gwilkinson34

Sold for $16,000.

Price drop: $15,500 ono.

More pics...

In Adelaide.

Imported standard from Japan in 2007. $30k+ spent in mods, everything top quality. All receipts and dyno charts. Multiple tunes for PULP, E50 and E85, switchable via laptop software. Runs perfectly, makes big power. I'm getting married, and unfortunately the fiance wants it gone...! Safe, reliable 300rwkw @ 20psi on E85. (270rwkw on PULP) Garret GT3076 internally gated turbo (.82 A/R) Haltech P2000 3 bar map sensor ECU (USB connector in glovebox for laptop tuning) Highflowed RB25 injectors (~800cc) Greddy Profec B spec II boost controller Haltech Wideband Oxygen Sensor (w/ closed loop fuelling) Standard B.O.V. plumbed back into intake Bosch 040 High Capacity Fuel Pump Custom built Autosport Engineering crossflow intercooler Apexi Power Intake Air Pod Custom stainless intake pipework and cold air induction 3" single dump pipe Exhaust Technology custom 3" mandrel exhaust Exhaust Technology racing cat Jun BL 3" resonator and spiral cannon Aftermarket 52mm alloy radiator Exedy Heavy Duty ceramic 5 button clutch Brand new Nismo 1.5 way mechanical LSD HICAS locker bar Brand new DBA T3 slotted brake rotors (front) Brand new brake pads all round King Springs lowered Coil Springs (standard springs come with car) Whiteline Control and Upper Radius Arms (camber adjustment) Whiteline Subframe Align & Lock Kit (polyurethane diff bushing, aka 'pineapples') Speedy Inferno rims (black gloss, machined rim) 19 x 8.5" front - 235 x 35 tyres - (brand new) 19 x 9.5" rear - 265 x 30 tyres (good) Standard rims with near-new tyres will also come with the car Nismo Clear front & side indicators Alpine CDA-117 head unit (CD/MP3, USB & iPhone connector in glovebox) Parrot Bluetooth module and microphone Pioneer JDM Carrozzeria 3-way splits (front) All wiring to boot for amp and subs Looking for $16,500 ono. Bargain. Cheers. Guy 0407 025 822 [email protected] (will post more photos soon)

I just had a Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way put in a couple days ago - and I can report that it shits all over the crappy viscous LSD I had. Tight turns (especially when cold) are a bit 'surgy/skippy' but it settles down when warm. No real clunks, and it's made a big difference to acceleration - even though it still lets go (e85 - 300rwkw) the car still accelerates through the wheelspin, instead of just breaking sideways or spinning one tyre to redline in a flash. Very impressed so far.

When I first did my engine (273rwkw) I got an Extreme Extra HD clutch (as was suggested by the workshop, as I found out later only because they had a 'deal' with them) - the thing was horrible. So bloody heavy you needed a tree trunk of a leg to even depress the thing, and after about 6-9 months of, let's say 'spirited' use on the street, the thing decided to weld itself to the flywheel one day - I managed to get it off again but after that it carried on like you wouldn't believe (not surprisingly), grinding and making noise etc. Suffice to say, never again will I own an Extreme clutch! I ripped it out and after reading some very good things rang Jim Berry (i'm in Adelaide) and organised (after a mammoth phone call) for him to rebuild it using the existing pressure plate and organic plate, and have it shipped down here to my workshop. Now, I may be the only person to have a bad story about Jim Berry, but when the clutch arrived, it didn't fit! It went into the car, but it wouldn't disengage completely, and you could barely get it into gear. So out it came, and back to Jim it went, only to comeback a week or so later, and guess what? Not fit again! Jim was totally bemused by this, as were my mechanics, and as the issue dragged on and my car sat in the workshop (and this is my daily drive!) useless, I got pretty annoyed! Third time lucky? Nope. Still wouldn't fit. Finally we gave up, Jim refunded the money and cost of the time wasted (very good of him) and the workshop put in an Exedy heavy duty cushion button ceramic. Now 2 years later and running E85, making 300rwkw and driving the thing pretty hard (although no track time) the Exedy hasn't missed a beat. The thing grips like you wouldn't believe, so it took a bit of getting used to, especially since it feels (from memory) no heavier than the OEM clutch. Bear in mind though with a ceramic clutch it is pretty on/off - if you release it SUPER slow through the friction point you can take off pretty smoothly, but if you're not paying attention for a moment and let it out without enough revs it will jump your arse forward pretty violently and stall! Now that I'm used to it though it's great to drive, and holds my power easily. The only other annoyance of a ceramic clutch is not being able to ride it at all - especially trying to reverse uphill - after a few seconds of slip the thing will start to grind pretty badly - however it's fine again as soon as it cools down after a moment or two. The fun thing is trying to watch what I like to call a 'normal' person jump in and try to take off with it - usually results in a number of stalls and some laughs from me.. ;-)

