Ruff Ryda

Vac leak is possible but I reckon it might be timing. Make sure if the engine is getting a little older then you the advance the timing more than what the manual recommends. You might be running too lean or rich, if it's lacking high rpm performance then I'd say it's too lean. Either way don't cain it, get it checked out ASAP. Also make sure your spark and O2 sensors are ok.

I'll assume it's an RB25DET according to your pic. If so you sohuld be able to hit over that figure with step 1 cams (290 RWKW or so?). The GT3071R is a great turbo for response and power and work better with cams. Get some step 1 cams so you keep VCT too . Get a set like these: http://www.nengun.com/hks/camshafts-nissan They drop right in, keeping VCT and no need to upgrade valve springs unlike the larger step 1s such as JUN or Tomei. Get a Rocker Arm Stopper kit just in case for another $80 and you're set. Good luck.

Turn them and see what happens...

Rebuilds are expensive unless it's just bearings is that right? I was under the impression ball bearing turbos weren't worth doing anything to once they start to get play. It's usually cheaper to just buy another one. Also a GT3076R internally gated can be done. To open it up properly an exernal gate on a high mount would be better though. What turbo manifold you running? What's the size of the engine? RB20 I would recommend the 0.63 A/R @ 21 PSI but an RB25 could take the 0.82 A/R @ 24 PSI with the extra displacement. As for turbo purchases these sites listed already are the ones I know of unless you go on another forum hunt.

Yeah, just wondering if the boost controller isn't functioning properly and it's not in synch with the acutator. I would see if another boost controller could fix the problem or another BOV (try BOV first). Are you able able to get your hands on another one to test? If so give it a try.

Maybe a leak, check all vac hoses, pipe clamps and the intercooler core for any small pinholes. If it's fine under cold wather conditions and losing boost response under warmer conditions (besides the fact it is warmer and oyu will lose a little power anyway) then a leak it may be.

Detonation has probably ocurred and it's all the way through your piping and IC. Check your head and rings mate and do a compression test too.

Ahh double clutching should be more beneficial for your synchros but only if you do it right! If you rev too high and engage the clutch it will jump forward and put more strain on the drivetrain and too low will make pull it back similar to normal downshifting. The whole idea is to keep it smooth and get the revs matching right before engaging the gear. It should be seamless between downshifts.

Check it again against vac diagrams man. Are you sure the turbo actuator or wastegate isn't jamming up in any way? The standard Garrett ones aren't great. Go for HKS or something. Also make sure the EBC solenoid is setup correctly with both vac lines, if it isn't then you will have vac and readings with all sorts of problems.

I make a mean tuna sandwich...

Thanks, when do I get my complimentary bottles of NOS?

Hi SAU, I'm 23, single, live alone watching Dharma and Greg on cold lonely nights with 6 bottles of cheap vodka crying myself to sleep on my best nights. I just can't stop the craving of modding my cars and watching my bank balance drop, it's an addiction. HELP ME!!!!! Ok enough fkin around, I just love Nissans. I've jumped on here pretty much to learn more in general about Skylines (the other great models of by Nissan) and see what others have to say about them. I may enter my input and try to help where I can, but I'll start by learning what I can first. Look forward to learnig with you all! Cheers.