gwilkinson34

Does this actually do anything though? What I understand from reading up on the ECU software is that the desired AFR table is just that, a 'desired AFR' and then you tune the fuel map to reach this... ie changing the desired AFR doesn't automatically change anything tune wise... or have I got that wrong? You would need a wideband plugged into the ECU to get it to know what AFR it was running wouldn't you? (which i will be organising next week...)

Garret make a 4 bolt exhaust housing that bolts straight up to the dump - it's what I'm running.

Guilt-Toy - My Haltech has all those features but i've got no idea how to set them up...? Should probably look into it. As for the gear based boost - the Haltech has that as well but I need to switch from the Profec B to a Haltech solenoid to get it to work... something I've been thinking about doing but not decided yet...

Also on your "as close to stoich as possible" comment - surely that's not the most fuel efficient (across the whole map) way of tuning - leaning everything out a tad on deceleration would provide better fuel economy would it not...?

Yeah I understand your point - but I'm not touching anything above 4,000rpm or half load so it's safe. I wont be mucking with WOT or high boost / load areas of the map (obviously without a dyno) so I don't really see how anything can be broken. Just fine tuning the fuel on idle and light load / cruising. It's the sort of thing that probably doesn't get enough attention on a 'professional tune' most of the time anyway... I've got the original tune saved so really i'm just having a bit of a dip in the 'kiddy pool' area of the map - playing with idle control etc. Spent all this cash so I might as well learn what's going on! Getting it tuned on E85 in a couple weeks so i'll be showing the changes I make to the map to my tuner and discussing it all with him then, while I watch him adjust everything for the ethanol. (I'm the kind of guy that needs to know how everything works, obviously!)

Ps I have no tuning experience and next to no automotive engineering experience - I do have a fair bit of general software knowledge and a working understanding of EFI / forced induction theory - essentially i'm a tuning / mechanic noob but very tech savvy so i reckon I can work it out...

Haltech P2000 - there's an AFR target table but in the docs it talks about dyno tuning and adjusting the fuel table to 'match' the desired AFR target... assuming this means it doesn't automatically adjust? Or does it automatically adjust just timing?

34 GTRs are overpriced IMHO still (unfortunately) - for a good quality one anyway. And yes, they 'used' to be supercars - it's sad to say but the 05+ WRX STis (stock for stock) are quicker than 34 GTRs (a fact that i am LOATHE to admit) - of course some mods and it becomes a different story - but then you begin talking big $$. A 34 GTR has been my absolute dream car for a long time, and I actually had the chance to drive one a couple weeks ago...! And... to be honest... I was a bit disappointed with it. Felt heavy and laggy unless you really had it up in the rev range, my GTT felt much quicker and more nimble (although of course harder to get off the line...) Don't get me wrong, GTRs are great, and my GTT will never be 'as good' or 'as cool' - but for a daily driver that's cost less than a stock GTR it's: cheaper to have bought / built, cheaper to run, more comfortable to sit in, gets less attention from other 'dickheads' (like me hehe) in GTT/GTsT's, gets less attention from cops and i am not scared to leave it parked. I really do hate to admit it, but i'm glad I chose not to go down the GTR path.... Perhaps later when I have a daily XR6T with the kids in the back there will be a 34 nur (or 35) GTR in the garage, but not now.

Hmmm... dyno attached now...!

Sounds good. I just put a 3076R IW with a .82 rear on my NEO - on a conservative daily driver tune (ie MILES away from knock) it makes 273rwkw by 5.75k and holds to redline. No boost control issues at all with the IW. Yes external is better, but also more expensive and harder to 'hide' from our lovely lawmen. Got the genuine Garret article with the 4-bolt exhaust and got a custom manifold spacer and stud extensions made up. Cost me around the same. Dyno sheet attached - wasn't floored on the dyno (or it's to do with ramp rate) so it looks a bit lazy onto boost - on the road in 2nd / 3rd 18psi is up just after 4k rpm. The lift in the midrange over krzysiu's graph i'll attribute to the NEO (saw the same thing at Morpowa comparing mine to an exact same setup R33). Doesn't feel 'laggy' at all (unless you're in 3rd at 50 or something silly) - obviously it takes a bit longer than factory to come on, but it's still much faster off boost than it used to be with a proper tune (i'm running a Haltech P2000 and 3bar map) - but the NEO does help i suppose... I wouldn't go the .63 - lack of throttle control (= too much wheelspin) and excess heat / loss of headroom is not worth it, especially if you are chasing more down the track. Also go the biggest injectors you can find to fit / tune nicely with the ECU you are getting - 270 odd rwkw turns into a nice 320+ on E85 as long as you have the scope in injector duty. 555's will run out before that on E85 and you'll wish you went bigger. I went 750s and expecting 320-330rwkw when i get an E85 tune in a couple weeks - best to get big enough now so you don't change them later - E85 is the future it seems. Just my 2 (or possibly 5) c.

Hi all, a hypothetical (learning about tuning): if I was to drop 3-5% of the fuel out of the base map of an RB25 ie under 4k rpm and under '10' load (tuning in VE) in order to increase cruising and light load fuel efficiency, would I also need to drop an equivalent amount of timing from these areas to compensate for the lower air/fuel ratio? Does anyone know any guides to this effect that compare the relationship of fuel / afr and timing maps? Am I even thinking about this the correct way...? Cheers!

My car owes me around $45k from a stock as a rock 34 GTT to 273rwkw with some wheels. I've got all the reciepts! I can imagine yours would be several times this at least...

Very sweet car. <-- understatement of the year... I will say one thing however - you have way too much $$ for your own good... If you don't mind me asking, how much has this all cost you (roughly)?

Shitty iPhone photo... GT3076R etc - 273rwkw @ 18psi. To be tuned on E85 in the coming weeks.

Classic.

I'll give it a crack again sometime... can't be good for her though

It's hard with a brand new extreme HD clutch...! Such a small grip point it's almost on or off til it wears a bit...

I tried launching my car in second the other night - 5k fairly quick clutch gave me a second of wheelspin then it BOGGED down bigtime - never gonna work with a 3076 i don't think...

Yeah i'm running IW on my 3076.

I'm not after the 85rwkw that Krishy was talking about - I'd be happy with going 273@18psi up to 310-320@20+psi 700-750cc injectors see how we go.

Yellow R34 with bodykit turning right from Glynburn Rd onto the Parade (i think) 8:25am this morning. I was the silver 34 that went past in the left lane.

That's high for a .68! Any other mods? Guess i'm only running 18psi as well...

So all much of a muchness to most 3076 setups - difference in output must be down to happy or sad dynos hehe.

Lots... Cost me like $2500 installed (from memory) and $1200 to tune but Simon and the guys at Jap Motorsport rave about them - the main reason was if i get defected it can be tuned well enough to engineer the car and get it back on the road unlike a Power FC. Got tons of other features to play with later on down the track if the car becomes track oriented (since i'll prolly never see the money i've sunk into it) like traction control, launch control blah blah.

Case in point why i think Morpowa's dyno might be low reading. Simon said he hadn't seen a 3076 over 280rwkw on PULP but there's plenty around on the board hitting 300rwkw with the same setup as mine...