RBnub

So i went to remove my radiator today and i cant seem to get the bottom screw on the shroud (turbo side of engine bay) out as there is no room to get a screwdriver there. does anyone have any hints before i tackle it again tommorrow.

thanks alot . I currently have a greddy pro b spec 2 controller mounted inside my ash tray and the original ecu is simply remapped so looks stock. I'm using a stock fuel rail so its hard to make out any difference in injectors (if you don't know what to look for). so i think i should be pretty safe ATM i will just have to take my chance when i do a better build on the car and only drive it once a week and hope i don't attract any attention. if i go driving with a friend who has a HQ one toner with a 545 big block im pretty sure he will take most the heat anyway

Thanks for the advice by the sounds of things I better get myself a set of gears. I presume the cheaper selection of gears ($50-$100 a gear) are probably not worth buying. Am I better off sticking with a tomei/Greddy/hks gear?

Hate to dig up an old post but it seems the law is a prick of a thing when it comes to emmisions. My rb20 has 230kw and was just wondering if the remapped ecu/ bigger injectors/ boost controller are legal to have. I know the pod I have with the front mount attracts some attention so I will chase down a standard box.

Thanks for the info been doing some searches and have found alot of helpful tips on pulling the head off and what to replace. Just didn't find alot on cams but I know just about any head work on an rb20 is a waste of money.

I'm pulling the head off my rb20 soon for a new head gasket and replace a few seals (cops In cairns are cracking down hard at the moment). I'm going to replace the timing belt aswell and was wondering if it was worth getting some tomei poncams and cam gears while it's all out. Car currently runs 230kw at 20psi was wondering if there is much to gain from the cams and gears.

Haha I know but I'm sure there's someone out there who will buy it one day the Greddy kit would be 1200 each part. But I'm thinking it might be worth it. Cheap mods cost more I'n the long run. Trust me I'm forever looking for replacement parts for all the cheap mods on my car from the previous owner. Lol.

Yeah I guess the hks 2530 is a little small for 260+kw. Never read much into the td06 but found the kit here http://nozzs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=146 for $1250 which is a bargain if we are talking bang for buck. Saves hassles with finding a new turbo/ manifold/ extended dump pipe/ extended oil line ect. I think it might be my best option. Save a few dollars for cams.

I've done some searching and am finding it difficult to get a "decent" top mount manifold without the external gate setup as I wish to run a hks 2530 or my rb25 neo turbo with highflowed internals. Manifold would be for a rb20det. Any ideas on a good brand that won't see me swearing after 3 months.

turns out the battery has had it.. >.< well at least it wasn't anything serious

Just finished putting my turbo manifold on the car put everything back together but the car won't start. The car has been sitting for 2 weeks without being driven. It will crank but the the engine won't start.

Not sure of the specs for the r33 injectors bit getting yourself a set of GTR injectors is a popular choice. I run gtr injectors and don't have a problem running up to 20 psi I'n my r32

If you are still running standard boost then it is fine. 7 psi is standard for an r33 for but with an exhaust and front mount it's likely to creep up to 8 or 9 which is still very safe. Get yourself an aftermarket boost gauge if you really want to know what it's running at.

Yeah the head is the only thing holding me back on going through with anything on this car. Already having a Nismo high volume pump, gtr injectors, FMIC, Greddy type RS BOV, 3" exhaust, highflowed r34 turbo all working through a nistune might be easier to spend the money rebuilding a rb25 and whacking it In with a better ecu. From what your telling me an rb25 would see considerable improvement I'n my r32 then In a r33. I will have to look into what's involved In the conversion. Like a better gearbox for the extra torque ect.

Haha yeah I bet But I still can't shake the feeling when boost creeps up on you In a laggy set up . Previously owning an r33 the extra torque didn't really amuse me much on the street.

i never said i didn't like the lag i currently run 230kw in my r32 and its definitely a laggy setup. . i don't mind sacrificing a little torque for power since the rb20 has next to no torque anyway. having quite a large rev range helps compensate a little.

at the moment its running a rebuilt and high-flowed r34 turbo but i am obviously looking to upgrade to something with a little more mid range response as the rb20 tends to get quite a bit of lag. only replacing the manifold because the previous owner has done some dodgy machining to the original one. so by the sounds of it i think i will just hunt down a decent bottom mount manifold as a replacement and save the extra cash for something else.. anyone have any brands to recommend other then the ones sold on for next to nothing.

hey guys and girls i own a HCR32 with the standard rb20det motor. im planning a build on my rb20 looking at around the 260kw+ margin. i know the easier way would be to go with an rb25 but i like a challenge and i like the little rb20. just wondering if there is much to gain with a top mount manifold over a polished bottom mount? i presume that getting the top mount would cost extra as i would have to extend the turbo water/oil lines and make adjustments to the front pipe of the exhaust as well as the intake pipe and plumb back pipe from the BOV.. any tips are much appreciated

If you are handy with your tools then its cheap enough to do it yourself. But you will have to take your turbo off as mentioned above. The genuine studs from Nissan are the best way to go or ARP make stronger ones for a price. You will need to get the manifold machined flat so that it can get a good seal with the new gasket. Make sure that cost from the exhaust shop includes the machining of the manifold. You can replace the gasket without machining the manifold but there is always a greater chance it will leak again over time. Do it once do it right

Yes the car has been lowered. It's scrubbing on the outide of the tyre due to the camber. Guards are not rolled but the front left tyre does not rub at all. So there must be something else that is causing the right side to sag a little more.

Hey guys I own an HCR32 gtst and I'm having an issue. Car has had a distinct creek In the front right of the car when hitting bumps and going up driveways. The noise is comming from the top of the wheel guard and just recently has been causing the guard to scrape on the wheel when hitting bumps or turning left at more then about 30km/h. I have checked all the bushes and they are fine as the person I bought the car off had replaced them about 6 months ago. Can anyone steer me In the right direction on what to check or look for. I have searched the forums and most of Everyones problems are bush and spring related. Both of these are less then 12 months old on the car so I'm looking for other options.

Spot on mate. Jacked the car up to find a 5mm hole blown In the water line. Guess they were due to be replaced

Hey guys I drive a 1989 HCR32 gtst. As it would happen I pulled into my home and heard a loud hissing noise as I parked and seen a large trail of coolant leeking from just inside the front left wheel onto the floor (exactly where my turbo is about In the engine bay). I popped the bonet to notice steam pouring out from around the turbo. Any thoughts on what might have caused this? I haven't observed anything else as yet as the car is to hot and it's very dark at 7pm lol

+1 to solving your own problem

Haha thanks Yeah I have a special set for getting studs out of the block. Will have some fun wrestling the nuts off the studs. Might take the whole manifold out completely off the turbo and paint it up since it's looking a little sad ATM. Will make getting the studs out easier to.