GTRPowa

Sup, I've been searching Google and read alot of threads on here but I can't really find 2 people agreeing on any one claim, so I'm stumped. Like others, my alternator started dying in heat, now it's totally dead. I've read threads which mention: * Rebuilding it * Replacing it with R33 items * Replacing it with a HR31 item (Which I can purchase brand new) * Calais forum talking about them police alternators, which someone at the ends claim they don't fit. Have I missed any alternatives? The best choice for me would be to simply buy the HR31 alternator, and if need be, adjust the size of the +12 lug and field wiring plugs. I have an Auto Electrical background, I just don't know what physically fits what cause I've only had the one Skyline and none of my friends own them. Can someone with actual practical experience give me some hard advice on what I should do? Most of the posts I see is 'should/could' - Has someone actually bought a new HR31 (RB30) alternator from Bosch, fitted it to their R32 GTR, and had it working? Any good advice appreciated, thanks in advance, hope to be on the streets again soon. I didn't want to make yet another alternator thread, but the others don't seem to have a definitive answer.

Sup guys, as some others have previously had on the forums, I got a leaking ABS unit. Dunno exactly where it's leaking from, either a bleed stem or a cylinder, the whole lower area is too wet to tell. If anyone knows a place that can rebuild them I'll check em out. (I found the DIY thread but I'd rather not for brakes) - Otherwise wtb. Cheers in advance. :>

Hey guys, I noticed brake fluid coming out between the master cylinder and it's 'booster pack' behind it. It's all over the 'booster pack' plastic and runs down under the car before dripping off. Anyone seen this problem before? It's not a massively fast leak, something I hadnt noticed until today when my fluid level was low for no apparent reason. I dont seem to notice extreme brake fade and can't make fluid come out under pressure... I don't have much experience with master cylinders and dont know if it's a simply seal or easy fix? Anyone had this problem before? Cheers in advance.

Yeah I have a habit of overdoing a job, simply cause I dont like going out mid-job to get more tools and parts, and cranes etc.. lol.. And the car was in a spot where I'd have to put it back together to get a crane in there so I got it early.. Mounts and shafts together? It took me around 10-12 hours, including getting a pro to repack and reboot one of the shafts.. I was excessively slow cause I didnt want to break anything, which kinda brings me to a offtopic question.. I'll ask it in a new thread.

The passenger one had some semi deep cracks in it, probably enough to cause some flex, but it wasn't ripped into two. (Although it did break into two as I jacked it up, so it woulda been weak as well) The drivers side looked almost new, but I replaced it anyways. They probably tried the passenger side, but if it was as hard as it was for me, they probably gave up, cause it was old, possibly original. There isn't much I can add to help others change their mounts, I was armed with 3 jacks and 2 jack stands and still had huge issues. Took me 5 hours! Alot of the time was working out where to jack the engine because all the crane points on the engine are missing.

A reply for myself and others: Well it was a real pain the a$$ trying to get them mounts in, but I got them in. I had to cut down the length of the bolts on the mounts a bit, but nothing dangerous, they still just protrude through the nuts. I didn't have crane slings in the end, so hiring the crane was kind of a waste (for me anyways) - But I can see how the job would be alot easier with a crane. I took out the passenger side drive shaft to access the passenger mount. It has a worn boot anyways so it may as well come out anyways. Now I just gotta stick the shafts back in and give it a test drive. I have 3.5mm shims to space the naughty shaft a little extra to ensure this wont happen again. Haven't driven a kilometer in it (in 4WD) since Croydon tuned it so I'm really keen to get out there.

I've bought a set of them Nismo mounts you guys recommend. Although I must ask, with the passenger mount, removing the bottom nut is quite easy, but the top nut is very difficult to reach. How do I get this nut off? Is there a certain way? I read in another thread that the guy lifted the engines weight and removed a crossmember, but I assume he's got a different engine since I cant see a removable crossmember? The drivers side mount is very easy to get to on both ends of it, just the passenger ones causing the problem. -- On top of this, it appears I have no hooks on the engine to lift it with a crane. Judging by the poor quality scetches in the manual, I should see a hook/mount on the front right (intake side), and rear left (exhaust side) of the engine.. I see neither.. Am I looking in the wrong place or are they probably missing? I've done a few transplants before on other cars, but never a Nissan. If they 'are' missing, where would you guys try and sling an engine? Excuse all the questions, trying to ask it all in one post. :>

I'm looking at available engine mounts nowadays as well to finish the job off. Not one element will be left untouched, and even if the engine was 'locked' into place with metal mounts, the spider must still be extremely close to coming out. I figured adding all these elements together will buy me as much leeway as I can have. And considering the enclosure for the spider is about 100mm deep, I have a fair amount of gap I can close whichever way I can. lol There is no way in hell that I'm breaking another one of these bastards. I'm very thorough with stubborn problems such as this. Time to find some extra strength mounts to polish off the setup, the camber kit is on the way.

