hitnrun

Donuts mmmmmmmm *drools* I find that donuts make me fat hence I have a higher level of traction, but sacrifice some acceleration.

Well I finally finshed IWD and have started on IWD 2. I must say I don't like it as much as BG2, however the 3 Ed rules rock. I love the feats and skills, much more balanced. Not enough storyline and to much dungeon plodding and no interesting quests for me, but still seeing it is probably the last D&D game black isle will produce for a while it will have to do. Apart from that the game is pretty tight. I am trying it with a party of 3, they were damn right when they said it was designed for 4-6 characters, however I am leveling pretty quickly, so it's all sweet. Oh well, I am getting a steering wheel soon, so I can play GP4 properly.

Hey Joe (hmm just like that Jimi Hendrix song ahemmm anyway) If the indicators flash when you activate your alarm, but not from the dash it could be one of two things (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong) 1. Fuses - the alarm might wire directly into the indicators, meaning that they don't use the fuse, not good but you never know. 2. A short or break in the wiring. Seeing as neither hazards nor indicators work, the short/break would probably be near the bulbs themselves. Check their first before pulling the dash out. I would check all (yes all ) fuses, then if that doesn't help get out the multimeter. It shouldn't be a major problem because the indicators themselves obviously work. Apart from that I can't be more specific. I would be trying fuses first as that is free, and replacing fuses in like 30cents. If not look for some obvious signs of shorting or broken wires, then call a mate or an auto electrician Cheers, Tim

Hey everyone thanks for all you replies and suggestions on how to fix the surging, jumpy motion of my car. This was the problem All I did was set the timing to 25BTDC. That's it, couldn't believe the power differnece and the smoothness all the way up to redline. It definitely wasn't a boost or fuel cut as I thought. (obviously if you run mad boost you will hit that as well though) For others with similar problems here are also some very helpful suggestions I received. Change/clean spark plugs - mine were rooted. Also gap them at 0.8 Take an accurate boost measurement Airflow metres - sometimes they can stuff up and the cause some major problems. Once again thanks to DAMQIK for solving the problem and for all the helpful ideas. Keep it up. Cheers, Tim

PR33N STR33K

Hi Doc, I have only recently started putting octane booster in, and that has helped immensely. DAMQIK is currently checking all his electric as he feels thats where the problems lies in his car. If it is we will give it a go on mine. Cheers, Tim PS I do realise that I should bite the bullet and buy new plgus anyway, but at the moment they are all AOK, so I'm hoping I can hold off buying them for a few months

Yeah I know what you mean, awesome feeling when you finish a game totally, even more so when you're at work. Problem is now, work seems so mundane after playing games. I have had heard mixed reviews about WC3, as a rule, I don't really like RTS games as much. What is your thoughts, and why was it so addictive (to be playing at work)? Cheers, Tim

I'll pop around tomorrow after work. prolly about 3pm-ish

And damn wasn't it a tough gemmi. :uh-huh: Yes you will certainly get the popping. The sound is simply a backfire, but because of the larger pipe/resonators it makes a deeper sound

Yeah if I hold my foot flat it enventually gets to like 5800-6000rpm or so and then it is fine until the limiter. I have been putting in 2 bottles of nulon octane booster every tank and after about 3 tanks it is now drastically better. It still surges but a lot gentler. Damn expensive, but better. One thing we could try would be swapping a/f metres and seeing what that does. Tim

Thanks for the replies guys. At this stage I think I will check/clean/replace my spark plugs first, and then try swappping in a mates a/f metre and see if that does the trick. With regards to over fuelling, definitely seems to be a possibility, Also makes sense why a stock skyline can only get 200km out of a tank on 98ron and octane boost. I will investigate a bit further tomorrow and see what happens. If it's no go I think I'll buy a hardcore 180sx and.... nah, not a chance

Awesome, Now I can live out my weird dreams about Drows and..... oh sorry I will stop now :eek: After playing it for a while is the game worth buying? Is it a whole new game, or more like an expansion for IWD? I have every single game in the Baldur's Gate series and I love em dearly, but I haven't had time to finish ICEWIND Dale 1 yet, in fact I don't think I made it past the second town with the bloody huge tree. Is there any significant differences to BG2 Thone of Bhaal? Does it use D&D 3rd ed rules? Me thinks I will have get back into it. I have been busy lately and it kind of wrecks things when you play 3 days straight. :uh-huh: I still have yet to start on Morrowind, plus GP4 is calling. Damn I can't wait until Christmas hols are on! Cheers, Tim

