GTRPowa

BC2/MW2. The only 3 I have had installed for the last 6 months. If you haven't seen Test Drive Unlimited 1 - TDU2 comes out mid Feb, and with it's semi MMO setting, it'll be awesome for gaming nights. Groups of up to 8 people driving wherever they wish on many hundreds of satellite mapped square km's.

Weird I had the same problem a few months ago. My brakes were leaking at the ABS because of a poorly tightened flare nut. Before I noticed the issue I had to slow rather quickly, and the light showed up as I felt the ABS startting to operate. All was well though, brakes still were fine, fixed the leak, bled the brakes, and had the light come on randomly during a drive (this lasted for a few weeks, driving twice a week). Diagnostics showed the ABS had a problem with it's solenoid. After a few weeks it stopped by itself, I've always assumed it was an air pocket. A recent bleeding (only at the calipers) supported my theory since a little more air came out after a few pumps. Since then it's been fine, no leaks, no air, no lights. Hope it shed's light. For regency, remove bulb, but being me, I'd always make the assumption a good regency worker would check to see if the ABS lights up when the ignition is first turned to ON. If I had to test 'the operation of fitted ABS' it's be one of the things I'd check.

Closed road? One way? What happens if you lose it into the oncoming lane and the driver veers off the road and off a cliff/into a tree? Who's responsible for that? This applies to bikes, huffies, RC cars, anything. There are still really cool though, I just wish we had a place to use them without anyone getting hurt, and having to pay arms and legs just to have a go on a track. < Like everything else we like to do.

Or amongst all the planning you could think about the title of this thread, I seem to always see it every few days. 10000 views, almost 10 pages, still on topic, way above the 'average' for a thread of this type. Let's face it, it's popular. With Baron's rants (which I agree with) it's become a rather interesting and.. would the statement be, 'controversial in the eyes of the law?' thread. With the current climate of imports, hoons, police digging on websites, this threads popularity, the decently sized offence in the thread's name, etc etc, it's not at all silly to think that the prosecutor 'could indeed' have a copy of this thread. Pictures, court dates, it's all here. --- Mate, being a victim of internet digging, I'll say now, take it like a man. You're worried about the 2 flashes of a camera where I'd worry about this threads publicity. I don't want to burst any bubble but just saying it how it honestly could be.

Bout the P-Plates. Pretty sure the law was changed some time ago to say something along the lines of "P plates must be displayed at the front and rearmost extremeties of the vehicle where practical. As far as I know they know let things like vans and wagons have the plates behind the windows (tint issue aside) If you're driving a sedan with your plates behind the windows, technically you're breaking the law. Take it from me, when I had my P's it was the lack of display that took my license twice. Stick em on the front/back of the car, don't tilt/hide/put them half behind your plate either. No silly colours too. Besides, back in the day ANY car with P-plates would turn the heads. ---- Just to add, they can fine you for tint on the spot? Did they test the tint with a tester? Normally you don't get fines for defects (except tyres) - they instead send you away to have it inspected, costing you a nominal inspection fee + alterations.

I just read the manual. It mentions (as someone else did in this thread) that there are many alignment marks for the prop shafts. Axial play is 0.6mm, so by rotating the shaft at the gearbox end with the gearbox in neutral, you should'nt see more than that. It mentions length, but for the stock 2 tube setup, which is 392+597mm. I don't know if that includes the centre bearing, yoke etc. It mentions that on the gearbox AND diff, there are mating marks (or should have been drawn on there before it was removed.) So you'd have marks on the diff, gearbox, and both ends of the shaft. It also mentions rotating the diff 90 degrees, and try again, if not try 180, and 270 degrees. This is where the prop shaft mates with the diff. At the end of the day, if it's balance was checked, is the correct length, and is mated to the gearbox and diff with the correct alignment, you could then eliminate the shaft. --- Try this exact sequence as well. - Park. Gearbox neutral, clutch out, rev the engine, also, try holding at 4000rpm, then at 3000, etc. Do you feel the SAME vibrations at ANY stage during ANY of this? Just remember being in neutral is the key. You can test the input end of the box by being in neutral while parked, revving engine, etc. You can test the output end of the box while the car is moving at various speeds, again in neutral. I can suggest that it will only vibrate during one of these testsm unless it's the clutch/flywheel, in that case you'd feel it on both tests. Eliminate.

Just to add, isn't it the consensus that they use 2 piece shafts because they have less torque flex/warp? (which causes vibrations under load?)