I've since made my way out to a local bearing and bolt shop. I've found a few washers that fit over the splines, but only just. These washers were flat, but after putting them between the CV join and the hub, and tightening them, they've since become perfectly shamfered. 2 of these washers is enough to give me an extra 5mm on the shaft. The sensor still seems to work fine, I just need to wait for a complete shaft to test it. I'm going to couple that additional 5mm, with a camber kit to straighten my front wheels back up. But the issue I see with this is the upper camber arms (easily obtained) will only push the centre of the hub further away in order to achieve a level camber. I'm thinking I need a type of 'lower arm'. The arm that sits parallel with the tierods. If I can get an adjustable version of that, then I could pull the bottom area of the rim in, helping achieve level camber while again bringing the hub a few extra mm in. Next thing I'm looking at is modifying the shaft inside the fixed join section. Perhaps in there I can buy an extra mm or two, and by this stage I'll be looking at around 10mm extra length.. Considering the VERY UNIQUE circumstances for these to break, I don't think I'll encounter any problems ever again after performing these modofications. I'll keep you all posted as to my results.

And here it starts. Mainly because I have to stand my ground on certain issues. Yours is the only one that mentions a fix. You 'blamed' the mounts, but didn't actually mention that you fixed them, and hence your problem went away. But I'll make the assumption that that's what you did. And the guy above me, same thing, he blamed the mounts, said "Hopefully today I can drive it again" and since then no reply. So again, I have to assume (with my wallet) that engine mounts are the cause. Although on the dyno the engine experienced no shaking or rattles, even coming off throttle. But hey I'll buy them anyways, a new shaft as well.. And if the mounts dont make a diff and the next $300 shaft breaks, I'll come back and bitch some more. I've searched the internet, this forum, spoken with many reputable shops, all that have never even seen this problem with their own eyes, ever. Telling me do 'perhaps do a search' simply insults my attempts to find a fix to the problem, and also to show others (in a very logical and concise manner) what the causes are, and how to remove/fix/adjust them. "CV's keep on breaking" They aren't 'breaking', the spider pop's out and it's only the aftermath that kills it. It's obviously a problem not plaguing everybody. Not every GTR owner is experiencing this problem. Frankly I wish I was one of you, so I could complain about misfires when backing off at 4000rpm and the likes. Those probs sound better than "Hey, I have no AWD and 0% traction after spending over $7,000 on parts and labour for a tune" Keep up my options people. The geometry on both wheels are identical when measured on a level surface. The engine isn't shaking around, the car is in great condition and hardly thrashed, etc. I'm actually looking at getting a shamfered washer (or the likes) and placing it between the shaft and the wheel hub to space it out, although this will be a last ditch effort. If I break another shaft I'll sell the car and let someone else deal with it.. ..lol

Can we get some seriously knowledgeable and experienced people in on this problem? Can any of you come back and perhaps say "Yes, I fixed it, this is what I had to do?" I know when someone posts several times in a row, then all of a sudden is silent, that the prob is fixed. So share your definitive fix with us so we aren't all running around wasting time. World spins faster then. I broke one being rough.. Put another one on and it broke within 200km. It survived a full day of tuning on the Croydon dyno, then someone takes it for a test drive, and before it even reaches boost, the spider pops out of the enclosure it's meant to sit in. So it comes out, then flies around destroying itself. The current one that broke on me will be fine to re-use once I get 2 balls that went missing from the spider. But my issue is, why is this happening? I don't really want to keep buying shaft after shaft. Especially since this could (depending on the circumstance) keep me stranded somewhere late at night. We all know the shaft needs to be locked into the diff or it will leak. We also know it must be flush with the wheel hub for the wheel sensors to work... What am I missing here? It's DEFINITELY related to the distance between the wheel hub and the diff becoming longer. This car has stock hubs and diff setup. Yes, it's lowered, but nothing more than every second GTR I see out there. Facts: The shaft was a 'reco' from justjap. Well reputed. The 2 front wheels seem to measure about where they should be Front shafts can handle huge power, 8 second cars use them. The spider pops out, only stretching a shaft's length could cause this. Questions: Can a shim/washer be placed on the INSIDE of the hub over the shaft to shorten it a bit? Do diffs leak if the shaft was (lets say) 5mm unseated? Are shafts supposed to have a surclip to stop the spider from pulling out of it's enclosure? Would adjusting castor AND camber help to bring the centre of the hubs in? (Too far in and it'll look weird, this is shit) Did anyone actually work on their engine mounts? And have DIRECT success afterwards? Anyone here using camber or castor kits? Anyone with a working car got a measurement between the diff housing and the inner right hub? Let's get this crap fixed. -33

The aftermarket boost gauge and controller both T off the fuel pressure reg. I replaced all hosing today with new stuff. Very short efficient T off to reduce any possible lag. The hose going to the controller has a strong Vacuum. All connections are tight. The controller shows the correct boost, including the overboost.

