GTRPowa

Looks awesome, although out of my league of wanted cars.

Damn that's bad. I'm pissed about some brake fluid leaking and making a mess of the paint underneath.... ----- This makes me feel better.

Not really, if +12's were to fit without lip rolling, he probably would have gone that way. Now that it's been shown several times in this thread that they won't fit without modification to the body, he doesn't want to do it. Exact same position I am in. ------ Edit: In fact, ^Was the purpose of his thread. It'd be a perfect time for Wasteland fags to start posting up thousands of car pics that suit the OP's question. But no, opinion comes in, one that doesn't relate to the original question. This thread was MADE a waste of time.

Damn Paul, always got the good info on you.

Close your browser then, if it doesn't close I can provide you with instructions on how to kill the task manually. Cool forum for that.. Exactly the choice that stands in front of him. And when I don't read a thread I don't care about, I don't post in it. Soft? Out of interest, what's the stock GTR rim offset? He didn't ask if a tiny lip would be a physical change to the car. In fact from what I interpreted, he does NOT want to modify the body. NOT, NO, NEVER. Looking soft wasn't a focus of his question, but seems to be a focus for you. Because second opinions and communication is what makes society move forward. -- I came here because I have the exact same question. Well that's only half true, since my question is "What is the largest offset on an 18x9.5" rim that you can use that won't scrub in ANY conditions and you don't have to modify the body to suit the rims?" If everyone's answer was the same as yours, I'd learn nothing. Good luck with choosing your rim's Nick. Please PM me pics once they are fitted, I won't call you 'soft'.

After one hopefully by Friday mate, I'm not sure a package would get from you to me in that amount of time?

Ok, turns out it was the CAS plug. I got a mates CAS, plugged it in, no difference. I then plugged mine back in, and it was working. Installed it into car, stopped working. Used electrical contact cleaner, and slightly bent the CAS prongs so it makes a better connection. Took the car out for a good 1 hour drive, all is well. Thanks again for helping to solve this annoying problem.

Sup, Want to buy R32 GTR ABS unit without any leaks. PM Offers.

Yes this is what I have done and I can't hear the injectors. I also had my FC controller with me and it was always sitting on 0 rpm, no matter how fast you turn the CAS. I've borrowed an identical CAS from a friend, installing it tomorrow. I'll post my results when I get up. Night shifffftttt.

Sup, I'm looking to borrow a CAS to see if that's whats causing my car to play up. If it's the cause of my problems I'll offer to buy it, otherwise pay $10 for my randomness. I will pick it up myself, you don't even have to leave the garage. Cheers in advance.

Both water and air temp show 14 degrees C, my current ambient temperature. I was thinking that this problem is indicative of the CAS on the way out. I've taken it off and done some measurements as per the manual, but I'm getting vague readings from it. Eg, I'm supposed to get 12 volts on terminal 3 with IGN on, I always get this without a problem. However terminals 1 and 2 are supposed to alternate between 0 and 5v? I expect nothing in between? On terminal 1 I get 0.02 volts, earlier it would change to 0.07 volts when a gap in the CAS disc would pass the sensor (This is inside the CAS). Now It's always 0.02v no matter the angle of the CAS. On terminal 2 i get fluctuating voltages from 0 to 5 and anything in between. Shaking the CAS makes the volt meter go all over the place, I see voltages such as 0.40, 2.68, 3.7, 4+ etc. On top of all of this, when I turn the sensor with the PFC on, I should see the engine rpm going up? When I crank the engine with the CAS installed I should also see the RPM going up? And again, when cranking I should see my tach needle go up a tad? None of this happens. However once of twice when cranking I've seen the engine speed touch 180 for a moment, I've also seen it touch 4000 rpm or so, this is while cranking. But 99.8% of the time it stays on 0 rpm. ^ Btw I havent known this all along, just came to notice a question in the Service Manual saying "Does your tech needle move up while cranking?" - Made me think about the CAS on it's way out. Suggestions? Cheers again. Edit: The CAS itself spins smoothly, no clicking, friction, or problems. There was also no dust inside the CAS at all. Are they cleanable/servicable? I see more screws inside the CAS but I dont want to dig that deep yet.

