R6n350GT

Im in the process of FI mine and will do a nice DIY as usual i can email some prices of what its costing so far if you like Here is my build list HKS ST Kit (Part list = http://www.boostcrui...howtopic=694747) DeatschWerks 600cc injectors DeatschWerks DW301 pump Turbo XS UTEC with Map sensor Turbo Xs Map selector Turbo Xs Boost solenoid Turbo Xs Knock light NGK Iridium IX LFR6AIX-11 1 step colder plugs Zeitronix ZT-2 + LCD for wideband, A/F, EGT etc Tuning Moding piping Koyo Racing Radiator with 2x Spel 12" Fans Pivot Speed Meter V + TUNING - allow at least $800 to $1500 + Pipe mods as the HLS requires some minor bends and extensions.. To free up Flow in exhaust I have 3" Fujitsubo Legalis R 3" Megan HR Y-pipe To handle that power i am also getting/have some Stopech Slotted Rotors F + R Stoptech SS Lines F + R Stoptech Performance Pads F + R Motul RBF600 BC Racing BR Series Coilovers Whiteline Sway Bars F + R and Whiteline End links

get these, i have coilovers and they always stay the same price, there is never specials allowed with bc racing.. get these now with massive discount and if you feel its not enough you can always get coilovers later once you forget about the money u spent on sways! by the way, your looking at 1200 or 1300 for coilovers install $ i did myself set up money $250 including a $60 4 wheel alignment I didnt have to spend money for camber kit as my camber was fine without them but if u do thats another $500 You will get as much from the sways i have been told, you can always get a 2nd hand coilover kit if you watch ebay or on here but a killer deal like this will prob not come again..

Wow, awesome work bro, fantastic! Will look much tougher now! Through a Ls1 in the car to match the look now!!

if your on the gc i can help also!

Found this by accident again, but its now ending the end of May and 6 months after cleaning windows still going strong

Yeah i agree, we need a DIY section. I have never had any of the stuff posted stickied. I would rather this one as a sticky as it contains alot of good info... (COUGH MODS???!!!) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346667-servicing-your-v35-list-of-whats-needed/page__gopid__5817978#entry5817978 DIYs i done so far are Zeitronic Zt-2 with LCD Pivot Speed Meter V Blinder M47 / Parking Sensor DIY How To Fix Door Lock (Actuator) DIY G35 Coupe Halos DIY Guide Beltronic STi Radar Detector Next one i do will be for Utec EMS + Map sensor, 5way map selector, boost solenoid, knock sensor and then the whole HKS Single 3037 turbo kit!

Pivot Speed Meter V - 1/4mile, G-Force, Speedo 280km+, Speed de-limiter V35 Link Zeitronic Zt-2 with LCD - Wideband A/F, Boost, Lamba Link

Thanks I think it's my 5th one so far so appreciate your thanks, I don't always get it! I do them when I see no one else has, I have learnt so much about my car so just like to share!

i think you should get sway bars isntead!!!! there is a group buy happening !!!!

PAID jawrg your next ! We will then hassle the others otherwise this will never happen!

When u get 245 or 255 front and 285 or 295 rear its cheap to get from usa so far. Postage about $350

Installation: Step 1: Wind windows down, take off positive battery terminal Step 2: Remove ECU, there is a little tab you push and then the handle pulls down and the ECU just comes off. Step 3: Remove the inner black cover and also the tape that hold the sleeve on the wires. Then roll the sleeve up to expose the wires. Step 4: Wire 1 – Red : Switched positive connected to ECU pink pin #119 or 120 Step 5: Wire 3 – Green : RPM connected to ECU yellow/red pin #62 Step 6: Wire 7 – Black: Ground connected to ECU thick black pin #1, #115 or #116 Step 7: Wire 10 – Grey: TPS connected to ECU green (US), white (JDM) pin #50 Step 8: Tape the wires back up, pull sleeve down and then tape the sleeve Step 9: Push ECU back into place, push the leaver back up. Step 10: Mounting the Zt-2. I used 3M dual lock Velcro, just a bit up at the back so when I wedge the zt-2 in between the cabin filter and ECU it will hold. Connect all your wires. The dual adapter goes into DATA, then the cable that runs to the LCD plugs into it, and then another cable runs from the dual adapter to the serial to USB adapter for the laptop. I keep the serial to usb adapter in the upper glove box as I have no DVD player Installing LCD Step 1: Take out the BOSE stereo Drill a hold either on the left or right, in the higher corner of the upper cubby. It is actually easier to drill from the outside. Step 2: Use 3M Dual lock volctro to mount the bracket. I used a heavy duty door hinge, I picked one that would not open and close easy, the more fused the better. Step 3: Run the LCD wire through the hole and then cable tie it along outside of the glove box to the Zt-2 box Open: Half close (closes all the way for complete stock look!) All turned on ! Zeitronix Software: If you have the Belkin serial to USB adapter and have trouble with windows 7 and drivers then here is the solution! http://www.clearchai...4bit-mac-osx-10 Your Done! I have not covered the EGT probe or the O2 probe as I have not got the turbo installed so no point. I will update when I get the HKS 3037 ST kit installed

