GTRPowa

http://www.nengun.com/knight-sports/metal-super-catalyzer Beast of a cat. Running 300awkw, no end in sight. Bit costly but you get what you pay for.

Failtroll for "Ah, you got me."

MBS: I can't believe you are an Executive when you behave like that. You are being an unruly child and you seem to go from thread to thread looking to start shit. You seem to be able to serve but not receive. So as you plainly pointed out, it's the Naturally Aspirated "PERFORMANCE" section. Meanwhile you tatter on about the lack of performance they have. Once again, you point out it's the "NATURALLY ASPIRATED" Perfomance section. So why are you here always throwing up negative feedback, or just being a downright retards towards people. I'd assume from your attitude that your car is a turbo? I'll get onto that later. I see cheap China crap on Skylines, Supras, Corollas, Commodores, Falcons, Civics, MX's, etc etc etc, I'm not naming almost every model of car that's affordable to young people. Your ability to itemise statistics fails. So if a year ago, every 'noob' and his dog was giving you so much apparent abuse to cause you that much pain that you'd invest time coming here to bitch heavily, how is any new user supposed to cushion into the SAU community with fools like you gallivanting around (as an Executive) showing them what long term, regular users (and Executives alike) act like? People like you are sending this forum to shit. Eventually it'll just be the same 30 trolls. It's already the case, really. What car do you own? You wrote car in the car field mate, we know it's a car, what is it. Do you own a Skyline at the moment? See what I'm getting at here? Participate in a positive manner, or just don't participate. I tell ya there's a few people in the club that most would love to knock out. You sir, are one of them. Only because you act like such a wad. Get real and let everyone have a chat. You, and others like you, are the reason I have moved largely away from the forum, and the reason why I won't sign up to the club. It's a good club ruined by retards (like you) who look for trouble. It's the internet version of what you'd be a victim of out the front of a club. Then again, it would be good being a member of the club you exec, I'd have a better chance of meeting you in person, buddy. ---- Now that's been said. Go ahead, all the other turbo owning trolls from the wasteland. PM each other, gang up, hook line sinker, etc etc. Come in, have your little go, make a huge deal out of it. Bring your friends in here, make a scene out of nothing. You guys are professionals at it with all the time you invest, must be great experience. Meanwhile the people in question are the type of cockless wankers who won't say a peep when you meet them in real life. You're that phalically insecure that you can't live life by making yourself better, so you go around trying to lower everyone else below you. Eat shit and die, no really. Go ahead, get mad, and come at me. It's nothing new, I've said this in people's defence time and time again. Each day that one of you wraps yourself around a pole, a cloud dematerialises, and the day becomes brighter. Now I've used basic fact in almost everything that I've said as you can see by evidence in this thread, amongst others. I look forward to reading all the incoherent, baseless, childish replies tomorrow. ---- To the NA owners: Sorry for me coming in here and adding to the bullshit but it's a common sight and it's rather irritating because it simply puts a wall between everybody. I also apologise for the turbo skyline owners who are actually decent people, I wouldn't like to see any kind of stereotyping, the same way that MBS and others have done to you unfortunately. See, it used to be about Ford vs Holden. Then it was Imports vs Domestics. Then it was Skylines vs Supras. Now, within the same Skyline family, it's a serious bitching contest between turbo and non turbo. And the only reason it's like that, is because these phallically insecure turbo owners feel the need to make themselves look better. Hey, maybe they think they are 'super street' - Who knows, I'm not one of them. Take care. <3

Mine makes the exact same noise. (Makes the sound as soon as you turn the key from START back to ON.) It's the starter. If you let it go for a while longer (few months) it'll start skipping mesh and eventually take out a gear tooth.

Righto Fanboi. How about you now go into every other thread where someone's broken the law and everyone's bagged them out and preach the same shit? As in, the other 95% of the "I've broken the law" threads. We've established the same facts in many other threads, read their contents and the end result. Your 1 sidedness in regards to this one very specific issue both amuses and sickens me. There is no need to bag the OP out, but there was no need to bag every other OP out either. Everyone's attitude has been moulded by fags on here preaching the same shit over and over, if you can't handle that, go and change the whole forum, member by member, good luck with that. Actively defending the guy makes you look just as much of a tosser. This thread should be laid to rest. And I agree Nismoid. The laws aren't about safety at all. We should all do 40km/h over and not crash for 2 weeks, that'll prove speeding is safe right? I mean we have people here who can't manage their speed with the throttle. Why would we allow them to travel 40km/h over? The thought of these slow reacting people negotiating a corner at speed bewilders me. And the other R35 owner talking about his R35's are 'so easy to speed in' - Just keep in mind that many others here have 32/3/4's that are as fast, or faster than the R35, so talking about how it's so easy to end up 40km/h over is utter bullshit.

