GTRPowa

Convincing thread..... ....I'm going to remove my 100mm FMIC and just plumb the turbos straight to the intake. ---- Look it's as simple as this. When you move large amounts of air, it heats. What??!?! Yes. Ever felt the air coming from a vacuum? Or compressor piping? Turbo charge follows the same princible. Now as you compress more and more air, it gets hotter. Sure, physically hot turbos are also a factor, but lets put that aside for now. Now, cold air has a higher density. So more oxygen atoms can fit in the same cubic foot of air. Since the limitation of power is (usually) how much air we can fit in the engine, having a cooler charge temperature will increase power once you tune the fuel map to reflect the change in oxygen density. In a sense, it's like upping the boost by a minute amount. Also, having a cooler intake charge will mean you can somewhat advance the timing, and again, make even more safe power. If your intercooler isn't up for the job. The heated charge air will be hotter going in, hotter during combustion, and hotter coming out. This physically heats the turbo, and the charge air is now hotter again. That hot air goes back in, becomes even hotter, etc. I proper sized intercooler will stabilise this. You don't buy an intercooler to make big power, but to make safe big power. It's that simple.

If you read up on Chernobyl, they didn't even make a mention to the public about the disaster until another Nuclear Plant 1000km away detected up the radiation. They initially couldn't find a leak in their plant, so they started tracing outwards. As they did this the Soviet government admitted there had been an accident. Every government plays anything they can down. If you think they tell the truth in the face of disaster, get real. The more they admit, the more money they will lose in the long run to people seeking compensation. eg: What if we never found out about Chernobyl, as in, somehow it never got noticed or reported to us. People would be dying of radiation sickness, the government would play it as a new form of plague or something else, and they don't have to compensate. Admit the least at the last second. "The nearby city of Pripyat was not immediately evacuated after the incident. Only after radiation levels set off alarms at the Forsmark Nuclear Power Plant in Sweden,[35] over one thousand kilometers from the Chernobyl Plant, did the Soviet Union admit that an accident had occurred. Nevertheless, authorities attempted to conceal the scale of the disaster. For example, while evacuating the city of Pripyat, the following warning message was read on local radio: "An accident has occurred at the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant. One of the atomic reactors has been damaged. Aid will be given to those affected and a committee of government inquiry has been set up." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chernobyl_disaster Even burning graphite right in your face doesn't seem to ring alarm bells when it concerns the public..

I habitually let the clutch out without any accell at all. Lightened flywheels will jerk the car more, from personal experience. But in the hands of a person who uses some gas with the clutch, they probably wouldnt notice it, no. I think the initial reason for lightened flywheels was to try and sync the engine revs with your gear change speed. Since racers generally change through gears faster, having the engine drop revs faster will help with shifting, saves planting the clutch to get the engine (spinning at 8000) to match the clutch (spinning at 5000)

Dick offset: 15:1.

Sorry mate, it's a forum.

+1. Put a single on either, nice set of cams+exhaust, and it'll sound great.

Yeah post was removed. I didn't remove it though. Freedom of speech is unorstalyan.

Yeah I once ran a commodore diff with no fluid. It started whining bad and you could feel the car slowing down and crap. Once I bothered to put fluid in, and drove it out for a few hundred k's, the whining stopped on accelleration, and only made noice on decell. Same thing here, but opposite. You're getting the noise on accell to the diff. I'd say you have a little chunk of a tooth missing on a diff gear myself. If that's the case, you can probably drive the noise away over time, just change the fluid to get any shavings out. Thats the lazy way. From personal experience. Enjoy.

