JDM_Spirit

Hey, Im interested... But Im curious as to what the dents/marks are on the piston? Cheers

Hey everyone, Ive been making plans for abit of a big project and been scratching me head about something. Im planning on using a Neo RB25DET head and retain the VCT. One of the many options are to add some aftermarket cams into the package. We have seen a S2 RB25DET on the dyno with factory Cams and VCT and by shifting the VCT's cut off point etc, we were able to get better torque figures. The owner then added Step 1 Cams and didnt utilise VCT and similar results were made, therefore no real gain was made. Now what I was wondering was, how big can I go before VCT can no longer be used nor functional? Cheers

Hey guys, I got a NEO RB25DET Side Mount Intercooler here up for grabs Good and simple upgrade for anything older then a Neo. CA's, SR's and RB20's Price: $ 50 Located: Gold Coast Contact: 0414 595 397 or PM

IMO, 'Factory' Turbos are abit of a 'luck of the draw'. Ive heard of RB turbos letting go (seals, wheels etc) at a very early age/Milage and others doing 200k + km's. The MOST common problem I've come across with mine and several other friends turbos, are the 'Manifold to Turbo' gasket. Generally its just the Nuts coming loose and just need a nip up. The 'Turbo tabs' do a mighty good job at preventing any further implications. When the nuts loosen, a strange 'whistle/whine' can be heard very clearly when under full song. My conclusion on the problem is poor maintenance regarding the exhaust mounts/design etc. Just swinging around hanging all its weight on the back of the turbo can be harmful. Regarding the 'Genuine' KM's... I got mine a month after coming off the docks with 48,***kms. I wouldnt be suprised in the slightest if they were wound back or tampered with in some way. Abit too good/unbelievable to be true...

Spotted Silver S2 in Burleigh... checking out the Christmas lights. If your on here, Im sorry I never caught your name... I had the White S2.............

I know its not a 25 but... I have witnessed a RB30ET (Factory Turbo VL not a +T) on the dyno with a genuine 600,000 + Kms on the clock. Only on the dyno to check everything still looking healthy. The owner had only replaced the injectors and AFM in its time, with general maintenance of course.

Hey buddy, It doesn't have one??? I'll find out how much first thing in the morning

Spotted a very clean red/maroon S1 today about 5pm? Southbound M1, Loganholme....

Binned.

Spotted a White S2 RSFOUR S... VERY NICE! 1:30PM Southbound M1 near Springwood area.

Badge is gone...

Yeah, Still For Sale... Take it away

Wow... I had no idea of the 'want' factor.

In the first pic you can see a bend/pressure mark from storage. Drivers side... where it meets the windscreen. In the second pic you can see a mark, whether its a scratch or something? In certain lighting/angles you can see little marks from glass, only the face that meets the windscreen ie:the first pic. ZERO tears and rips etc.

With factory ECUs (Un-touched Nissan engineering). -Boost levels no higher then 7pound -Retain Carbon/Emission Canister -Good Heat Shield / CAI (heat soak = no power = lead foot to get her moving) -Clean Air Flow Meter / Filter -A Fully Operational 02 Sensor -Drop all unnecessary weight (useless cargo) -Lay off the throttle. My two cents

Please excuse the picture quality.. I took them a few months ago and had to find them.

Hey everyone, I have a Dash out of an Series ONE R33 GTS-T for sale. In good condition :thmbup: Conditions: $20 this week. If not sold by Friday it will be binned Location: Gold Coast Contact: 0414 595 397 or PM Cheers

Badge - On hold

Hey team, I got a few spares I thought might be more use to someone else. - $20 - - 1x S2 Stagea Rear SwayBar (Factory) - $100 - - 2x S2 Stagea Front Brake Calipers (has Pads + Shims) - $20 - - 1x Silver Stagea Horse Badge (Goes on front grill) Located : QLD, Gold Coast Contact: PM or please txt 0414 595 397 Cheers

Last month, I was waxing mine I got abit on the racks so I figured Id give it a go. Looks brand new! Still glossy black now...

The simple life is a good life Needed a wash, but they are shiny under the dirt

Spotted a Silver S2 at Surfers Crowne Plaza last night...

I was wondering what are the legal lines of cutting hole(s) into the shell? My main thought regarding the cutting is not so much legal side of things... more insurance concerns. If I was to have a front end, and they say that due to the hole(s) the structural integrity was altered by me removing part of the shell? Thus why I was investigating other needs/methods/styles etc... I may add, for the moment I still retain the factory smic, but intend on using a 'turn flow' cooler, so the piping will still follow the factory set up. So I wont be able to utilize the factory holes.

Hey everyone, I know this has been covered in the DIY sections etc and I understand how easy it is. But... I was wondering what different set ups people have used? Whether it be using the factory CAI or cutting a hole in their shell etc... I've previously had just cut 3" holes in my previous cars with abit of flaxi pipe etc. But a few things/thoughts came up regarding my Stagea; 1, I would like it to stay as 'close' to legal as possible 2, I have a mate who has done a similar set up as the 'Pipe', but instead made a full induction 'Scoop' type thing out of some colour bond. As he is still running a MAF, on the dyno we noticed the air rushing in was upsettin the MAF when at idle. So in real time if he were to idle at 100km/h he would be upsetting the MAF into thinking there was alot more air coming in then there really was. In turn it was running rich.(Only at idle of course) ( ...If you follow? ) So my thought was to have some form on induction that would 'fill' an air box/heat shield inclosure as apposed to blowing directly onto a pod. I have learnt the hard about Filters getting wet as a result of having the induction pipe directly on the pod. Thankyou

OK, after abit of thought... It just occured to me that the 'links' have a fair amount of 'thread'... Ive got the Links wound all the way in/as short as possible. If I wind them out it should be enough to lower the Bar where they meet the Links/control arms and lift the Bar up to clear the exhaust if Im' thinking correctly... Can anyone shead some light on the Links and how much of the Thread should be used etc? Thanks