After a turbo install mine idled fine, got rich, started a splutter, died on the road, would not restart. Would start the next day but only for a few seconds. Then dies everytime, etc. For me it was the CAS sensor. From what I remember is has triggers for both ignition and fuel. Replacing CAS with a mates and didn't fix, but after some muddling around it came down to a bad connection in the plug. Some contact cleaner, my old CAS back in, and she's run fine ever since. I never would have originally blamed the CAS because I figured if CAS was dead, car would never have started at all. How it turned into a very gradual misfire and an eventual engine death is beyond me. Check your PFC when you crank the car, you should see the revs at like 160-200 rpm or so. If it stays at 0RPM during crank, it's most possibly your CAS, or related connections. Good luck.

32GTR Parts: (RB26) 2x Stock AFM's $299 6x Stock Injectors $349 Mines Computer $260 2x Stock Turbos $399 2x Stock Dumps $149 No parts damaged or defected for their age. Even turbos in rather good condition. All available on eBay. I dont know how, or care to know how to remove a listing early off eBay, so if you want the parts, they're up there for the same prices posted here. Someone delete my account. tata.

For only street driving you probably wouldn't want a 5 puck since they don't like being slipped and burn easily. For only street driving what you're after is a clutch with organic friction plate. Like the HD, or HDCB types. HD looks like a normal clutch, HDCB is like your 5 puck, but with organic friction material between the pucks too, to make them more streetable.

32 GTR's (dunno bout the rest) have that issue with the dry joins on the actuator. Search for the 'paper trick' - should be able to find the thread. This basically means whereever the air mix door was when the dry joint occured, it's stuck there till you fix, search for it, I had this problem. 32 GTR's (dunno bout the rest) also have the cabin air temp sensor directly behind the fascia that goes aorund the centre console (radio, climate, etc) - Remove the facia and check the sensor at the bottom right is plugged in, and the hose behind it is connected to it to draw air through it. Also had this problem. Now my aircon rocks. But my clutch sucks. :<

CCTV timelapse stored incar. If car moves by GPS, vibrates, is tilted or power supply voltage fluctuates, it sends last 20-30 mins of limelapse over 3G then continues reporting CCTV and GPS location in realtime over 3G. You'll have the vehicles direction, cctv footage of people possibly scoping earlier, gps location, last location, everything. Battery backup, stickers, obvious mounted cameras. The little flashing red light doesn't mean shit anymore. You can't trust the public, the towy will just say "Yeah the owner told me the alarm would go off, idiot lost his keys" or whatever excuse works at the time to keep public at bay. Honestly, when's the last time you EVER saw a towy taking a car and thought 'WTF! GET HIS DETAILS!' Never. Or as Mohsen said, massive chain onto a massive pylon. Sure it's crude, but it's the next best thing. Longterm solution - Bash any towy ever caught trying to steal a car. And bash him to the point where the papers and other towy thieves hear about it. Then bash alr33x for his (as always) positive role in discussions.

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-' timestamp='1301282150' post='5733839] so S1 r33 gtst cant use them? You should be able to get anything in the list above as well. Give or take clamp loads, which Exedy doesn't seem to provide for all of them so it's hard to compare that. Edit: Has anyone used a Safari Tuff clutch in a Skyline?

Don't know anybody from there. But what's wrong with it? I've had 4WD/Hicas sensor problems before.

Sup man check out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/35129-im-buying-a-skyline-what-should-i-look-for/

..A forum search of Nur would bring this up as the second result: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/358649-02-r34-gtr-nur-on-carsales/

This reminds me of crows flying around a dying (almost to be) corpse.