Yeah, that's because someone will put up an opinion, and someone else has to quote them, knock them down, before providing their own opinion. That will start an argument almost every single time. Why? Possibly their both right in their own way, possibly they've seen both setups work, possibly each of them owns the opposing setup, and think it's the ONLY way. I've seen exploding stock flywheels, I've seen exploding lightened flywheels. I've also seen MOST stock flywheels handle any abuse, and I've also seen MOST lightened flywheels handle any abuse. So who's right here? It's about mass opinion, and mass experience. The OP didn't ask for one person's opinion, hell he probably already knows that both setups have pro's and cons. So help the guy instead of pissing on. However, if people weren't so critical of others all the time, we wouldn't see such defensive action. It should be as simple as posting opinions, one after another, the thread would b clean with only opinion, and you could weight the results from there. Now I'm no clutch/flywheel expert, but one thing I'm good at is picking up personas over the internet quickly. (Being solidly online, everyday, for over 15-16 years will do that to a guy) Everyone just needs to relax. State your opinion as requested by the OP, and have it at that. Kdone, kgood, klul. I could paste this shit in every 3rd thread, anywhere at all, on the internet. Trying to imagine how self centered the next set of kids we'll see online over the next 10 years will be...

You got lucky. Yesterday this fell out of my car. Trying to work out if it's from my car, or a piece of junk picked up off the road. :<

^ 1 problem with 3 easy solutions. 1: Use pliers when grabbing their hands loose. That or a set of tin snips will suffice. 2: Does your work car reach speeds over 200km/h? It's hard holding on at those kinds of speeds. 3: Let them hang off the car for a few kilometers, hope they have a good sense of direction.

Probably dead alternator. How it died would be debatable. Possibly something in the starter solonoid shorted the starter cable (hence giving your battery a horrible odour) - Then the short also may have somehow killed the rectifier in the alternator. I'd be testing by running the car on jumper ldeas, measure the voltage across your battery, keep measuring while you remove the jumper leads, and observe a change in voltage. If the voltage drops, you have alternator problems. Testing the starter would be a lot harder since it's an intermittent fault.

This thread has too much colour to agree with it all, but I'd like to highlight something: Pez started this thread off, not naming companies and individuals (probably for several reasons) - and a few 'professional internet detectives' have taken it upon themselves to dig up info/photos/company names and now everyone's throwing shit at them. I mean, if I paid SureFlo for an exhaust to be mailed and they never mailed it, I CAN'T come on here naming (and making defamatory remarks about) their company even though they black and white stole from me with intention. But in this FAR LESS sinister case, we have a bunch of kids (prove by example you are not) unrelated to the incident going around sending emails to companies and trying to make a big deal of this, naming people on the forum here, etc. Most of the crap wouldn't have happened if this forum wasn't used as a communication platform for everyone to find out who's involved. You can't deny it, just read from page 1 and watch it develop. This thread was about helping Pez out with getting a car on the road. It was NOT about pinpointing blame, naming companies and invidivuals, creating lynch mobs, and sending companies emails. Now it's escalated from a call for help to an argument involving the company owner. It's unfortunate what happened, whether it was before or after the fact people can't hold themselves back and just let the thread follow the course the OP designed it to have. -- This thread is another showcase of the childish behaviour of certain members. This forum is going to shit. Admins should lock this thread and remove all the trash. Sorry to all people SPECIFICALLY involved in the addicent.

You always think you've been in the best, until you sit in something better. My friend thought he was cool with his VK, then he got a a VL, then a VN, wow 3.8!!!1 - Then a VR oh hell!! The whole time he verbally shat on any import. Calling GTR's and JZA80's 'rice' He now owns a JZA80 2J, and thinks all commodores and GTR's are shit. (Still hasn't even been in a GTR.) Like sands in the hourglass.

A heat gun will remove anything Then eucalyptus will remove the sticky crap. However there is no harm in trying it out how you have it. - I've always wondered if you'd get superior bass (SPL wise) if you had the box mounted deep in the boot, subs facing backwards in a ported box with ports tuned to come through the parcel shelf. Doo it Only way you'd truly know (again SPL wise) would have been doing a road test with sound proofing everywhere cept between cab and boot, with a dB meter. Then testing again WITH proofing between can and boot. I like how thorough you've been, the mid and top end should sound great. Get road tyres that focus on low noise as well?

