jjman

fair enough. But when that day comes....

no i dont but the pineapples are the next mod that is going in- just after the camber arms so i can have it all aligned at once after this n will get them to have a look at the bushes just prior to this. Hey, im still trying to get some more seasoned advice on the pineapple issue. I plan to put in pineapples that help 'grip', particularly in take-off and straight line power-down grip. How truly effective are they at this beyond actually getting the camber just right in the first place? and, most importantly, are the any compromises that this sort of pineapple introduces?- such as reduced lateral (cornering) grip? cheers

nah im not a hater. I think it is an awesome idea in theory n more stuff like this should get done. The problem is, n hence all the contrary comments, is that he is doing this to stock turbos on what sounds like a good motor (hence getting ready to put some 2530's on it). But due to the known reliability issues with stock GTR turbos and the catastrophic consequences of failure, it seems very reckless to be not only using them un-neccesarily but also doing something to them that is increasingly likely to make them fail. This sort of experiment on his fresh 2530's id be cheering for. But like this just seems silly as he could kill a perfectly good motor...

i think it is totally possible if he used the hose like this i think this guy would have definately gotten some dents...

its possible if he used the hose like this think this guy definately would have gotten some dents from it....

its possible if he used the hose like this i think this guy definately would have gotten some dents from it

water is actually extremely abrasive, especially under certain conditions... Hey dude, can you film this shit every time you run this water injection experiment. Its going to end in an awesome failure on those stock turbos n i want to see that shit go down. I need a good laugh over my morning coffee n that just the number to do it for some reason all this is reminding me of this clip which also provided coffee laughs for me a few years ago...

Saturday arvo saw a black S2 R33 GTST with stock rims n GTR bodykit on Orrong. Sunday morning saw an nice looking R33 GTST in wine red with GTR bodykit on welshpool rd. Reciprocal wave (no homo) n a worked 180sx (custom blue with BN bodykit) i had a mad play with at 1am on sunday morning. Good times.

mad. that cant have been fun...

ah interesting, i did not know that about HICAS not operating above 110. That rules that out then (unless there is freeplay in the HICAS mechanism...) transformation was very quick. N it was more the end swapping sides (tho not breaking traction) n it swayed into essentially oversteer first n then swayed the other way, then the other again n then settled drown. It might have been that i did turn in quite aggressively n it just meant that the rear weight transfer just flicked the back a bit which then took a couple of sways+corrections to settle down. wheel to guard is about 1-2cm. see attached pic (tho in reality it sits a little lower than this in the rear as it is on the back of a flat top tow in that pic n on the angle with the handbrake on means the rear is sitting about 1-2 cm higher) I havent had the rear end checked for play recently (did about 9 months ago n all good). Have also had a full 4 wheel alignment about 6 months ago. Prob will check for freeplay again n get into a suspension shop for a comprehensive look-over. Can the HICAS systems get freeplay in them or do they lock well when that get above that 110km/h threshold n turn off?

So on the weekend i was doing some driving (track) at a speed id not done before and had some ass clenching 'feedback'. Basically i was doing about 170km/h and turned in to a fast left hand curve at 170km/h and while i could feel i would be close to the limits of my mechanical grip i was nonetheless within it. But the car handling feedback i got was not a good one. Essentially the turn in was perfect (no understeer and it pointed very well and communicatively) but after that the tail end started doing this strange swaying (3 sways: first into oversteer, then under then over) that was a bit too much movement for my likeing at that kind of speed. I had to correct the sways with steering inputs otherwise im sure it would have meant a spin (crash). A point worth noting is that the tyres were not breaking traction, it was just that the rear end was swaying. So my question is, what is most likely to have caused this? The HICAS? the limits of the car and my suspension, tyres etc? old bushes that might need replacing? as a bit of a run-down i have An R33 GTS-T 275/35/18 toyo proxes on the rear. GTR sway bars. BC coilovers 8/6kg springs (mid damping on the front and lowest on the rear) Car lowered considerably. HICAS is still on the car... Other factors- road surface was very good and grippy- though it was fairly low ambient temp and my tyres werent exactly really warm either. Anybody familiar with the characteristics of GTST's in this kind of setting and what might have caused this? cheers J

what colour is that?

yeah 100mm is pretty low. Especially if you have a stock bodykit. N if you have an aftermarket bodykit then u risk damaging that. I used to have mine at dead on 100mm n scraped my arse everywhere. Now at 120mm n barely ever scrape. Car handles better too not being so dumped... also remember when you are adjusting the height, to check it you need to not only take the car off the jacks but also compress the suspension again. You can do this by pushing down/bouncing eaither corner but easiest way is to just take it for adrive n go round a few corners, accelerate n break a bit. That way you know that is exactly how it will sit.

as per stormchaser's experience, its hard to go past BC's. n they are dead easy to install urself so unless your really bad with the tools its shouldnt be a problem for you. Just make sure that you can undo all of the required nuts on the current suspension (tops n bottom) in case they have been done up mega tight or seized. That way you dont end up with 2 coilovers out n then unable to get the next out n have to take it to a shop to cut the nut off....