Wanted to do a DIY guide as i have found nothing for the Zt-2 Zeitronic and G35/350Z Here are pdf instructions for Zt-2 http://www.zeitronix.com/installation/ZT2instructions.pdf ECU pinout http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/2003_2005_G35_350z.php and http://www.cj-motorsports.com/03pinout.htm Huge thanks to Marc from www.zeitronix.com for all his help ! Zeitronix are fantastic when it comes to support, if you buy a zeitronix then you will always have someone there to help you! I can’t believe the speed at which they reply, im very impressed Other Notes I have read Newest instructions do not require 8 - Brown to be grounded. - Pre 2010 models will use this if they have another sensor they want grounded but it wont show up on the LCD - Post 2010 models can use this wire to display info from additions sensors on the LCD One brown wire is for Zt-2 MAP ground (11) second one (8) for standalone EMS with differential wideband input User1 (Zt2-pin 12) blue wire is for any 0-5 volt type sensor reading like boost. knock etc. Only wires you 100% you need to connect for just the Zt-2 to run are 1. Red (12V) 3. Green (tach/rpm) 7. Black (Ground) 10. Gray (tps) If you have a Zeitronix MAP Boost sensor then you need to connect 4, 6 and 11

Speed meter is good for those that dont want to fork out for the 280km speedo. I find it is within 1km within the speedo up to 100kms and then 2km within when above 110km. You can test your 100, 200 and 400m times and also see what G-force you launch, and brake with. It is very easy to see out of the corner of your eye when driving. I have not seen much info at all for installing this so after i figured it out im posting the way to do it. Instructions: http://pivotjp.com/d...f-e/SML-V-e.pdf Our cars cannot have the speed limiter with this unit but its still awesome for its other functions. Mounting: I dont smoke so its a good place to put it, in the cigarette lighter! Step 1: Once you unplug all the cables from the ashtray, remove the 5 screws holding it in and it comes out. Then remove the silver cover, one screw needs removing. Step 2: You will need to wedge the clear tab out the way, then file the top left corner off. Step 3: You will need to cut slots so the cable can sit in it while it closes. Upper section Lower section Step 4: Sit the unit in the cigarette lighter and run the cable through the slot. Insert the plastic tab back in Step 5: By the end of it you can see the cable, you will need to leave the grey cover off, and therefore have the light sat near the clear plastic. The grev cover will restrict the cables moving freely so you have to leave it off. I cable tied the cables at the bottom where the bright white bit is.. Wiring it There are a few places for the VSS (speed sensor wire) 1. Under the glove box where dvd/sat nav is. 2. Behind stereo (light green in US but may be blue/black for JDM) Top right hand wire when the plug is facing towards you 3. Behind combination cluster 4. Behind the clock (need to remove screws either side and lift up LCD) May be the wire 3rd from the left of the far right plug. White/Black Step 6: Once you chose which wire to use you need to splice a wire into it and then tap a female connector to it Bottom left plug is the one im using that has the VSS wire. The Blue/Black wire you splice into Step 7: crimp a male connector to the end of the white cable from the speed meter loom Step 8: We need a switched positive, i used the cigarette lighter, user a wire with a female end and splice into it Connect a male connector to the positive red speed senor wire and then you can plug it into the spliced positive Step 9: Now the grounding, put a ring lug on the end of the black earth of the speed meter wire and ground it to the chassis here, right above the BCM module. Tidy all the wiring up, before you properly put everything back test it !! Pulse setting for correct speed. Hold the mode button down for 3 seconds and then click the set button until it says N-2 or L-2 Should open and close easy! Your done!

So far there are a few of us in the v35 thread so anyone wondering go there

Count me in, and I did I crap load of reading on g35 driver and it's safer to replace end links, I was not sure but I'm def going to do them now

Hey OP, where u live?

i read so many posts and stoptech are the best for what you are after...

Well lets go!!! if anyone needs help on gc I can lend a hand.

Did you upgrade link ends?

Come on people, put it this way, i have 245/40/19 on front and 285/35/19 on rear, BC Racing BR coilovers set up for performance not looks and i am still after more handling, you can never get enough. I cant wait until i get them. If you want to be fast u have to do suspension !!!!

Here is a DIY guide, will be piss easy to do ! From all ive read its a good idea to do end links at same time. http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/266822-diy-aftermarket-sway-bar-installation-huge-pics.html So comeone ppl buy a set !

I have Brembros so they prices are a bit more than non - brembos but after searching so many places i got prices direct from these two guys Brembo F + R stoptech performace pads (Street use and Track, as good as project Mu without the rotor wear) Place 1 (Grip-force brakes): $118 + 35 shipping Place 2 (HRauto parts): $100 + 45 shipping

yes please 1/5

Depends who u with, nrma just want them to be ADR approved, they don't list them on ur profile. Ring them up but I highly doubt they care