Bronx
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Posts posted by Bronx
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if you in sydney call 97571773 and ask for Sam, hes from street style performance, hes got a heap of skyline parts.
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bought not long ago from Just Jap, paid 175 for it, my car was in an accident and a write off so never got around to installing it, comes in original box etc. From memory its a 175 cell.
$120 +postage anywhere in australia
here is a link to the exact product: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=275&page=1
Jean
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+1 on the relocation kit for my stagea, it originally sits in the biggest bullcrap position ever, cant do it from underneath because the front diff and driveshaft are in the way, cant do it from the top because everything else is in the way. you can pull it off by hand with a bit of effort, but the oil spills over your front diff is horrendous even when you try to cover it all up.
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well, for the iridium, i didnt actually pay anything, the mechanic that had them is a really good friend of mine so he gave them to me. but daaaaaamn, gotta drive carefully.
so i guess after about 5000km ill change to pulseplugs to see what they are like.
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im located in Hurstville, Sydney
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nah, they didnt change the plugs, they had holes fired into the bottom. they were really used out. luckily it all got fixed, i got some iridium IX and i was done with it. if i could have had extra time i would have loved to check out pulseplugs though. 130 bucks for all 6. wonder how they would go
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do what 90% of all my mates do, eventhough we are younger, say you were not the driver of the vehicle, get someone with a international licence to fall for you ( for me its easy because i have alot of international friends), they dont get demerits, just pay the fine for them and your all sweet.
its always worked. but you didnt see me write this
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i got same kit, and im on stock height, and its bad enough as is, driveways in this country were designed for the 4wd's.
ive got a heap of chips and cracks all throughout my bumper. cost me 400 bucks for a fix and paint. so if you do get one, be prepared to pay n fix it.
but its a damn sexy kit for sure.
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where can i go for a cheap dyno run??? pref AWD, i remember back on the VW forums, when we had meetings the dyno days were 50 bucks, lunch etc all included. but that was a dyno day, i just want a dyno run.
anyone in sydney?
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fixed the problem, the dealer said they changed the sparkies, but they didnt, they are burned through to the sh*thouse, so changed them with some NGK's and daaaaaaaaamn, car is very very fast now.
but coils are still newish, so drew the lucky straw
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timing belts on too tight....
^what he said or you have an added supercharger.... *crosses fingers*
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i shall get it all done tomorrow, see if my mate has a 2nd set of coils for me to try out too
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ooooh, i seee. when i bought the car it had the 8000k hid globes in it, the xenon ones. wish i could get bixenon, would be so much nicer.
haha, and yeah i know it wont get -20 here, just used it as an example.
but when i was down in ACT for hunting 2 months ago, i went out at about 9am in the morning and it was fogged up to the sh*t, i could not see anything.
eventhough it only hit like -3 but still. also this was mountain range
so most people have purpose built 4wd for these situations and not stageas:p
this was down in Wee Jasper.
i still have videos of the fog too. looked creepy.
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in regards to front fog lights, they are supposed to be yellow, yellow does not create a reflective wall in fogs that normal lights do, so in fog conditions you need the yellow lights.
yellow shines through fog by i think it was 10 times further than the standard lights.
if you drive in fog, with your normal lights on, you will have a major problem driving.
i remember back in germany during winter when its like -20 in the morning, when its dark you can not physically drive with normal lights.
it is impossible to see though a wall of white fog.
but it is illegal to drive with fog lights on during normal conditions because of how bright they are.
also to improve my night vision at night i bought night vision goggles
jksi got a 8000k hid globes
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im not 100% on how it all got done, i didnt do it, the tuner doing my mates skyline did it, i will be going there tomorrow and ill see if i can get a couple of answers.
could be that conrods are shorter or pistons have a differnent top. in which case youll have really low compression but more litres. or even if the crank has a longer stroke/ turning circle. but ill ask him how the fkuk he did that all tomorrow.
since i havent done it i can only speak from word of mouth.
but on another note, i say buy a 24u block and keep your skyline a skyline not a hybrid "Commoline"
i know this thread is about the engine, but is there a car involved??? i kinda got lost after a while....
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oh and by the way, if you want a 2jz engine, make sure you get the black one:
for shits n giggles
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well he didnt use the standard ones, he used a forged set from what ive been told, this was for a customer who wanted massive low down torque and use a giant bloody turbo. this was some years ago, and he got about 600kw at the wheels from it. so this was built for performance. very very high performance.
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oh and in regards to the patrol pathfinder, etc block head combine, i was a bit off
you use the rb30 block, rb26 head and nissan Navara or pathfinder (forgot which one exactly, but a bit of google will surely ifnd it) pistons, conrods and crank.
they will make the engine to a 3.2 or 3.4l engine.
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well the n1 is a stock block, the 2.6l but like nismo did with the ztune, bore to 2.8l
if you want quick spool get some really custom manifolds made, get a lightened flywheel, a balanced or even custom crank and forged internals.
if you get your crank balanced to the weight of your rods and pistons, youll see really quick revs.
how far down do you want the trubo to hit boost?? starting at about 1500-1800rpm???
if so, get a sequential manifold built. run small turbo and big turbo, small to start at about 1500rpm and get the big to kick in at 3k-4k rpm.
if your only looking towards the 500-600hp stick with a rb26, ive seen one on stock block, with bit bigger turbos and forged internals qucikly pull out 340kw atw.
actually i have the dyno sheet if your interested in seeing it.
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the 2jz can fit into your car, ive seen people do it, but thats to turn it into a RWD car, just to attach a gtr box to a 2jz would be overly complicated. then getting a custom harness made and the ecu etc etc.
so why not use a n1 gtr block the 24U?? that thing can withstand just about anything. would be a whole load cheaper than a 2jz conversion. maybe try to get a diff turbo setup, see if you can get it to run in sequential mode, youll see a big increase in that. thats how the TT supra, porsche 959, and partially counting in the VW Golf twincharged engine have soo much performance.
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coils and sparks are about 6000km old.
this is really upsetting me, the frustrations!!! -
open your boot up, and on the top close to where the hinges are, you will see a rubber plug where your wires run out from, one on the left and right, they are kind of rubber plugs. pop them out, and under that if you have a factory connected spoiler there should be 2 screws under there, one right one left and the middle of the spoiler should be glued on with a special rubber glue, kind of like liquid nails, just not as strong.
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oh yes, and also to mention, this may be really weird, but at full throttle i can rev all the way through if im not in gear but in neutral. so just parked, and gearstick isnt in gear, i can put foot to floor and no stuttering, just perfect revs and boost. kinda weird??? some other cars i know have had that too
jks
this is really upsetting me, the frustrations!!!
R34 Gtr - Mystery Light Indicator?
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
Posted
looks like a showerhead, have a shower every 1000km and every 5000km?????
maybe its a service light? saying do a service every 1000km and 5000km???
unless you can get someone to translate the little japanese looking symbol underneath.