gwilkinson34

Standard traction control in the 34 is controlled by the same computer in the boot as the ALSD / HiCAS i do believe. Since changing ECU my slip light is constantly on, although no different to the 'TCS Off' light that used to be constantly on The traction control was fine with standard(ish) power under normal driving (in the wet etc) but no good to help launch. I pretty much got in the habit of turning it off first thing as soon as I started the car. Would be fairly useless with any decent power output IMO.

I believe he is probably just talking about +0.5 on the rear, so that when it squats hard it gets as close to 0 as possible. I also want to achieve the same goal - anyone know how?

My Haltech does have launch control, but i'm not sure how much it would help when the problem is wheelspin...? I guess it just takes throttle out of the equation so all you have to worry about is getting the clutch just right? Could investigate it further i suppose.

Judging by the standard traction control in the R34 (now no longer hooked up due to the Haltech, but it does have the ability) I would accelerate quicker with it off and a bunch of wheelspin (in the dry) because it just chokes the engine up WAY too much... Think it would be a horrible backfiring mess with 270+rwkw and the standard traction control personally...

So my car made 273rwkw and I couldn't get ANY of it down in 1st or 2nd with my crappy Hankook POS 235s. Now with Yoko Advan AD08s 255s on the rear once they are warm it will almost hold WOT in 1st - till about 5.5k where it hits 270kw. As soon as it starts to let go I just hit 2nd and as long as I don't flat change and get too much wheelspin it'll go from 50kph - 100kph in about 2 seconds flat. Getting it off the line from a dead stop is a bit harder, but I'd imagine the pull through second would make up a fair bit of time even when 'easing' it off the line. Not sure the best way to time it, but I can imagine flat 4s should be achievable...

Haltech P2000 if you have the $$$

Hi all, I've been told by quite a few people (including an import place) lately that I can polish the plastic headlight covers of my R34 with 'something' and they will come up good as new. They have been slightly 'faded' with a smokey, scuffed look since I got the car from Japan. You can kind of see this in the attached photo. Unfortunately no one has been able to tell me exactly what I should be using or how to do it. Does anyone know more about this? Cheers!

$606 trade price... each. 255/30/19 Bloody 19s...

I got my Yokohama Advan Neova AD08 255/30/19s fitted to the rear yesterday. I must say that first impressions - these are some mighty impressive tyres! They ALMOST hold full throttle in first, letting go around when it hits peak power, 273rwkw at 5.5k rpm (ish) if I have my foot mashed. 2nd I can hold it to the floor til redline - and the shove in the back and acceleration tell me my old tyres were probably getting no more than low 220kw to the ground at best! Even in the wet this morning they held really well and feel very very stable. But I guess they aren't cheap...! This is with stock suspension and lowered king springs - no camber adjustments. I'm going to get some +ve camber dialled in to try to get it to as close to zero as possible under squat and hopefully 1st will then hold...

The fuel pump will only help once you reach the limit of the standard system (as you say) which won't be happening here. The cooler - well it may help in the situation you described, true - but usually i'd assume the car would be sitting around, run a couple power runs and that's it, with a fan blowing into the engine bay. This is not a proper 'tune'. It can stop power loss through heatsoak / high inlet temps yes, but it's not going to give you more power per se. Essentially what I meant was your not going to get an extra XXkw with those two mods...

I'm voting 180-190(ish) tops. Fuel pump and intercooler will make exactly zero difference to power and as i mentioned my 34 made 185rwkw with some boost, pod and exhaust. Of course Dynos do all read different - 200 on one is 180 on another...

At least...! I just dropped $12k on my R34 to make 273kw, although that was with an expensive ECU and other parts and it has plenty more left in it for E85...

...or more. With a standard ECU you'll probably hit rich and retard (as i did) eventually which makes the car a pig. I managed 185rwkw with exhaust, pod and 13psi. With an aftermarket ECU and Z32 afm (or a better ECU with 3bar map sensor ie Haltech) you might be able to make 210+ on the standard turbo, although don't expect it to last all that long at that power level...

Agreed. GTR has AWD but is therefore heavier. Depends on gear ratios, weights, traction etc etc. I'd say both will be very quick...

Yes if you guys that claim you can't get your xxx half decent tyre to let go on WOT could post your suspension setups that would be great! My average 235s won't hold past half throttle in 1st or 2nd in the dry with standard suspension and slightly lower springs woth 273rwkw.

Hi all, Does anyone know of a good suspension place in Adelaide that would have the knowledge to set up an R34 GTT with 270+rwkw for more traction? Diff cradles, camber arms etc etc? Not just someone that can fit them, but someone that knows their stuff and can get results? Cheers.

Aight

Would tuning for it be that easy - just bung in another couple degrees and run it up on the dyno to make sure it's still not near detonation?

I just happened to be at the airport and needed some petty. United had E10/100 and as i'm not sure what their 98 is like i thought i'd chuck half a tank in. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't going to break anything

No worries. Yeah i plan on getting a netbook to plug into the Haltech and tuning a map for E85 so i can switch between the two as need arises... Just dropped $10k+ on the car though so perhaps i'll leave it a while..

That's what I thought, but is there any danger? ie due to the ethanol content not flowing enough fuel on the PULP98 tune? Or is 10% ethanol not enough to drastically change the flow requirements?

Can you run 10% Ethanol 100 RON (ie from United) on a PULP98 tune without any dramas or do you need to modify fuel / ignition maps? If you can run without a re-tune, is there much benefit?

Assuming from you signature it was a GTR though? Can't really compare the two...

Yes i thought something was wrong from looking at that sheet as well, but couldn't feel it on the road - I tested it on the road this morning - full boost well before 4500rpm so its just obviously either the ramp rate on the dyno or the way the operator put (or didn't put) his foot down! Just goes to show that dyno charts need to be taken with a grain of salt...