gwilkinson34
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Posts posted by gwilkinson34
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Joey,
What positive changes did you see in performance when you put in a 1.5LSD?
My cars pretty violent in the first few gears and nothing short of soft. Running 275/19 NT05s and considering downgrading to 18s and slapping on some NT05R Drag Radials. Its making close to 300kw @ 4000rpm so its very on song. Traction is a bit of a issue these days
Would you recommend upgrading to a 1.5?
What setup have you got that's making 300 by 4k rpm? Traction would be an issue with that i'm sure! My 300 (on E50) is not up til 5.5k rpm.
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No R34 part for that one - what would be the difference between the two?
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+1
1.5 wasy nismo gt lsd pro tt over here... i fkn LOVE my diff
This one?
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If your getting traction once the tyres warm up then it might be worth trying some different tyres that will work when cold. I've got 265KW and use federal 595SS and they hold traction really well, well in the dry anyway. i've put some different tyres on the back before and it was nothing but wheelspin. Other than that you could run less boost or get a tuner to adjust the tune so you get more traction in the top end which sounds lame (less power) but it will work out to be quicker than wheelspin.
Yeah it becomes an expensive exercise changing tyres...!
I think i'd like to try the ABS signal -> Haltech torque reduction feature... sounds pretty neat.
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+1 get a decent diff... it will transform the way your car puts its power down
Suggestions on something good...?
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What turbo is it? Change in torque is what really creates wheelspin, so if you have a laggy turbo it's more likely to fry tyres.
3076 with .82 exhaust specifically for a more linear curve to get the power down...!
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When the car was on the dyno for an E50 tune, after a few runs the things were like glue. But even spinning them like mad all the way to work (10kms) when i get there they certainly ain't sticky... they cost me $600 a pop and i spent AGES researching and heard rave reviews but perhaps they were more track oriented...?
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This guy was highly recommended by Simon at Morpowa (whom I trust)... surprising.
I've heard a lot of people say that running lower pressures will improve traction... perhaps a common myth?
So basically the next thing (suspension wise) is to try coilovers?
Any other suggestions?
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Yes when the tyres are warm they'll hold 2nd and about 3/4 throttle in first... getting them warm on the road is next to impossible it seems however...
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Yes when the tyres are warm they'll hold 2nd and about 3/4 throttle in first... getting them warm on the road is next to impossible it seems however...
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They say that for the drags, because its true. Thats also using 16" wheels with proper drag radials/semi's.
Why are you only running 22psi in circuit semi comps?
You cannot do that. AD08's are not drag radials. Running incorrect pressure will destroy them
Yeah I just tried dropping them down last night as the suspension guy suggested playing with tyre pressures might help... didn't make a difference so yes I will be putting them back up.
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there's ya problem
Why do people always claim that stock shocks are best for traction then...?
You suggest coilovers?
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Anyone else have a similar experience to this?
273rwkw (299 on E50): Stock shocks, slightly lowered King Springs, adjustable camber arms with camber set to nigh on 0, pineapple bushes set to maximum traction and $600ea Yoko Advan Neova 08 semi slicks in 255 only running 22psi pressure and STILL can't put my foot down past half way in 1st or 3/4 in second.
Car still certainly moves and is an awesome amount of fun while it hunts for traction but sometimes you just want it to hook up.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
My money is on 1. Gear based boost; 2. Hooking up the ABS signal into my Haltech with the new software and using torque reduction as traction control or 3. getting even wider rear tyres (what are the widest you can fit on this sucker?).
(and yes, I should have bought a GTR)
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Thanks to all of you!!!! Cheers...
To answering some questions, Im looking at mods, to making A""nice all rounder car" Power and handling.
Not going over the top...
First Im more of a car enthusiast, than knowing about whats goes under the hood... Me, i can fix your pc, build you a new one or get you just about any prog...If you know what i mean.. When it comes to cars, i can drive them, and i can drive them well, but knowing the engine and mods for it all...well, sorry, not my strong point...
So this is what Im looking at:-
What Ive got, R34 GTt 98'
3" exhaust, from turbo/to exhaust tip
drift Hi flow pod filter.
19" rims
Full body kit, with fiber glass bonnet/with breath holes, 2 for heat, 1 for pod filter
And its black.. will put a pic for my avatar soon..after i clay bar it.
down side.. its a.. and Im HATING saying but its a Tiptronic...
I needed a car, and i couldn't find a manual for a couple of weeks..
anyway, when you all get of the shock horror.
Things i was going to do next (and this is what Im asking about)
boost controller
aftermarket ECU.. not to sure which or what one??
intercooler
fuel pump
sway bars (maybe)
dyno tune
Now, am I fooling my self, am I missing something, should I be looking/doing something totally different???Please comments, chop and change my ideas...
Fix my list.....
Cheers all....
Looks like a fairly good list for a mild car.
You may not need the fuel pump if you are not changing injectors / turbo unless it starts to lean out on the dyno when being tuned. Although it wouldn't hurt to chuck in a GTR pump for safety.
If you are not going too wild then a Nistune ECU might be your best (and cheapest) bet.
