Jump to content
SAU Community

Duncan

Admin
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    32,831

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    154

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Duncan

    No pink import sticker on 1998 r34 gtt

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    No pink sticker doesn't mean nothing (sorry for the triple negative).

    There have been many import schemes with different rules and registrations over the years. I've got 6 imports with 5 different identifying marks (or not in the case of the race/rally import and parts only bare shell) imported over about 15 years. The 15yo March only has the japanese VIN, the Stagea has a riveted silver plate and the Titan and Fuga have pink plates

    The authoritive information about a given import is a copy of the Import Approval from DOTARS, that can tell you exactly when and under what rules an import happened if you are concerned.

    a hello from France to all the community of a great lover of the skyline for years

    in Newbie Introductions

    Posted

    The block you have is fine, assuming the actual block is OK of course. It looks like RB30S is the carby Patrol version which was not very popular/not a very good match to a very heavy 4wd as an engine so presumably that is what you have; not sure how that turned up in Spain, but good find :)

    You will need to consider turbo oil feed and return points, milling a suitable flat spot and tapping a hole for a second tensioner, and check the oil pickup vs your rb26 sump. You will probably need a 2wd/4wd adapter plate to mount the sump as 2wd sump bolt holes are different (not sure if that is true for rb30 from a Patrol, but I think it is). You might want to redrill the gearbox so the lower mounting points are still available as this is for track use.

    The rest is all so straightforward it is like Nissan wanted us to do it :)

    What oil pump gears?

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    30 minutes ago, Butters said:

    Doesn't a nitto pump send you down a new rabbit hole ? 

    The one were you need bigger sump to stop it emptying. 

    Head restrictor to stop head filling up

    Head drain when it does

    then a plumb back to sump  catch can for when none of the above works ? 

     

    Not being cheeky, serious question as I am putting on a big sumo soon and have a billet gear set but also desire a bit more oil pressure for my vcam. Was thinking gears + a shim to bump pressure. 

    All true, I have those mods with nitto pump on the race car. But I think the key difference is use; on the street there is no condition where you are reving at 4-8,000 non stop for 20+minutes.  Yes, a couple of seconds up to a speed limit (or well beyond) might start to empty the sump, but you are going to get off it and have it return to idle pretty quick.  I expect nitto pumps are only a problem without those mods for track use

    Mysterious power flatline from 5k rpm - tuner is stumped

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    54 minutes ago, CowsWithGuns said:

    A final observation. When I did boost leak tests, I would have to rotate the crank to *exactly* a sweet spot, otherwise air would be blasting into the crankcase as fast as I could fill it. Then it would hold quite reasonably.

    Does this mean anything - I assumed it was normal.

    that is not normal at all. The intake air is sealed from the crankcase by the piston rings (a little should pass but not much) and valve stem seals. However, if it was heading out the exhaust (which might sound similar) that is perfectly normal on the part of the cycle when exhaust valves are open.

    I normally do an intake pressure test up to the last point in the intake I can cap off so I can bring it up to pressure and leave it there to check for slow leaks.

    R32 engine upgrading progression

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    I'm not sure about other intake manifolds, I know the very big power guys have options (generally with single ethrottle conversion too).

    I am sure removing the cat won't cause a lean out, plenty of people have probably done so without issues. Certainly our race car doesn't have a cat. A more important consideration is probably whether you care about the world or not.

    • Like 1

    R32 engine upgrading progression

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    The plenum question might be a bit of a rabbit hole; simply the "intent" or advertising of the nismo item is one thing, but real world results don't show a real problem or difference until much higher power levels.

    In the race car we simply put the injectors in flow order (ie lowest flow in cylinder 1 and highest flow in cylinder 6) AND then add cylinder specific fuel trim +1% on 4 and 5 and +2% on cylinder 6. While this is not ultra efficient it has been safe and effective and I think that is pretty common practice

    R32 engine upgrading progression

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Yep, that car has either had a very careful restoration, or has not seen a lot of roads in its life, good find!

    In terms of next steps to modify it, like niZmO_Man said there is a lot of info on here, but some thoughts.

    Firstly; are you sure you to start modifying a mint, probably stock and certainly very expensive car? Don't get me wrong, your car, your choice, but there would be cheaper places to start if you want to end up with a modified GTR and it is almost certainly more valuable standard.

    Assuming 550hp means around 400 Australian wheel kw, HKS turbos (second assumption, you mean GT-SS III, I'm not sure about their whole, current range) will not get you there and recent posts suggest they are laggy compared to a modern ball bearing single. If you want to stick with twin turbos and get close to that power you want, the tried and tested "-5" Garrets (which I think might have a new name now, but they are specific for GTR twin fitment) with about 20psi boost should get close.

    When you say "standalone" I guess you mean ECU, if not you need to add that to your plans; go with any modern ECU that your tuner is comfortable with.

    I'd agree that all of that is at the limit of a good condition standard engine, keeping in mind that is about 3x the power the car was released with. It would be smarter to rebuild the engine first with forged pistons and rods, new bearings/rings/seals etc and replace that "nismo" oil pump with a tomei or nitto one including an extended crank collar.

    • Like 1

    Attessa engages fully on reverse or slow speed

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    hmmm, well l can see from dash gauge that it is trying to engage ATTESSA at a weird time. Can you confirm the 4wd light turns on with the ignition key and then turns off again (not on or blinking) after you start the engine, ie ATTESSA ECU does not think it has an error?

    Do you know anything specific about how the Motec and stock ECU are wired in? Per page CH-66 of the manual, ECU pins are meant to be wired to ATTESSA and some aftermarket ECUs do not fully allow for that (although I guess Motec is a full custom wire in anyway).

    ECU 37 (RPM) to ATTESSA 31

    ECU 56 (TPS) to ATTESSA 47

    ECU 30 (TPS earth reference) to ATTESSA 48

     

    Removing the ETC system is it worth having holes and marks?

    in Four Door Family

    Posted

    I'd suggest getting your hand behind the ETC unit in the lower dash and seeing if you get any errors from the car if it is unlplugged, then just leave it there; it is integrated in the dash facia and not in the way (or line of sight).

    With the antenna, are you sure it is for the ETC? That will be much harder to get behind and unplug, you will need to work our how it is affixed (might just be tape, might me more solid...)

    And, I don't know the story about v37 australia sat nav (or english conversion for that matter). There used to be a bunch out of Estonia (or maybe Russia, it was never that clear) that swapped Japanese for English hardware but they are gone. As the screen is so integrated with the car functions these days it is no longer simple to change out for an aftermarket head unit. If you cared enough, a local Infiniti Q50/Q60 screen would probably fit and work.

×
×
  • Create New...