kawasakirider

Fingers crossed it's available in 3 months, haha. Nah, goodluck with the sale, mate. If it is here in a few months I'll take it.

Why Auto?

They are bloody crazy... There's a forum I was looking at once, can't remember which one. They had a thread titled "Home protection" and these guys were absolute nutcases... The majority of them had MULTIPLE guns, and not just pistols, fully automatic guns like AK47's, MP5's etc, etc. They would have about 12 guns loaded and hidden throughout the house, and another 45 locked up in the gun closet. Absolute madness. I would LOVE to see a shootout during a home invasion in which a stupid redneck that thinks he's ready gets to utilise his artillery. How the HELL could they seriously think that they'd have the opportunity to run through the house using up all the ammunition in all of the guns they have lying around is beyond me. They seriously must think they are some fictional war hero. If it came down to it, the one gun would be all that's necessary, because they'd either take out the person invading their place, or get taken out themselves. It's like they are living in a movie. The majority also slept with their pistols under their pillows... Idiots.

Not that it makes a difference, but it probably has the VCT tickford engine, being a fairmont.

Must have been your car... Mine is reliable as anything and I've put over 50,000 km on it in the last year and a half.

Thanks mate, I'll probably have a hard time finding all of it used, and locally. But I'll stick to this guideline when I start

Thanks for the advice, btw <br>

How much power could I reliably make like this? I understand not going too large with the intercooler, I want it to be as responsive as possible, not doughy. Also, could this be done for under 2.5k?

How much can I do the first lot of mods for before I get an ECU if I was trying to keep costs to a minimum WITHOUT sacrificing quality and performance, I know I can search for this, but finding the cheapest and knowing if it will perform well without asking would be taking a gamble? I don't mind generic stuff, as long as it's of a decent quality. I'm not big on the wank factor RE the brand loyalty and exhaust, if it performs well I'm interested. Thanks for the reply, Mad. I didn't see it until now. I'm so stoked, I go in for an informal interview (I say informal because it's in the bag) I'm happy It's going to suck if I get the car and trailer it around for the 6 months to work shops, but it will be worth it in the end, haha.

Not trying to be rude, but a car down a cylinder sounds a lot worse than the odd backfire... How did you not notice?

OK, looks like I'll be on the lookout for a pair when I get my car

Will the belt wear away at the side of the seat if a standard belt is used? I'd love a seat like this, but with the ability to keep the back ones.

Thanks for the info

Is there a thread on here explaining spring rates, and how to apply the knowledge to different driving conditions?

Thanks for the info mate, I'll definitely look into coil overs. I always wanted to, but was told that they'd probably be too stiff for regular street driving. I wasn't aware there was a coil over that was designed for the road.

Nothing really, I was labouring under the illusion the skyline was just "better".

Yeah I'm thinking of just king springs in the line, as long as the shocks are in good condition. I don't want something too stiff (I want it to be my daily and have the falcon for emergencies). Are there plenty of swaybar options out there for 34's?

You're kidding me? A set of whitelines and some springs can have an AU handle ALMOST as well as a 34 set up for the street?

Everything I've been told is that the skyline can carve the twisties, albeit not as well as some, but definitely capably. I drive a stock standard AU falcon (read; cumbersome boat), and my next car will be a lowered 34, how much better can I expect the handling to be?

Bit of a tire kick here, so feel free not to answer (it may be helpful for other more serious people) How hard would this be to put into a GT-T and retain the RWD configuration? Are the bellhousings on each box (GT-T and GTR) the same, so it would just match up? Would the sump clear the cross member? Would it be a matter of plugging in the ECU and just turning the key, or is the GT-T harness completely different and the pins do completely different things? There has been the odd 34 going for around $13k at the moment, if I managed to pick one up at this price, and the effort to put this set up into it wasn't monumental, I'd definitely do it. Again, feel free not to answer, because at this point in time, I'm not a genuine buyer, I am genuinely curious, however.

I've been looking at photos, and 34 gtr bucket seats don't mess with the standard seat belts. Will these ones really be an issue?

Looks nice mate, reminds me of the beast that SS8-Gohan used to own. That car was amazing, I drool over the pics of it. Is the current owner of it a member?

Pissing in the wind in regards to it not being worth it, or it being detrimental to the engine? I don't mind it running like a heap for a while as I gather everything to put it together, and then whack the ECU in and get it tuned in one go. If it's "just not worth it" in the beginning, but it all comes together in the end I won't mind. It will save me spending $600 at a tuner about 8 times before it was done.

Joey - Construction mate. At the moment it's road construction, so I'll be trained in various areas. Johnny, thanks mate, I'm looking forward to it Uni isn't really working out for me, especially when I'm not in my desired course. Can't wait to get a 'line haha.

I'm keen to see everyone's opinion on the 34 gt-t's handling