Is it a harmonic vibration? Like when you have a poorly balanced wheel/tyre? Or is it a metal to metal vibration, like random banging? If it's a speed related harmonic vibration, and it does it when in neutral and rolling along, it's your tailshaft/diff/axles. Now all things being equal (if nobody thrashed it without your knowledge) the diff "shouldn't" just stuff out. Not to mention they don't usually cause much of a vibration without a lot of noise associated with it. The axles etc, well they shouldn't have even gone that far back. My subframe bushes are stuffed, and if you search Google, you'll see forums all around the world with this common problem. While causing other suspension anomalies, you don't get speed related vibrations, and again, not instantly after taking it to a mechanic. I'd put my money on the tailshaft. Get it balanced, any gearbox/tailshaft place with a balancer can do it, have it checked. This is assuming it's speed related vibration with the car in neutral. To check shaft length quickly yourself, remove the bolts from the pinion gear on the diff and push the shaft towards the box. When it stops, you can mesaure the length between the shaft and diff's pinion gear. I'd have to get the book out to know the measurement (if it even has one), but you'd probably want to see about 20mm gap. (< My guess) If it's like, 5mm gap, or around that, I could safely say that's probably too long, but even then it shouldn't cause a speed related vibration unless the gap was like 0mm and you really had to force it in.. ----- If it's engine/rev related vibration when in netural. It's quite possibly the flywheel/clutch/plate/input shaft/etc. You'd have to have the box off to check this out. --- Cheapest thing you could do right now would be to fit a friends shaft if you can get one, or get yours balanced. And if you don't care about taking it somewhere else, get it independently checked. Good day

Water IN your intercooler or ON it? Unless your car was under a meter of water there shouldn't be water in there because it's all air tight, bar your pod/filter. Computers/Scans/Onboard Diagnostics? Consult codes etc? See if the computer knows of any dead sensors first. Check spark at each plug? Check inside each cylinder for fuel while cranking using no plugs/ignition? Do you hear the fuel pump prime itself when you first turn the ignition to 'ON'? You should also hear the fuel pump relay click when you turn the key to 'ON', then turn off a few seconds later. Start from the start. This is just like any of the other 'my car won't start' threads in a sense, you'll have to go through the same diagnostics as them to find the problem, unless you find water somewhere that makes it obvious (like where your computer is). Get/download/acquire a repair manual. The flow charts for the GT-R are really cool. If you can read English, and have access to basic tools and a multimeter ($20 cheapy is all you need) - you can fix/diagnose most electrical problems.

I don't, but just to help, what's going on? If you know it's MAF related, get a screwdriver, pry the top off the square lid and check the 4 connections in there. The soldering goes bad. Took me 5 mins to fix and half hour before that I thought the world was lost. Only takes 5 mins to check that.

HPI Baja 5T. 5th scale. ESP 30.5cc engine. Dominator pipe, makes 6hp. Very long list of parts, it's got almost everything on the DDM catalog in it. Just needs the clutch set to lower RPM and shorter gearing and it'll be a fast, balanced machine!

That your car in the pic? You got a carbon bonnet with holes cut in it?

I just lightly hold it against reverse and release clutch slowly. As soon as the clutch get's the slightest takeup it falls into gear.

Bumping for usefulness. I was about to chuck a thread up saying how I did this as a fix but found this first. VG30 in Maxima being pain in the ass on all types of driving, but very very intermittent. Cleaned AFM and contact cleaned corrosion off one of the contact pins to no avail. Not knowing the internals of the AFM I took out them 4 screws and lightly tugged on the socket, and like you said it came out surprisingly easy. Now, knowing it's broken anyways, I pried the top off and saw the 4 pins were all intact, resoldered the joints and it's been running fine ever since. Lots of money saved. Remember to reseal the join on the lid with some gasket goo. +1.

"Posts Since Last Visit" I can't seem to stumble across this button. Is the feature removed or a manual link available? I mostly used this function before site update.

Last week I found a '94 Maxima with leather, roof, + all options including crap like mirror heaters and digital entry. Cruise, etc. Every single thing works perfectly, the car drives like it's dont 50,000k's where it's actually sitting on 240,000. Shifts perfectly, the exhaust is quiet as the day it would be new. Not a hit of dirtyness in any fluids, including the engine oil. Got it for 3k with 6 months rego on it. Has the VG30 too, strong engine, although the car will never cop a beating. No signs of leaks, even on the sump there is no grit or signs of cleaning. Even the "Made in Japan, Only owner can remove this sticker" awkwardly placed on the windows lol. I've had the luxury of a daily+line for about 2 years now, and in hindsight of owning just the line, I don't think I could ever go back to one car. You don't get bored with the line/weekend car - and the cheaper daily provides cheap, reliable travel to work without throwing k's on your weekend car. You can also do the whole car cover/garage thing like I do and you don't even need to wash it as often. Mine just get's a fresh layer of quik detailer/inspection and it's ready to go, no stuffing around to keep it looking good. When a car's in service, you have a second. When you want to work on your weekend car, as PM said, you don't have to stress about putting it back together that night. Fuel/tyre consumption is moot since you only drive one car at a time. The main expense after buying the second car is simply rego+insurance, plus a little TLC along the way. And if you really spend a few days looking at all the yards, and private cars, learn the market for the time, you'll end up picking up a quality car, and you won't have to second guess yourself if you got the best value for money then. Edit: And it's a buyers market so there are some really nice cars out there very cheap.