Well, the diff has been in for a couple days now - also had a HICAS locker bar installed at the same time - and it has certainly made a pretty big difference to the car! To be honest I wasn't really sure what to expect, never having driven a car with a 'proper' LSD before, and hearing all sorts of stories about clunking, noise etc, I was quite interested to see what it would be like. I believe the actual diff I got was the Nismo 1.5 way Pro, with the adjustable torque settings etc. Set in the middle at this stage. The diff had done two half track days, which is why I got it at a good price, but it's essentially brand new, and I didn't have the hassle of having to run it in. Let me tell you, this thing is TIGHT! The first thing I noticed was making the turn out of the garage - the inside wheel skipping to keep up with the outside, as it should - a weird sensation that many people seem to have likened to "the rear end falling apart" - it was nowhere near that bad though. As soon as I straightened up there was no noise at all, and driving in a straight line I don't notice any difference from the old diff, which is good. There's been a couple clunks here and there, when i've let out the clutch a bit quickly between gears, but I have a pretty gnarly Exedy 6 puck cushioned ceramic clutch so I've learned to be very slow through the friction point (this thing grabs like a mother) anyway, so really the clunks have been kept to an absolute minimum. I went for a fair drive, and by the end of it the diff had obviously warmed up, and the surging / skipping around tight turns had settled down considerably. I noticed this morning when it was cold again the surging feeling was worse, but soon lessened again once everything warmed up. Now, the good part! My car has always struggled for traction - running E85 it makes 300rwkw by just after 5.7k rpm, so it's very torquey through that 4-6k rpm range. With the old diff when it let go (which it did in 1st and 2nd with anything over half throttle), it REALLY let go - it would either break out totally sideways, or the thing would spin one wheel and redline in an instant - acceleration would pretty much stop until I changed gear, Even backing off it didn't grip back up easily. Now though, while I still can't floor it in the lower gears without wheelspin, it acts very differently when it does let go (which it still does, but a fair bit later) - it generally stays straight if the road is good, spinning up both wheels, but the difference is even though it's losing traction it still pulls hard! If I back off just a touch it will regain grip very quickly, and you can really feel the diff working to keep the car straight. There's also a noticeable 'pushing' sensation that was absent before. I've taken a couple mates for a spin who have been in my car (and driven it) plenty of times, and their reaction was basically "holy f**k dude!". Lol. So while the difference is not night and day with pure traction, it certainly has a hell of a lot more acceleration in 1st and 2nd, which is obviously very bloody good! I feel it has definitely made more of a difference to getting the power down than the other things i've done, such as pineapples and zero camber. I guess they all work together to help though. I haven't had a chance to test the handling too much around town, but i've given it a few quick turns and roundabouts, and I can certainly see why people run proper LSDs for track cars - you get a real sense of the diff doing its job, and can really feel it working to straighten the car up, especially out of turns when given some stick. Places where my old diff would have just hung the back end out, the thing now straightens up and takes off. While i'm not 100% used to it yet, nor have I taken it anywhere near its limits, it certainly has given me a sense that there's more confidence and predictability there. Even my GF (who hates the car, to be honest!) - once convinced to come for a spin - said (without prompting) that she felt much safer now than before - so that's a bit of a litmus test I guess! I will take it up into the hills at some point soon and see how it handles around some proper corners - so far I haven't noticed the '.5' part of the lockup on lifting the throttle / deceleration but I imagine I will with a proper thrash. It rained a bit here last night, and while I was out I had to chuck a quick u-bolt - and wanted to test what would happen if I just dumped the clutch and went round - man, did it go around quickly! It went a lot faster than I thought it would, but I just gave it some opposite lock and pulled it back (from about 45 degrees too far around) to straight again without any drama - I can see how it could be fun (and a tad scary) in the wet! Also having the HICAS removed was a good idea - I was never really aware of what it was doing before, but I certainly am now. The car feels a whole lot less 'floaty' than it did before - it tended to wander around a bit when the road was bumpy, with the big wheels on the front obviously making the HICAS react. Now it's just totally planted, and it feels much more direct in the steering than it did before. It gave a slightly heavier feel to the steering wheel as well, which was a bit odd at first since i've driven this thing just about daily for six years, but i'm used to it already and it feels much, much better. So in conclusion - is it an improvement? Damn straight it is! Are there drawbacks? I guess so - it's mildly annoying in car parks with the wheels chirping (although clutch in fixes that), and it surges quite a bit when cold around tight corners, but once it warms up that all goes away to an extent. Can I live with it in a daily driver? Without a doubt. The combination of ceramic clutch, loud exhaust and fairly solid suspension already means it's not the 'easiest' car to drive, although when just cruising casually it certainly isn't too outrageous and is still very comfortable. Would I recommend it? Again, most definitely - if you have a decent amount of power and already deal with a good clutch etc then it really isn't anything that will bother you too much. And just to finish off, here's a quick 'up skirt' snap of the diff and HICAS locker bar!

