RBnub

I have found that the first and last studs have snapped on my exhaust manifold for my r32 gtst. Was wondering if anyone had any tips to removing the remaining 10 studs. I have already disassembled a few bits and pieces to make room and removed the heat shield. Just need some assistance on tips for removing the remaining studs without snapping them.

Is there a company or site that sells a Standard or aftermarket air box for an r32 gtst can't afford the risk of running a pod filter I'n cairns with the Poe Poe here.

So I've searched a few threads and decided that I have a leaking manifold. Fast ticking, metal vibration at certain revs and I can hear the air leaking when the motor is cold. So I figure I have a metal gasket that needs replacing somewhere. Due to the extremely loud induction noise it's making can I presume it is Iether the dump pipe exhaust manifold or could it also be the turbo manifold gasket?

Yeah air here is usually hot and humid. Not the best sort by any means. Any suggestions on getting colder air besides changing location lol. It has a monza FMIC as far as intake mods go.

I want less induction noise and to kill the flutter from my pod filter. Would it be easier to just get a k&n cold air box. Police are pretty strict In cairns. Like to keep it as quiet as possible without loosing to much or any power. I'm running a plumbed back RS Greddy BOV.

Haha well you have me convinced.

Yeah but like with anything corse you always have to be careful of trims and paint. I usually cover or tape around the outside of the area.

Had a quick look today and noticed that the breather hole on the BOV is sucking In air. Is it suppose to do this? If I block it with my finger the car let's out a backfire when reved. What are your thoughts ?

Cheers guys big help I will check for a blocking plate today

I bought an r32 2 months ago and the blow off valve does not work. It has been plumbed back into the air intake after the AFM. I tried removing the plumbing from the BOV but nothing happens. Air continues to flutter back out of the pod filter. The BOV has a spring in it but the trumpet remains open no matter how hard or soft the BOV is set. I presume the guts have probably been blown out of it due to the 20 psi boost it previously ran. Just looking for an outside opinion. The BOV is a Greddy type RS I'm pretty sure.

Cheers big help

Looking for the best solution to getting rid of the rear wiper blade without replacing the rear glass. Is it possible to just remove the bulky horrible wiper and get something to plug the hole up In the glass.

Hey guys I'm a qualified glazier and we use all sorts of methods of getting rid of mild and harsh water staining. Another good cheap method for light stains is 'gumption'. It's a very coarse multi purpose cleaner you buy at the supermarkets. Also most companies that sell hardware for glass also sell stain removers of there own. We are supplied by 'CRL' which have there own stain removers In 3 different strengths depending on how bad the stains are.

I have a AFM from a 300zx I'll check the smoke this afternoon along with my BOV flange. I will isolate the noise aswell so I know where it's coming from. I dont understand why the noise only occurs just at the start of boost and then disappears and comes back as boost drops when changing gears or letting off the throttle. Between the range of around 1-18 psi it makes no strange noise at all. Just to try and describe it a little more In depth, say I was going down the road I'n 3rd gear climbing slowly. The initial wind of the turbo is fine between the range of -8 psi and -1 psi on the boost gauge. As soon as it hits the 0 psi mark the whistle of the turbo turns into a clean ginding noise (like an old ceiling fan on high speed). The noise plays out until boost starts to climb then it's gone. change into 4th and I hear the noise again for a split second as the turbo winds down past the 0-1 psi mark.

It's quite loud grinding noise. If you put your foot down you can only hear for a second as it hits boost and then again when the boost comes back down on 0psi. The boost gain is quite long so it's very noticeable when just sitting on 0-1 psi. But other then that at higher boosts it sounds like a dream.

The only way to describe the sound is like a drop saw cutting metal. It's not a very nice sound at all. I will check all my seals tomorrow.

I own a r32 Gts-t standard rb20DET with a rebuilt r34 highflowed turbo. After letting the car warm up for a couple minutes I start driving and the turbo makes a screaching noise just as boost comes in then stops after it reaches over 2 psi roughly. After the car warms up more the noise becomes obsolete. Just wondering if this is a sign of problems to come.

Hey everyone! My name is chris I live In cairns. I'm a proud owner of a 1989 R32 Gts-t. After having my last r33 stolen I decided to try out the smaller rb20 engine. I look forward to talking to you all, this site has already been a big help to me. Hopefully I will get some photos soon of my r32.

I have a black R33 1995 model Gts-t that was stolen from an apartment complex in Edmonton. if there is anyone in the area that has seen a lowered black r33 with body kit, boot lip, front mount intercooler and white r32 rims, can you please contact me on 0421993736. the police are having no luck finding the vehicle so I'm just getting the word out. thanks.