fine. Now that I have put everything back how it was and it still fails it indicates to me that its a 99% chance that it is a fuse somewhere. I did double check all the fuses under the steering wheel and they seemed fine but I will take your advise tonight and change them - i didnt get a chance yesterday. On this list there is a fuse labelled audio http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...33-fusebox.html - would that be the only fuse that i should replace even though it looks fine because that fuse doesnt sound like it is inter-connected with the clock? Cheers, Brent

Thanks SLY-25T for that advise i will try it when i get home from work. Do you know roughly where the fuse is that blows? I am certain i checked most if not all of the fuses under steering wheel but i might have missed one. Cheers, Brent.

Hi Bill, thanks for your assistance mate. I had a quick look before work (didn't have much time, was a bit rushed) at the fuse box in the engine bay and the 10 & 15 amp fuses seem fine (there was about 5 of them from memory). There are the bigger fuses under there I will check those out later. Do you know if it is one of the smaller fuses or the larger square fuses? Cheers, Brent.

I just installed an after market boost gauge today in my 96' R33 GTS-T. I sourced the power for the gauge from the the power wires that lead to the in-dash clock, so it is daisy chained which probably wasn't the best way to do it but was easy and seemed like a good power source that was close to where i wanted to mount the gauge. After wiring everything up the boost gauge works fine, but the in-dash clock and JVC DVD player will not power up. I have checked all the connectors at the back of the dash and they are all in correctly as are the cables at the back of the headunit. The fuse in the headunit is fine and all the fuses in the fuse box under the steering wheel are in working order. I can sort of see why the clock stopped working as there might not be enough power source for the two items or something may have shorted - but I am stumped at why the headunit doesn't work when I didn't touch it at all. Any advise would be appreciated.

yeah i spose you can borrow my wheel on the weekend Leigh - if you help me with my clutch