jiffo

R32 GTSt

Perhaps Stao could confirm: According to the e-bay ad, the wheel comes pre-balanced. But then you're coupling that to your old compressor wheel and that whole assembly was originally balanced as a unit with the old ceramic turbine. $300 is a good deal for all those bits, but surely it still needs the new turbine/shaft assembly balanced with your old compressor wheel.

No resistors on a 20. RB20DET injectors are high impedance (13 ohms), top feed 270 cc's (R33)RB25DET injectors are also high impedance (13 ohms), side feed 370 cc's

Any use?

Mines a 90 and doesn't.

Depended on the comply company's interperpretation of the rule. Indicator has to be visible from the side at some specified angle of view. Easiest fix was to fit a side mounted indicator. Then it was argued by some, that the existing front indicator was already visible from the side and it complied. Got to love all the rules. Same thinking behind the extra bumper-bar mounted stop/tails on Patrols etc which have the spare partially hiding the factory items when viewed from certain angles. Or cutting some of the Skyline's and Aristo's etc tail light wiring so that only 2 out of 4 work. Remember how magnified rear view mirror glasses had to be replaced by flat glass in those days too. Now even Commos have the left mirror with magnification from factory.

Yes, but read the DIY's carefully, especially with respect to bleeding the air from your cooling system on re-start.

Try this one. http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa310/g...ent=25wires.jpg

Sorry mate, no better than the one I've got.

There's a few of these in the DIY section. Once you get it down this far, the waterpump job is pretty obvious. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...em-t169471.html

You'll also have to check over your ecu pin-outs since you have an odd ecu. Pins 112 and 114 are swapped between Rb20 and 25. (That's injectors 4 and 6)

Fuel in on bottom pipe, return to tank on top pipe. The front mounted fuel reg is always on the return to tank. The rear mounted "reg" is just a damper to smooth out any pulsing.

You say it was idling at reasonable RPM prior to you cleaning it, and after the clean it's too high. If the only item you've touched is the AAC valve, why go looking at other parts? Usual culprit for high idle is the air reg but you haven't disconnected its plug or removed its hoses have you?

Nissan belt $90 delivered Australia wide from NIZZBITS. Tensioner and idler from any bearing supplier, just check the NSK numbers from the DIY thread. OR Buy a Gates or Dayco kit which will come with all the above plus crank and cam seals.

I had an Rb30 alternator on my Rb20. Belt lines up OK, only need to sort the wiring.

How's the glass on the R32 driver's door? Any scratches from the guides?

Any bubbles on the dash? Mob No?