If you don't mind me asking, what did you get modified, was that what cause the surging, or was it simply conicidence. If it is simply the airflow, would it be possible to grab a second hand one from a wrecker. Can anyone confirm this. On a side note I have removed the a/f and cleaned/sprayed it with contact cleaner, but didn't seem to help. One thing I forgot to mention before was that if it doesn't always happen. On a few occasions it has not surged and has accelerated nicely up to 7000rpm. Sometimes it only surges lightly. I have also noticed that it MIGHT be worse in cold air/at night. Hmmm. Also when I have whacked in a few hundred bottles of octane boost in the one tank it doesn't seems to happen/be as bad. Not sure though as I have tested this thoroughly yet. It it timing possibly? Tim

Hey guys, I know that a lot of people have asked this question, but I am still not sure on a couple of things. When accelerating in any gear, if my right foot is flat it surges/misses (whatever you want to call it) at 4500rpm and agin at around 5000rpm. I have an aftermarket Boost guage, at most rpm it reads ~7psi, when the surging happens (or just before) it reads ~9psi. I can't always get it to hit 9psi only under very heavy load. It then drops down to 0psi and back up again. Now before everyone says my boost is wound up too high, and that it is hitting the boost limiter/cut - the car is 100% stock. Zorst, i/c, ecu, no BOV and I most definitely haven't change the boost. I have check the engine bay and I can't find a bleed valve or anything out of the ordinary, so I am assuming that it shouldn't be hitting a boost cut. Someone here mention that it could be spark plugs, I haven't checked them yet. So does anyone have any ideas on what to do about it. I did think that it might be a crack or something like that in the I/C or piping, but I don't really know. If it is, how do I check it? Where should I be taking boost measurements from As for the boost cut, the car doesn't perform anywhere near what I would expect it to if it was hitting the limiter. A mates Skyline with a turbosmart DSBC has had his wound up to ~12psi with no worries. Goes a frigging hell of a lot harder (admittable he has an exhaust etc, but still). In summary is anyone able to give me a run down/checklist of things to do. Off topic, but who in the Sunny Coast/Brissy area would mind giving me a hand/pointers/demo with the fine art of drift. I know sort of what to do, but until you really experience firsthand it is hard (for me) to put it all together. Anyway thanks in advance. Cheers, Tim

Great to see someone coming up to the coast for a cruise. There is some great roads going up and down the Range and out the back of Maleny that makle for a rather involving drive. Let us know next time your up, I live near Landsborough Cheers, Tim Oh and congrats on the car, looks very tight!

A short shifter is simply that, the distance between the pivot point and the gearknob is shorter. A quick shifter has the pivot point changed so the throw required to change gears is less as well as the stick being shorter, however it also means it is stiffer, or firmer to change. Most people prefer this and the difference is usually not that great. Imagine a see-saw with the hinge moved to one side. Same principle. Just think, all those physic's lessons are paying off If you have ever been in an excel with a really short gear stick, it usually means that is has had the top hacked off with a cheap fake momo glue back on top. If you have even driven a car like this you know that it makes changing gear really ****. Only spend money on a quick-shifter kit if you really need it. I mean the skyline shifters aren't too bad in the first place. The C's shifters use adapters to change the pivot point, another way of getting a shorter shifter is to remove the ball joint from the shifter and have it reattached futher along the stick. Anyway never complaint about the length of the Nissan shifter until you have driven old school 4wds. Most seem to have about 2.5metres of throw.

Ok PranK I have put up a post in Auto General, we will see how it goes. You are right, members can't lock threads. Cheers, Tim

This is the solution to when your fuel gauge shows full all the time. Thanks to MYGTST here is the soution to this problem: "The fuel guage in the tank is a float type. It falls off its mounting bracket quite easily. I found when mine did this all I had to do to fix this is to open the fuel tank from the boot and re-position the gauge. Here's how to fix this, but before you do this it's an idea to have an almost empty tank of fuel and to remove the battery completely to avoid sparks as you will be opening the fuel tank. Step1: Unscrew metal plate in boot on right hand side beside the strut tower. Step2 : Unclip all wires leading into fueal tank but leave hoses attached (no need to remove them). EDIT - I found it easier to undo them. Step3 : Unscrew the big plastic cap on the fuel tank be sure not to drop the rubber sealing ring into tank (plastic cap may need some gentle pressure to move). EDIT - This was extremly stiff on mine and I had to tap it off with a hammer and a chock of wood. Step 4 : Reach into bottom of fuel tank and find your guage. EDIT - On mine it was an orange float facing the front of the car. Step 5 : Just down and a little to the right of the fuel tank opening on the front wall is where the bracket is, bend the clip the gauge sits on a little to ensure it doesn't fall off again. Step 6 : Make sure all wires are attached to gauge and clip into place and also make sure you cant unclip it (I used some large zip ties to secure the gauge in place to make sure it doesn't come off again) Step 7 : Close fuel tank re-attatch all wires and put cover plate back on. Make sure tank is sealed and that you can no longer smell fuel vapours in the boot before re-installing the battery. Step 8 : Start her up and go to the servo fill up about 20 - 30 litres and make sure gauge works. All should be good now DISCLAIMER : !!!! I only recommend that people who are professional mechanics or who love to explode themselves and their car do this job. You will inhale a lot of fuel vapours doing this, so work in a ventilated area and take regular breaks. The smallest spark will blow you and your car up so be careful." Once again thanks to MYGTST and PVA_Glue for their help. Please don't reply to this post, this is supposed to be a solution only. If anyone would like discuss it, please do so in my previous post. Cheers, Tim