Cool - well the Nismo 1.5 way is going in this Wednesday - sounds like it should do the trick! Will post my impressions once it's in.

Yeah I think that's the way to go - found a Nismo 1.5 way that has only done two half track days - $1200 installed. Seems like a good deal to me?

You make some good points - unfortunately they have just confused me even more, as the guys that built my engine seem certain that a 2 way is the best option. However, as the car is basically only going to see the street, with a few runs down the strip, it seems like overkill. What options would there be for a replacement helical, or would it entail getting an S15 centre, new half shafts etc and putting something custom together?

The other option that has been suggested is a helical diff of some kind, but not sure what options are even available for my car... thoughts?

I know this has been asked a hundred times, and I've read plenty of threads, but I'm still not sold either way... I'm looking at either a Nismo 1.5 or 2 way diff for my R34 (300rwkw) - this is pretty much a 100% street driven car, although I do like to drive pretty aggressively (oops). It is a series 1 so has the shitty viscous LSD at the moment. I find it behaves very well even under full power with the current diff, but getting it to hook up in a straight line is next to impossible. Will either the 1.5 or 2 way make a big difference to straight line grip? (I've been told they will) I'm not too concerned about corners, but am a bit worried about a 2 way getting hard to handle on the street (especially in the wet) and being a pain in the arse in carparks, slow speeds etc. I'm leaning towards the 1.5 way, 'just in case', but would love some thoughts from those that have driven either on the road... Cheers!

Yeah - sussed out with a tuner that it would be more of a pain in the arse to swap the centres than just get a new diff. Now comes the question - what to get? It's been suggested that I go with a Nismo 2 way, although the car is pretty much 100% a daily driver, so I don't want it to be a complete hassle to drive on the street. Would I be better off with a 1.5 way? My main concern is straight line traction...

Does anyone know if this is possible? I have also heard the s15 torsen diff centres are a straight swap into the R34, but is this still the case between the viscous and torsen centres? Hoping the torsen diff might cure some of my traction woes...