Going to add some useful information re: Exedy part numbers. - Then see if someone can shed some more light on this. In regards to FITMENT, all of these clutches should be interchangable: NSK-7056 - Used in R31 RB20's and R33 GTS-T's NSK-6797 - Used in R31 RB30E's and VL commodores, various Navara's and a Cabstar. NSK-7121 - Used in R32 GTR's (earlier models with push type clutch) NSK-6151 - Used in MQ L28 Patrols, and the GQ Y60 RB30 Patrol Now each clutch is available in it's different forms below: (Using NSK-6797 as an example) OEM Replacement: NSK-6797 Sports Tuff (Pink) Series: NSK-6797HD - Heavy Duty NSK-6797HDB - Heavy Duty Button NSK-6797HDCB - Heavy Duty Cushion Button Racing Clutch: NSK-6797SO - Sports Organic NSK-6797SC - Sports Ceramic NSK-6797RC - Race Ceramic Safari Tuff: NSK-6797ST - Very close to Sports Organic. Read below. Now with all the variations of clutch set in this way you can see they come under certain groups. This is how Exedy sets them out on the website. Now if you read the description on the HD clutches, it doesn't mention anything about anti-burst pressure plates, etc. It pretty much says the plate comes with more clamp force and that's all. Now read up on the Racing Clutch series, they start here with spheroidal graphite pressure plate castings, and additional drive straps to prevent bursting at high RPM. So until you reach this series, all the talk about exploding clutches should be a moot point. Race series comes with usually at least 3 choices. The first being organic friction plate with the same design as OEM or HD so you'll get great driveablility out of them. Keeping all this in mind, now go read up on the Safari Tuff cluches. They boast the same increased clamping force as the Racing Series, they also have the same anti burst pressure plate design as the race series, with an organic clutch plate, again like the Sports Organic in the Racing Series. I have found Safari Tuff clutches that will fit for $450odd. Besides a weaker spring setting (that doesn't mean weaker springs like they will break) I don't see really any difference between them. Now if Patrol clamp loads are high than Skylines OEM (someone mentioned this, but is it true?), you can expect the Safari Tuff would outperform every other Organic clutch option that's availalable to fit. The only thing you wouldn't want to do is huge AWD launches because of the weaker spring. But then when you think about 2000-3000kg 4WD's doing hill starts on rocky surfaces, these clutches aren't princesses anyways. It's been years now, even the cheaper HD Patrol (NSK-6151HD I assume) clutches aren't exploding, even without their anti burst casing. So whadda ya's think? The price of a Sports Organic Race Clutch is well over double the price, all for some spring settings? I think when you put the word Skyline on something the price doubles. /rant <opinions>

So if anyone ever catches a Towy taking your car, you confront tham and they say "Oh! Sorry! I was asked by a customer to pick it up! Oh wait there's the car I want." Make sure you get every particular detial you can get. Towies have been in the business for many years, they don't make mistakes.

Number Plate: GTR-PWA State: NSW Car Colour: Gunmetal ^^ Seen this guy getting around with speaker poppin doof doof (dubz) picking up barely legal skags from West St, Umina. As he drove past he gave me some kind of weird hand signal, almost looked like a waterpipe. Report it please.

Number Plate: RBT State: NSW Car Colour: Blue ^^^ I've seen this vehicle at speeds over 180km/h on the Freeway. Report it please.

Germany. Fast Road(s) Fast Internet(s) Hottie(s)

Do you have bigger pics?

What I posted wasn't off the top of my head. It's fact. Actually, a line or two I pulled from another document relating to thermal dynamics. Painting aluminium flat black will increase it's ability to themally radiate. Yes, you're right there. But. In coating aluminium in paint (even a thin layer) you reduce it's ability to thermally conduct. Aluminium heatskinks (including intercoolers, they are part of this family) are designed for thermal conduction, not thermal radiation. The only time a heatsink uses thermal radiation is if there is no airflow. Nobody cares how many kW you're gonna get idling in heavy traffic. Thermal conduction begins when the car moves... And I'll guess most of the time you're on boost will be with the car moving. Having a black intercooler achieves a much more standard, factory look. It does NOT increase cooling efficiency trhough conduction. Back then the majority of cars had painted black copper/steel radiators. Now we use unpainted aluminium. We didn't see the radiator before, we hardly see them now, so why the change? Copper is even better at thermal conduction than aluminium too, but price and weight, it's not worth the extra 20% conduction you get from it. Another example is oldschool hot water radiators people would have outside to generate heat. They'd paint them black to absorb the radiant heat, which creates more heat. It also helps to block thermal conduction, again, increasing the heat further. Have a read on thermal dynamics, it's got all the info right there.

They just called it dangerous/negligent driving. Technically you can be charged for negligent driving even if your mirrors aren't adjusted properly. Ignore the trolls, forum filling with prepubescent tards. 8ish seconds.

In regards to black intercoolers it's simple thermal dynamics: If your heat sink will work in the air flow of a fan, the contribution of radiation will be extremely small, compared to the effect of conduction. So, it's best to leave the aluminum bare, as any layer of black paint, with its lower thermal conductivity, will hamper the conduction of heat from aluminum to air more than it may help by increasing radiation. In other words, don't paint an intercooler if you want the best results. It's a well known fact aluminium oxidizes and corrodes over time, and paint can increase longevity. So why don't the smart, highly paid engineers paint them?