There should be a link right at the bottom of the page that says < Contact Us - Skylines Australia > Clicking on Skylines Australia will take you to the homepage.

Thanks for that Boostmeister, that's pretty much what I was thinking, hadn't though of locking the thread though, that would be a good idea. Like you said would stop a lot of the crap and also make the section smaller and more relevant. Thanks for the input guys. Tim

Yeah I guess it could get a bit large and bloated, I was sort of thinking more along the lines of - In the Post Subject is your problem, then in the message field you list what exactly was wrong/symptoms then you have a step by step on how to fix it. People would only post once their problem is fixed. This way people could browse a thread/section according to their problem, knowing that it would list symptons, so they knew that it was their problem and a step by step on how to fix. So anyone having hassles with a crook air con could see how to ix the temp sender etc. I know it probably wouldn't get off the ground/ at least not how I imagine it, just a pity to have to keep asking the same questions again because you can't find the old posts. Anyway, maybe the admins could cut/paste the useful stuff and lace it on the main website Dunno, it would be a lot of work, or like BrendanF suggested, would have to get different software. Cheers anyway and keep up the good work guys, Tim

I'm pretty sure they are H1's, but check first to make sure. Cheers

Hey guys, loving the forum so far, has been a great source of info. One thing I would love to see is a place where we can post our answers to the problems we had, sort of like a problem referal. I know that we can look back through the old posts, but they are starting to become quite large, and not everyone posts their answers to problems in the right places. I know this is a bit unclear so may be an example would help. I had a problem with my fuel gauge showing full all the time. I posted and a got a few replies. One was on how to remove electrical plugs from the fuel pump, which would send a signal of empty to the gauge and thus I then know where the problem could be E.I. In my case the gauge worked fine, but I had to sort out issues in the fuel tank. The thought struck me that if this is posted somewhere seperate (even on the main website may be???) as a method of checking fuel gauges are working, it could become a valuable resource. People who have got their problems sorted out could post their "final result" (for lack of a better word) and everyone would be able to instantly check that if they ever had a similar problem. I know it means a bit more work for people but I for one would be more than happy to make one extra post somewhere seperate. Other things that people have found (like may be a common fix for BOV, running rich etc) out could be posted that way people could check there first and may be fix the problem themselves. It just seems a little bit of a waste to see some people with so much knowledge, and not everyone able to access/use it to the full extent. Well let's here some idea's, I know I would love to be able to find out quickly what are some common fixes to problems . Cheers, Tim

The fuel gauge was working, showing about 3/4 full, then as I was driving along it rose to full. I was driving along a flat road at about 80km/h. It may well be a connection at the back of the dash, however I don't have the time until the weekend to really have a good play. Thanks for all the replies guys. **I checked those plugs under the plate in the boot - the plugs were clean but I gave them a good blow and tap anyway. With the plugs off the gauge went to zero, after the clean with the plugs back on it went back up to full. Looks like it could be that fuel sender clip. PVA_Glue, care to give some slightly more detailed instructions on where/what the clip looks like (Besides a clip in the fuel tank )** Tim

May very well be. I have had a little play this morning and my thoughts were that the gauge may well be fine, but something else is causing a wrong voltage or whatever to the gauge. The fact that it is forced into the highest position, and not dropping down seems to be a wrong voltage. Maybe the wire is stripped and shorting somewhere in the car? Also how does the fuel system measure the level in a Skyline, is it a spring hooked up to a float (like a Gemini for example) that regulates the voltage, or is it a little more refined? Also on a side note, how much noise should fuel pumps make? Mine seems to make a bit of a whine when I first turn the ignition on. Barely noticable, but Ihvae heard it on occasion. Is my pump on the way out? Cheers, Tim