muchogarcia34

hey all. Just want to see if a R33 25det head will fit onto a neo block? I'm not sure if any of the oil galleries and water galleries match up and just want know if it's all good. My neo head is f**ked and I've got a 33 head available so just want to get it done.

Can anyone tell me if there are any fouling issues with the RB30 sump into a R34. The guide says that with the 32's and 33's it's fine but nothing about 34's. I won't need to drop the engine any lower either as I'm not running the standard plenum.

What engine series are these for?

I've got a ca pump at my mates house. $50

Peak fuel is watered down and shit I swear to god, makes everything run horrible. Whenever I buy new trucks they always advise me against using Peak fuel as it f**ks up fuel systems.

Did they use the proper fitting for the top of the pump? The picture makes it look like the hose is just pushed on and clamped.

Hi guys, I've been searching for an R34 GTR lip for my car. I have the V-Spec II diffuser but I need the lip to go between. Any thoughts as to where I can get one, and I don't mind if it's fibreglass or anything like that, as long as the diffuser will attach to it. Thanks

I've got one ready to go. If u have no luck pm me

Hey guys. Had a tomei 1.2mm metal head gasket on my rb25neo and after a week the timing belt slipped and I had to remove the head to fix the valves. I've been told you can re-use them by a couple of people, I was just wondering what you guys think?

The guide is just so vague with everything. I mean it helps a fair bit with what fits what and so on, but when it comes to the finer things it sort of tells you how to get it done but not really. If I really want to learn how to do this I want to get experiences from others and how they went about it. I mean the guide still says NEO heads may have different oil and water galleries and hasn't been updated so how can I rely on that when going down this path. If there is any more detailed information available could someone please post a link. Thanks

How do you do the external oil feed. I've been trying to find pictures and information but I must be stupid and can't find anything.

So what was the prognosis with doing this to a NEO head? Can it be done or is there another way?

This is why I ask. I read that thread and you can't do the same thing with the NEO head.

Quick question that I wanna just check on. If I use aftermarket cam gears I won't have to drill an oil feed for the VVT right? I can just chuck the cam gears on and voila?

I read the PDF but it is pretty vague in some areas and left me with a few questions which I'm trying to search now. It doesn't really say anything about Neo heads at all. At first it says that he will check if there are any differences between the Neo head and the 33 head but that's it. He doesn't report back on it or anything. Unless I'm reading the wrong one.

Hey guys thanks for the input! I've decided to go 30 After reading your input and then discussions with a few people it seems a waste to put the 25 back in when I want to build a 30 anyway. I would just be installing the 25 so I could drive the car again, but I've got another car to get around in anyway. I was happy with the power but you know it never hurts to have a little more And the workshop is my families so as long as I keep the area clean and keep most of the stuff out the way they're cool with it. Now I've read up on the 30 conversion and there are a few things I'm unsure about. If anyone can help with the following that would be great. First off the pdf says that I must plumb in a new oil line to feed the VCT, what exactly do I have to do to plumb that in? And the other side of it is, can I just run a set Tomei Cam Gears and just not worry about it. I have a set of poncams which were in the 25 that just died so I was gonna re-use those. The next thing is the guide says that 25 Neo head may be different from the 33 25 head, is this true or is it all good to just block off the VCT oil feed and bolt on, so to speak. Thanks guys and I'll keep you updated as I go, and any help along the way would be greatly appreciated.

Well I installed the tensioners and idle. The tuner checked it but I think it's just unlucky that the bearing failed.

Hey guys, Just looking for a bit of advice as I'm not sure what I should do. So here's the story. I recently picked up my R34 from my tuner after months of work and waiting. Car was running great didn't miss a beat and I was happy with it..... until yesterday afternoon when my idle tensioner thingy failed and slipped the timing belt off to the side, ended up smashing the valves into the pistons and just f*cking everything. So I have 2 choices. I have 1 spare RB25DET Neo around my place and also a RB30 from a R31 Skyline, I can either just straight up swap out engines or use my other 25 head and go 30. Now the little things. I am running a R34 specific Vi-Pec, will I be able to run the 30 with this and not have many problems? My second dilemma, how much work and time is involved into getting the 30 bolted up and ready to go. The only reason I ask this is because I need to get the car working again as it's taking up a heap of room at my work and things are gonna start getting lost and damaged and not to mention constricts our work space. So any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. I'm just looking for a bit of advice as mentioned, the car will be mainly street driven but it will see the track as I want to drift and complete some grip events. Thanks Dan

All the piping work for mine was completed by Pro Race and they changed the BOV position so I'm not too sure how much work will have to be done to plumb it back in. Some other little things include extending the wiring for the TPS because obviously the TB is in a completely different position and also fitting up the Idle Control piping.

I've got a Plazmaman in my 34 and it's great. But make no mistake it is a bitch to fit up, the bolts are just really hard to get to as it doesn't end up leaving you a great deal of room to work around. Oh and you will also have to move your fuse box out of the way as it will foul the Throttle Body.

I have a mate that will changing his CA out of his S13 in a couple of months. I'll let him know your on the lookout and get him to give you a message over here.

Well that sucks................ I'll have to change that................ So do I just take one of the lines to the standard connection point on the intake

For my water line I used the water feed just under the stock one on the turbo side of the engine. It had a plug in it so I removed it and my lines tapped straight in. Will this be okay?

Alrighty I have a second one of these, earlier model it has a silver face instead of red, and it has the same stock codes and looks exactly the same. Except the flywheel. The red Nismo clutch sits inside the flywheel, but the silver faced Nismo clutch sits on top of the flywheel, the centre section of the flywheel is raised out a little bit where the plates sit. No when I install the clutch onto the flywheel it really pushes the fingers on the clutch out and makes it look wrong. I've never installed one so I don't know if the fingers are supposed to pull right out or not. I would imagine that they would be recessed and the clutch fork would pull them right out. What I'm thinking is that the flywheel may be the wrong type and is making the fingers pull out. Or maybe I'm completely wrong and its all good, what do you guys think? I hope I'm making sense............

Sweet. Thanks guys