Yeah, suspension wise I've just got the pineapples and adjustable control arms (with the camber almost at zero), and with 275 Adrenalin's (at $700 each!!!) the grip isn't great... Shitloads of fun though. Did your diff make a noticeable difference to traction? I have always said that there's no point in selling it, and that I would like to track it one day, but if I move I'll be renting out my house here and renting an inner city apartment interstate, and they generally only come with one carpark - the fiance flatly refuses to drive my car since the mods (she drives a mirage ) so unfortunately she has to come first. However, as I'm certainly not going to be driving a mirage around I think I've just about convinced her to let us get a 2005(ish) WRX as a compromise we can both live with... lol.

300kw by 5,500rpm laggy? Or are you just kidding? Lol. The dyno sheet you posted (page 30 I think?) shows you are (or were) only just making over 300 at those revs - and I still have factory manifolds and a low mount internal wastegate turbo...! There's also a restriction somewhere, as it hits 300 and then just holds to redline on 18psi - adding more boost just makes the intake temps soar and the power drop. Theories are either the non-split dump pipe or the internally gated exhaust housing... Not really keen on spending any more money to find out though - the only time I can really open her up is when I head up into the hills anyway, it is a daily driver after all. Trying to get the power down now around town is just about impossible (as you'd know well) - There's a reason why GTRs exist... heh. 3rd flat out is an awesome feeling, but you're in serious loss of license territory by then! Your car sounds exactly the same as mine, but then again I suppose it should since it's the same turbo! And it sounds freaking tough by the way. Anyone that knows Skylines would know it's not stock. I went with the Haltech P2000 as well - awesome ECU. People freak out when I show them what you can do with a laptop. It's amazing how many people have no idea what's going on behind the scenes with modern fuel injection. I'm thinking of moving interstate this year and will probably need to get rid of the car (booo!), so I actually added up all my receipts the other night - imported the car 100% stock in 2007 for $23k complied, and my receipts for all mods (including wheels but not tyres or servicing) came out to around $27k. Not as bad as I imagined really... over 6 years it doesn't seem that bad. Oh, if anyone's interested in one of these toys pm me, I'd probably be 'happy' to part with it in the low $20k range...

Nice 34 mate! Just checked out the Ringwood vids - my 3076 setup on E85 makes 300rwkw by 5.5k rpm - getting it to the ground in 1st or 2nd is practically impossible - that's probably what it looks like when I take off hard! ;-) I was going to go the ethanol sensor / flex fuel route, but the E85 from Caltex here in Adelaide has been consistent all year round so far, and with the wideband it doesn't seem all that necessary. How has it been working for you? How much have you spent all up do you reckon (if you don't mind me asking)?

Hi all. Ethanol composition sensor - who's running one? What ECU? How effective has it proven to be? I'm excited about the prospect and have been speaking to Morpowa about it... Flex fuel 300+rwkw Skylines... nice.

My tune runs around 25 degrees at idle without any dramas...

Excellent. Purchased.

I need to get a new radiator to replace my std R34 GTT single core that's started having trouble keeping the temps down. I've been advised by my mechanic and a couple drift guys to get one from eBay. What do you guys think? Are either of these any good: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130592198399?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280790211127?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 I was thinking the ASI one looked OK?

Update: This may well be the first bad thing said about JB on here (sorry JB!) - got the clutch back from QLD, put the car back together and we couldn't get it into gear at all. Turns out JB made a mistake and somehow sent the wrong pressure plate. Oops! Waiting for the correct one now...

Car will be back on the road tomorrow with a custom JB clutch - built out of my old extreme HD clutch that was apparently using the highest rated Nismo pressure plate and diaphragm - Looking forward to seeing the difference as I wasn't terribly keen on the clutch as it came from extreme, and it only lasted a year (with no drags being in Adelaide and barely a handful of mild launches). Will report back after I've driven it over the weekend.

I've got an internal gate 3076R on my R34 and that would certainly work if you like sliding... I struggle for traction everywhere with 270rwkw (300 on E50).