Be warned: you WILL want more power quickly once you've gotten to this stage - guaranteed
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You'll want a GT3076r, 700-800cc injectors, Haltech / Vipec / Motec map sensor ECU, fuel pump (take your pick), HD clutch, cold air intake, and E50 or E85 fuel. Oh and a big FMIC.
Then you'll want adjustable camber arms, stock shocks and some very wide rear tyres.
Do it once and do it right.
Hehe
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yer thats true. at double the rpm the same injector duty is going to see half the fuel injected each pulse, but theres twice as many pulses so you end up using the same amount of fuel relative to time
touche
when your talking about fuel consumption and injector duty rpm is rather irrelevant, yes i know it makes a difference due to latency but its fairly insignifigant, even at idle (the lowest fuel consumption apart from fuel cut) the latency for most injectors is still less than the actual open time.for a rough guide you can use inj duty to determine what gears are more efficient for certain speeds
And that's pretty much exactly what I was after!
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exactly a 1:1 fuel reg gets rid of any flow difference due to pressures.
inj duty is not affected by rpm directly, yes you'll usually see a higher duty at a higher rpm but thats because you need generally need more fuel at higher rpm's. if you have 444cc injectors at 50% your using 222cc of fuel per minute per injector ragardless of whether its at 2000rpm or 6000rpm. obviously its never going to be exact but it gives you a good idea of how much fuel your using
I thought that injector duty was the amount of time it could be open on each cycle - ie in ms - 50% duty meant the injector was open for half the available time etc - therefore the higher the revs the less time available for it to be open (i would assume)?
Read it on some EFI website somewhere...
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+1 for an ethanol blend.
I just got a tune on 50/50 100% ethanol and BP 98 blend and the difference is amazing. Just ran out tonight and had to go back to my BP98 tune and it feels so much lazier - boo for petrol.
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I guess another variable though is that at 2k rpm '100%' injector duty is going to be longer than at 2.5k rpm - meaning that the actual inj duties i'm reading may not be directly comparable? Is that right?
Ie in 4th it's 3.5% of X (@ 2k rpm) and in 3rd it's 4.5% of 1.2x X (@ 2.5k rpm)....?
Or is '100%' duty a constant regardless of RPM?
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it is related. timing, efficiency etc have no effect on the injector duty itself.
regardless of duty the amount of times it fires per minute is only affected by engine rpm. inj duty is the % of time the injector is open in every pulse, ie at 0% it never opens, at 50% its open for the same amount of time as it is closed, so half the time, at 100% its constantly open.
its not exact but yes in 4th you would be using around 20% less fuel than you would be in 3rd in your example
That's what i figured - surely the time the injector was open and the RPM must relate to petrol consumption.
All the other factors mentioned above would then have an effect on injector duty itself, as you would need to put your foot down more if you weren't making efficient power, hence increasing the duty.
I think i'll try cruising in 5th and watching my inj duty for a tank and see if I can notice any difference.
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My workmates say they get pissed just driving behind me when its cold, smells heavily of ethanol. I guess people will have to get used to the different smell.
I just tuned my car on a 50/50 ethanol / BP98 mix on Monday and it smells so sweeeeet
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For example, if cruising at 60kmh in 3rd at say 2.5k rpm and injector duty is at 4.5-5% compared to cruising in 4th at 2k rpm and injector duty is at 3.5-4% - does this mean that the car is using less fuel in 4th? And even less in 5th if the duty is lower again? (I'm assuming here that the injector duty I see is directly related to the fuel in the load/rpm cell I am cruising in for a given gear...)
Assuming that each injector is flowing roughly 1% less each time it fires and that it is firing 500 times less per minute - is there a direct correlation between duty and fuel consumption that is this easy to draw, or is it more complicated?
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99 R34 GTT - RB25DET NEO
Custom FMIC
Apexi pod filter
Custom cold air intake / induction
3" Turbo back exhaust
Garrett GT3076 internal gate .82 rear
700cc (ish) high flowed standard injectors
Haltech P2000 ECU (3 bar map sensor)
Bosch fuel pump (?)
Greddy Profec spec B boost controller
Daily driver 'safe tune' @ 18psi = 272.9rwkw
Max power before 6k all the way to redline so definitely has more in it!
Tuned by Simon @ Morpowa.
Tuned the above on a 50/50 ethanol and BP98 blend.
299.1rwkw @ around 20psi. (Having trouble attaching the dyno chart...)
Tried to crank a couple more pounds into it but the intake temps started going skyward and it actually made less power - obviously a restriction somewhere, going to try to drop the cat and see if that helps. Otherwise it might be the IW exhaust housing?
Feels MUCH more responsive throughout the range on the road - ethanol FTW.
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The bigger the better incase you decide to use E85.
+1
ECU: Haltech, MoTeC, Vipec (+1 for asking your tuner). I wouldn't go Power FC if you have the cash - they are getting on and lacking in features, resolution for maps and data logging.
Getting Traction In A 273Rwkw R34 Gtt
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
Agreed. Just thinking of down the track when this car doesn't see the public roads anymore...