Well I've had a look in the Service Manual and found the PCM valve I suspected. That's where the solenoid currently is. I figured I could move it across to the other side of the engine bay, far reducing the length of the hoses and possibly removing some of the spike? I can slowly ease off the throttle to keep it at the desired pressure, then plant it, and it'll stay there. It's just the initial spike (that also appears on the boost controllers screen as well as the guage). I figured it's the delay between the Gizzmo solenoid and the wastegates? Since the hoses are quite long.

This is the IBC, not the MS-IBC. This unit does not have Spike Stop. :< Edit: Where is the stock actuator? Are you talking about the actuators on the turbos? Or the stock solenoid?

Sup, I bought a Gizzmo IBC today to replace my ProfecA (it was going back to stock boost, after trying everything a dozen times, unit was getting old anyways) I have read and understood the instructions completely. The unit has been installed as per instructions and operates to a tee. However I'm having 1 issue: At almost any set duty cycle (boost pressure) - the car will overboost, and then quickly drop to the desired boost level. The higher the boost setting, the higher the spike. The higher I have the car revving before I plant it, the higher the spike. I have it set at around 17 pounds, but I've seen it spike as high as 20-21 pounds. I now have slight oil on the intake side of the engine, looks like the extra pressure pushed the dipstick out a tad.. This is scary, I need help to fix this issue, until then the boost remains at 14 pounds. One thing I have noticed is the Gizzmo solonoid is installed over where the stock PCM valve is. (Please correct me in saying the PCM valve is related to regulating boost pressure? Because originally the electric plug on it was not plugged in, and I've since blocked both hoses to it?) The hose length would assumingly be 2+ metres... Should I be moving the solonoid to a better (closer) spot? Where are all of your solonoids mounted? Cheers for the help in advance. :> Edit: This happens even when using 0% gain on the Gizzmo. I'm only adjusting duty cycle. I understand the operations of the unit. Edit: The car has N1 turbos, if this helps.

I got my GTR recently, and amidst installing gauges and revealing the ECU, I find this box piggypacked onto it. It's around 8 inches wide, 4 inches deep, and an inch high. It's got 3 knobs, 'Start', 'Rev', and 'Gein' The 'Start' and 'Rev' knobs are maxed out and the 'Gein' (gain?) knob is 0%. It's only piggybacking the VSS, Tach/Rev signal, and erm.. I think it was one of the injectors?.. The car's got a Mines ECU, and an Attack Meter in it. The attack meter piggybacks off this 'PROSTART' device (not in series in any way), meaning it was probably in here for a long time. The PROSTART looks very old and crap.. The ECU also has what looks like a DMX cable tapped into it as well, any ideas why or who would leave such a thing in there? Does anyone know what this PROSTART device would be? It's not tapped into anything that's related to starting the car, adjusting the knobs doesnt seem to affect anything (on idle).. I can't find any information on this device, it's background or use, etc. I would like to remove it if it's not going to cause me any problems.. Could send pics tomorrow if needed. P.S. The car was inported about 2-3 years ago, and the one and only owner didnt seem to know much about car at all, and hasn't ever put anything in there. Cheers in advance.

lol. "Stop, that pod setup's not giving you maximum horsepower. Defect."

Sup, Perhaps one of your rear wheels was out of alignment, and the kit has forced them straight.. If you have the Tomei kit, I'd still use the electronic lock out box - Otherwise if Hicas tries to steer the rear wheels, and they cant, there's added strain to the power steering pump. (Like overlocking your steering wheel and holding it there tight, bad.)

Sup guys, New to forum and got a GTR a few days back, been reading up alot on the site about things and there is a great deal of interesting information. To add to this thread, I'm have the same problem, but mine is because I have no speedo (assuming speedo cable is broken). After a few k's the light come's on and the steering becomes heavy. Working with plant machinery, I assume the power steering pump provides hydraulic pressure to the Hicas pump. Because the Hicas disables (for whatever reason) the solenoids in the Hicas system close off, adding a lot of pressure (and stress) to the power steering pump. I wouldn't focus on the power steering pump for the cause of your problems, but it's merely a side effect of the Hicas system becoming disabled. As some others have said, a new steering wheel could be causing the issue. For me it's no speed sensing. Not knowing all of the sensors the Hicas system uses, but assumingly steering, speed, and possibly individual wheel speed? (ABS sensors). The diagnostic system (mentioned above) would provide the you with the cause of the problem. Being very new to it all, I haven't had the chance to double check if mine's what I think it is.. ..But yeah, I doubt 'the cause' is anything related to the power steering. Cheers.