TRB-001

i might in sydney in a few weeks.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/F-...=rb30det+4+door im in sydney can arrange somthing

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how many km roughly ?

maybe try some radiator flush or radiator cleaner from super cheap or any other car place..... its not as good as getting flushed by a specialist but i have seen good results.... tho i would say its pretty normal.... btw it does depend on a few other things.... if u got a front mount intercooler, thatl block air flow to the radiator, and the better the intercooler is the more hot air the radiator will see so engine temps will rise....

cool sounds good.... i got no problem fitting the parts... i just dont wanna waste money buying them all if they wont fit (as i have a change to buy a whole r33 kit)... thanks guys, if anyone knows anything i should know b4 i go ahead and purchase the r33 stuff... please let me kno.

yeah just solder where it says.... i did mine that way and have had no problems.

how bout clutch pedal? my main concern is wether or not to buy the clutch pedal or the master cylinder.... or if i dont buy those two, will the r32 mastercylinder work with r33 lines and slave.

anyone?

under what conditions are u getting 90degrees? or is it an average..... cars with electric thermo fans (like pulsars), the thermos only turn on at something like 93 or so degrees and turn off again at 89. my r32 with a rb30 on cruise on an average 25 degree day sits round 87 and under load it might go up to 105 (either on a hot day or long steep full throttle hills). the temps i just mentioned were on a ecutalk display while my temp guage on the dash sits steady at half way. p.s personally i would worry unless ur dash guage starts heading towards the 3/4 mark. p.p.s the higher opening temps on the thermostat are better anyway and helps bring the engine up to normal operating temps quicker then the 69degree one.

its not hard, if u pull off the gear boot (trim) u should be able to see how it connects to the gearbox, it has a small black rubber boot that covers up a big circlip, if u pull off the circlip itl come up.... or the other way is to un bolt the plate that it pivots within, either way there isnt much u can stuff up so long as u make sure to remember what goes where wen u put it back together. if ur in sydney, i can help, if not, pull it apart until u get stuck, take fotos and ill show u wot to undo next.

hey guys iv search but cant really come up with much for what im after... just want to know if i bought a r33 gtst manual conversion kit, what parts are interchangeable with the r32. as in, is the clutch pedal, cross member the same? i kno the tailshaft and speedo has to be modified but what else.... or a easier way to put it is, what parts can i use from a r33 conversion kit when puttin it in my r32 gtst

what part of penrith.... depends on where it can be nice, can be a shyt hole.... seems to have a big variety of workshops as its pretty much the last big suburb b4 the sticks.

thanks for your reply. where abouts are your? do u mean the whole kit for 1400... pedal, lines, flywheel, bolts etc.... and is everything to suit a r33 or r32? also how much for the the box,tailshaft, flywheel, bolts on its own.... also does it have a clutch?

sorry to hijack your thread but in your research how much of a power gain will these cams make

Hi guys, iv got for sale a few r32 rb20 parts left over from a build i just did. rb20 idle air control solenoid and housing (IAC) $50 rb20 auxilary air valve (cold idle up valve) $50 r32 front strut brace for Gtst $60 rb20 head minus rocker cover gasket and screws $200 r32 gtst 16" rims and tyres $300 r32 sunroof motor and regulator (all moving parts) $80 r32 rb20 automatic transmission $350 located in west sydney pm me for more details

yeah going off wot your saying i dont think it will be the headgasket..... usually the head gasket wont cause a miss like that unless its overheating at that time (which u have said u fixed but it still misses).... the bubbles in the coolant is normal if the engine was hot,running and u were topping it up, and if they have gone away then again i dont think itl be headgasket.... the miss is probably the normal coilpack problem our skylines have. that pic of the dipstick looks fine.... tho saying that if the headgasket was leaking it wouldnt show up straight away, it takes alittle while for the water to turn to that milky colour.

im guessing your talking about a r33?

why a new one? go to a wrecker and pull one of a 3L Vl commodore, they are the same and ur bound to find one thatl come of easy

how many kms and what computer?

first reasonable offer will be accepted!

stock box with good panel filter.... pods are a waste of money

this is the exact reason people make there own marks.....if the engine is running beautiful, its somes alot easier to make 3 of your own marks, transfer them onto the new belt and line them up again spot on, and u know your right the first time..... sumtimes u second guess yourself on the crank one becoz of the stupid angle its on.

lol by the sounds of it the pads are passed the wear markers..... check your break pads, i could be worn low on the inside pad so it might look normal from the outside...... turn the wheel all the way to full look and see if the inside of the rotor looks marked.