Good man. Get in, do your research, make a decision n make it happen. If only more people were like this instead of opening a thread. Debating the topic for 6 months n then doing something different anyway... yeah i have mine permanently set on the softest in the rear n mid in the front (works well to firm up the pointy end n help turn in n feedback i found) as far as wheel alignment goes u will want to get ur ride height sorted first as changing this alters camber n a few other things so set it right n then get the 4 wheel alignment done. Remember aswell that if you are running on 16 inch stock rims atm n then plan to put on 18's or 19's then this will lift things a bit again (only slightly but it might be enough to make your current ride height fine once the rims are on). Keep this in mind... Enjoy.

that system still works because the gases/oil from the rocker cover still needs to go through the catch can meaning the oil is separated or at least mostly separated from the air before it ends up in the intake pipe. if in doubt pull the hose off where it attaches to the intake pipe n see if there is any oily residue making it to there. If not, it is doing its job. If there is, more baffling needed (or it is residue from before the catchcan was plumbed in- so wipe of the residue, n check for residue in another 1000-2000km time) make sense?

nissan genuine- any dealer can get it for you (rip off). Or just set the venting up right n block off the PCV n stop bad oily vapours going into your inlet manifold n doing things it shouldnt. Especially an issue now when cars are getting higher in the k's n more blowby n vapours in the rocker covers to then end up in the intake plenum. -oil vapour in the intake charge is a terrible creator of detonation... N whats one thing that RB's hate?....

Id say lower it a certain amount when you put them on. that way you A: get a sense of your ride height and a first crack at getting it right- which can then be adjusted if need be AS you put the new rims on (so you are not trying to do it all at once which can mean rims off and adjusting 2-3x over..) B: you can get a sense of what a given ride height will do to your handling. I put in some HKS Hyper-D's and they were low as and the way it affected handling was mad (the lower you go the heavier your steering becomes). Finally, if you do indeed have shitty roads where you are then maybe consider the softer spring rates as 8/6 might get a bit much if you are constantly going over bumps n potholes... Good luck...

Not at all, unless you plan to dump it on its arse n ruin the handling that way anyway (thereby making your purchase of coilovers useless in enhancing handling) I dont have any camber arms on mine n with the stock camber at its most centred after being lowered on my BC's it is at about 1degree of camber in the rears with the car lowered considerably whereby i can just get a finger horizontal between the tyres and the guard lip- see pic. Sits beeewdifully otherwise the standard BC's are available on here for 1200 delivered from Boostn Imports and include that pillowball - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/292008-bc-racing-suspension-kits-for-almost-every-model/page__hl__boostn this is the best quality and outcome you can get for that sort of money short of gambling on some second-hand teins etc that have no warranty... You in Perth? id be happy to take you for a spin... I

Iv got the BC's (V1-Vs) in my R33 GTS-T and they are awesome. Iv got the 8kg/6kg ones. Iv had both HKS and Tein's in before n they feel way better than those. wind up the damping n its track-taught, wind it back off to mid-way in the front and softest in the rear n it is perfect for street driving (tho still plenty stiff enough in my opinion) and thats the setting i was running when doing this- if ur not into driving briskly n the odd track-day then maybe go for the softer spring rated ones. 8/6 is still pretty firm in most people's books. Perfect in mine though...

Silver R33 s2 in leederville yesterday arvo on 'p's. errr, i think that thing might have an exhaust leak...

ahahahha. Gold. Was the sump full so it then proceeded to piss oil out everywhere reminding you just how much of a fail you had managed to succeed?

how tuff is the metal there? im thinking a super strong magnet (and beleive me they can come reall strong) combined with a breaker bar + heating up the dented area with a heat gun n there is the possibility of popping that dent back out. Not that if heard of it being done but avoiding having to drop the K frame is always a good option right?

Here's my review of the 2 types of tyres iv used in the last year on my R33 GTST (300rwhp) I have Kumho KU31 ecsta F:235/35/18 R:265/35/18 Dry 8/10 Wet 7/10 damn good tyre. Low road noise, no squeeling when spinning and the grip was really progressive and gave lots of feedback, esp when traction was broken and did really well to regain traction. Toyo Proxes4- rears only 275/35/18 (fronts were still the KU31's) Dry 7/10 Wet 6/10 Not sure how to rate these. Definately a decent enough tyre, especially for road use. However, a very noisy tyre both in general road noise and the squeel they give when they break traction. Im not sure but i do feel these are giving less traction than the 265 KU31's. However i did put these on as the weather was cooling down n we all know a warmer tyre grips better... Also the KU31's were fresh off the production line n the Proxes sat in my shed for 18 months before being put on. Not sure if that kind of age would make a difference but trying to make sense of it all as i was expecting better grip that the KU31's due to reviews and that the tyre was a bit wider. Furthermore, when these Proxes break traction it is alot harder to reign in n regain traction than the KU31's and far less comunicative as to whats going on and what itl do next when in a big slide... Nonetheless, for a street tyre, pretty good. check my 0-100 test on them. cant complain too much right?

wtf is MON?