The sensor check. I can't find much info, but with the black light on IGN, does that mean it's found a working Ignition, or there is an Ignition problem? lol And what does ECC mean? Your FAQ doesn't mention this one Paul.

Yeah the AFM's are plugged in, and I assume they are correct because the connectors don't reach the opposite AFM's. I didnt think it mattered which AFM was plugged into where, because it averages the both? I was looking at sensor check when the car was actually running, both AFM's, O2's, TPS, etc etc were working. The Idle as well. I spoke with a fuel injection guy this morning and he thinks it could be the ignition/ignitor. I'm going to test the length of the arc with a screwdriver as we speak. He also said with all the fuel dyes nowadays that my red fuel could have been just that, red fuel. I will also review my Sensor Check again. Any further tips appreciated.

Car runs a power fc, z32 afm's etc. The afm's and injectors were installed at croydons and tuned from there. That was over a year ago. None of that was changed, just new turbos and dumps on the engine. (Car hasn't been driven at WOT with new turbos either for obvious reasons until tuned) And to add, the car was running perfectly fine, after 15 mins of idle it started to play up.

Sup, I've finally gotten around to finishing a ton of work, including my new -5's. But it's now a bitter sweet situation. I started it up, not a problem, engine started first crank as though I drove it yesterday. Idled like a dream, not one issue, I was happy. Then it developed a very minor misfire on idle. It had been idling for about 15 minutes by this stage, letting everything warm up to check for any leaks, etc. I kinda figured the fuel was crap by this stage, but still good enough to drive it away, since the misfire was minor. Big mistake which will cost the money I saved on some bargains. Took it out, up the street, light throttle about 3000rpm then it started dying instantly. It was like a switch, engine off, engine on, engine off, engine on, in half second intervals. Obviously I turned around asap and took it home, where after it died coming into the driveway. Since this happened I've drained the 40 or so litres from the car, it was a very orange/red colour (assumption: dead fuel) and I'm not really versed in the smell, but it didn't smell 'potent' like good fuel does. I drained it by hotwiring the pump and running till empty. I then put 10 litres of VPower in it, pumped it through the rails, then drained all of that as well. Then I pumped a full tank of brand new VPower. Still wouldn't start though. So then I replaced the fuel filter, the old one felt quite blocked when I blew through it. With the new one installed, tried again, still wont start properly. - It stutters with the starter motor on occasion, sometimes it'd start running and misfire for 2 secs, then dies again but it's been doing this since the problem started. Pulled the plugs out, all 6 spark fine off all 6 coils, but I replaced them anyways with new BCPR7ES's. It still wouldn't start. Took the plugs out, and they are wet with fuel. I crank the engine without the plugs and I can see fuel run over the top of the pistons, all of them. ---- So whats going on here? The fuel works, the spark works. The engine DID run fine, and slowly degraded, so I put electrical problems behind me. The spark plugs all sparked fine, on all coils, so I ruled out ignition. New air filters, def not blocked. If the injectors (Enterprise 700cc, traveled 3000km) were blocked, I'd get no fuel? Should I see fuel vapor coming out of the engine? Or fuel running over the top of the piston? (By run, I mean very minor, I see wetness appear and fade, not a tidal wave) Could it be a possibility the injectors are hosing the engine? Anyone know a reputable fuel injector cleaner on the Coast? I know of them, but I haven't used anyone before. Anyone had experiences with this exact problem? I know some GTR's don't get driven often at all. Excuse the thoroughness, just explaining everything step by step in case anyone else has had the exact same thing happen and know exactly what was fixed. Cheers in advance as always.

Yeah but a commodore isn't 3k a week. Still good value for the experience.

You can download the software for free, load a sample map, and have a play around. Get all the confusion out of the way so when you spend the money to buy the box, you're ready to go. On a personal note, I'm waiting for my box still.

Well... They do. Put water on a standard R32 GTR spoiler, drive at 60+ and watch what happens.

The most calmed report I have read. Looks like The Age don't fk around.

I'm in the same boat, post any findings you get djr.

Yeah you won't 'see' infrared flashes. But they're out there, and here in NSW they are becoming quite common.

A lean tune?

Nice setup. Get's me thinking back to my home setups in mates cars, I'll try and dig up some pics, same as yours but the vinyl was already covering it.

R32 GTR R34 GTR 2JZ Supra S6/8 RX7 Other