gwilkinson34

Agreed. Just thinking of down the track when this car doesn't see the public roads anymore...

What setup have you got that's making 300 by 4k rpm? Traction would be an issue with that i'm sure! My 300 (on E50) is not up til 5.5k rpm.

No R34 part for that one - what would be the difference between the two?

This one? http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-pro

Yeah it becomes an expensive exercise changing tyres...! I think i'd like to try the ABS signal -> Haltech torque reduction feature... sounds pretty neat.

Suggestions on something good...?

3076 with .82 exhaust specifically for a more linear curve to get the power down...!

When the car was on the dyno for an E50 tune, after a few runs the things were like glue. But even spinning them like mad all the way to work (10kms) when i get there they certainly ain't sticky... they cost me $600 a pop and i spent AGES researching and heard rave reviews but perhaps they were more track oriented...?

This guy was highly recommended by Simon at Morpowa (whom I trust)... surprising. I've heard a lot of people say that running lower pressures will improve traction... perhaps a common myth? So basically the next thing (suspension wise) is to try coilovers? Any other suggestions?

Yes when the tyres are warm they'll hold 2nd and about 3/4 throttle in first... getting them warm on the road is next to impossible it seems however...

Yes when the tyres are warm they'll hold 2nd and about 3/4 throttle in first... getting them warm on the road is next to impossible it seems however...

Yeah I just tried dropping them down last night as the suspension guy suggested playing with tyre pressures might help... didn't make a difference so yes I will be putting them back up.

Why do people always claim that stock shocks are best for traction then...? You suggest coilovers?

Anyone else have a similar experience to this? 273rwkw (299 on E50): Stock shocks, slightly lowered King Springs, adjustable camber arms with camber set to nigh on 0, pineapple bushes set to maximum traction and $600ea Yoko Advan Neova 08 semi slicks in 255 only running 22psi pressure and STILL can't put my foot down past half way in 1st or 3/4 in second. Car still certainly moves and is an awesome amount of fun while it hunts for traction but sometimes you just want it to hook up. Thoughts? Suggestions? My money is on 1. Gear based boost; 2. Hooking up the ABS signal into my Haltech with the new software and using torque reduction as traction control or 3. getting even wider rear tyres (what are the widest you can fit on this sucker?). (and yes, I should have bought a GTR)

Looks like a fairly good list for a mild car. You may not need the fuel pump if you are not changing injectors / turbo unless it starts to lean out on the dyno when being tuned. Although it wouldn't hurt to chuck in a GTR pump for safety. If you are not going too wild then a Nistune ECU might be your best (and cheapest) bet. Be warned: you WILL want more power quickly once you've gotten to this stage - guaranteed

You'll want a GT3076r, 700-800cc injectors, Haltech / Vipec / Motec map sensor ECU, fuel pump (take your pick), HD clutch, cold air intake, and E50 or E85 fuel. Oh and a big FMIC. Then you'll want adjustable camber arms, stock shocks and some very wide rear tyres. Do it once and do it right. Hehe

touche And that's pretty much exactly what I was after!

I thought that injector duty was the amount of time it could be open on each cycle - ie in ms - 50% duty meant the injector was open for half the available time etc - therefore the higher the revs the less time available for it to be open (i would assume)? Read it on some EFI website somewhere...

+1 for an ethanol blend. I just got a tune on 50/50 100% ethanol and BP 98 blend and the difference is amazing. Just ran out tonight and had to go back to my BP98 tune and it feels so much lazier - boo for petrol.

I guess another variable though is that at 2k rpm '100%' injector duty is going to be longer than at 2.5k rpm - meaning that the actual inj duties i'm reading may not be directly comparable? Is that right? Ie in 4th it's 3.5% of X (@ 2k rpm) and in 3rd it's 4.5% of 1.2x X (@ 2.5k rpm)....? Or is '100%' duty a constant regardless of RPM?

That's what i figured - surely the time the injector was open and the RPM must relate to petrol consumption. All the other factors mentioned above would then have an effect on injector duty itself, as you would need to put your foot down more if you weren't making efficient power, hence increasing the duty. I think i'll try cruising in 5th and watching my inj duty for a tank and see if I can notice any difference.

I just tuned my car on a 50/50 ethanol / BP98 mix on Monday and it smells so sweeeeet

For example, if cruising at 60kmh in 3rd at say 2.5k rpm and injector duty is at 4.5-5% compared to cruising in 4th at 2k rpm and injector duty is at 3.5-4% - does this mean that the car is using less fuel in 4th? And even less in 5th if the duty is lower again? (I'm assuming here that the injector duty I see is directly related to the fuel in the load/rpm cell I am cruising in for a given gear...) Assuming that each injector is flowing roughly 1% less each time it fires and that it is firing 500 times less per minute - is there a direct correlation between duty and fuel consumption that is this easy to draw, or is it more complicated?

Tuned the above on a 50/50 ethanol and BP98 blend. 299.1rwkw @ around 20psi. (Having trouble attaching the dyno chart...) Tried to crank a couple more pounds into it but the intake temps started going skyward and it actually made less power - obviously a restriction somewhere, going to try to drop the cat and see if that helps. Otherwise it might be the IW exhaust housing? Feels MUCH more responsive throughout the range on the road - ethanol FTW.

+1 ECU: Haltech, MoTeC, Vipec (+1 for asking your tuner). I wouldn't go Power FC if you have the cash - they are getting on and lacking in features, resolution for maps and data logging.