So we can form a lynch mob and ridicule someone who crashed his car, even if by himself, not 'trying' to hurt anyone, and using actions most of us here could admit to.. But we can't name someone who would screw over ANY ONE of us? Someone who tries to take advantage of a system that cost's us money? Someone who knows they'll never feel sorry when crap hits the fan? It's a rather convenient excuse saying go to Ombudsman's etc, when we here could make the difference. :<

That's disgusting. He isn't cool at all.

When I got my car tuned the first time, it broke a RIGHT HAND drive shaft during their test drive. Without charge they jacked it up back at the shop and spend a deal of time trying to find the cause of the issue. (Engine mounts) However, what broke the mounts? Since (when it came back) then the car dragged to one side and the wheel was out of alignment. As soon as I left I noticed it and turned around and went back to complain. The LEFT HAND tierod is stuffed. So, I tried to picture what happened: He possibly floored out of a U-Turn and hit the gutter with my front left wheel, stuffing the tie rod, breaking an already possibly weak engine mount, and breaking the shaft. Because the broken shaft and tierods are on opposite sides, and it was only on the dyno for 4 hours, the whole time under my supervision. (IE: They didn't have it for days, I came and left with the car on the same day.) There is no point trying to make a claim though, but do tierods go from tight, to loose (and needing replacement) after a 10km drive without colliding with something? While at the same time breaking a mount and drive shaft? Sorry but claiming this kind of thing won't happen. I suggest to ALL who love their cars, to be there when it's worked on/ran on dyno. If you're possibly going to lose an engine worth $30k+ in one day, it's worth that day off work to communicate and deal with the tuner. Now although most tuners would already check themselves, but did your friend/you mention that it's running stock injectors etc? Communication is PARAMOUNT. My tuner had an issue, and instead of spending 20 mins chasing it down, he asked me a simply question (which I could answer) and he had the problem fixed in 30 seconds. Communicate, ask questions. Get lots of printouts from the dyno, with HP/KW/Torque/RPM/AFR/Timing/etc etc etc. Really, a good tuner would give you these things to protect his ass. "Yes the AFR's were safe when it left, and you can see the dyno settings we used, etc" Sorry for the loss, but use this as a platform to learn.

They call it 'night shift'. I call it playing with death.

Tell them you want to do one of them victim impact sessions, where the victim meets the thieves and tells them how it affected their life, their getting to work, the value and love of their car. Sit there and rant on and on about how you go out there, working hard, saving up, you buy your (possibly dream) car only to have some low life f**kwit come and take it from you. That person may as well make you slave work for them the whole time you saved for your car. That's what it's like, you work for ages, and have nothing to show for it now. Now if someone slave worked me, I'd kill them. But keep this in mind thieves, if you are reading. People like me don't catch you guys out and allow a chance. When I see a thief breaking into ANYONE's car/house. I'll think back to all the times it happened to me, and pound the shit out of them. Sure, it mightn't have been the right person, but you guys wanna play in the business of theft? There are risks, and you'll all get the same treatment from me. You won't have to worry about the cops coming, I will. You deceptive people are the bane of society.

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=254&page=1 All the same. Edit: Not sure about Stag, but if you gave Nissan a call with a VIN off a GTR and your Stag, they can check to see if the part numbers are the same for you, if they're nice. Or anyone with FAST can. Lol further edit: If FAST has the stags on it, should have with your year.

Don't they come on boost a few hundred RPM later though?

Yeah you'll need the wideband sensor, I think Bosch ones are around $100? You'd still need software which usually needs to be calibrated to the sensor. Even the LM has a calibration, although pretty easy to work with. One run on a dyno and they'll give you an accurate AFR, they can do a flow test while under load, and might even find other issues you didn't even know about. My Stato pump died recently, I jumpered the relay and got under it, accidentally bumping the fuel tank, and it started again. Turns out they often have a crap connection in the tank. Good too, because I despise working on fuel tanks. Edit: And with audible pinging, aint that pretty high on the 'ping' scale?