We only recently had another yarn about using solid percentages for drivetrain losses. If your transmission was sucking up 300hp (<<what you're saying) it would be melting by final gear. I know of at least one thread with pages of debate over it, and apparently there are more here as well. But in relation to car/engine point scoring, here's how it works for me: MY car gives ME a hard on knowing it's sitting in MY driveway. I drive MY car around and I feel good. I take MY car around corners, and that feels good to ME as well.. My point is, I don't care what anyone else thinks. If that mattered so much, I'd be driving a VE SS with 20" black and chrome rims. << And swallowing the vomit in my mouth everytime I see it in the driveway. If personality wasn't a factor, there would be one manufacturer out there making 5 cars. A small hatch, a sedan, a ute, a wagon, and a 4x4. All in the same colour.

In regards to bonnet flex: I haven't been in a car with a CF bonnet at high speeds, but I've seen a few videos. The bonnets flex in the middle so much it looks like they're about to fly away lol.

I'd be inclined to sound proof the whole boot (if weight isn't a question) and leave between the boot and cabin. In some areas of high panel resonance I'd heard of people slicking weights to the resonating area with a strong 3M tape to change the resonant frequency to something that isn't as affected by road noise. Dunno if it works but, haven't seen any true test results.

Agreed. Had the same problem myself. It'll probably be a coil pack. But as Ben said a quick visual of injector plugs as well might show something obvious. But commonly it's a dead coilpack.

Is someone going around offering people free 150k cars? No? Well, GT-R it is then. Pure beast. And my 5L Stato to get to work. Pure crapheap. You can feel the weight in the steering and brakes. Reminds you of how dangerous the car would be sideways at high speed. Keeps me in check. ---- If someone IS throwing around massive amounts of money for free, I'd still probably choose a GTR over a Ferrari. Why? It's my preference. It's why there are so many manufacturers making cars out there year after year. People buy them. From the Getz, to the Lanos, to a GTR, to a Ferrari. I'm also keeping in mind how easily parts for a Ferrari are to find. GTR's are hard yeah, but honestly, nowhere near as bad. Think how many mechanics fix them, how much will that cost? Scratch the paint? How much will that cost? Not to mention, everytime I see a Ferrari, I think the driver is a cock. Why? No reason at all besides they spent a lot of money for something that provides _pretty much_ everything a GTR could. Oh, the chicks on the corner dig red Ferrari's? - That's simply because they don't understand cars, so to fit in, they like "Big red loud fast cars" - gg. The ones who honestly DO understand cars, don't go out there and buy a Ferrari. They don't. Edit: If I had $20,000,000 resting in a bank. Ok sure, I might waste some money on a Ferrari then... But I don't. Further Edit: ^ Even then, I'd only have to car to impress the people who click when you say "I own a red Ferrari" - Like a friend I once knew, used to tell the chicks at the club to come home with him in his Porsche...... 914......

That was cool man.

Have you tried to error check the drive? Bring up Command Prompt and type chkdsk d: /r (where d would be your broken HDD letter.) It'll either fail or succeed. If it fails, next best bet is look at http://www.grc.com/sr/spinrite.htm - Or seek pro advice.

Shit I didn't realise it was cool to hate Facebook: Nevermind, I was only desperately trying to log on so I could delete my account. Yeah. Facebook is ass. End.

Yeah but if you truly lose <10kw why would you do it? skidz? Only time I've pulled fuse was driving home with a broken front drive shaft. (Mounts) - Mind you, it DID take me a few months to fix it..

Further reading on trash forums, I found a bright spark with a convincing way of saying the drive train losses are fixed, what with all the articles/forum threads around talking about percentage losses. Eg: You might make 200kw at the engine, and 140kw at the wheels. Then if you make 400kw at the engine, you'll make around 340kw at the wheels. Excuse the fact some of you probably know this, but I'd assume lots of people (myself included) think about fixed percentages. And if that's the case, then the AWD mode on GTR's would used a fixed amount, instead of a percentage too. The pieces come together! Edit: Excuse the fact if it's posted somewhere here, but I haven't seen it, and in fact, I've never read it this way until today... And I read forums a bit too..