Methor

Thanks everybody for confirming that the place was ripping me off... Or just doing a shitload of work to the injectors that I didn't fully understand, which if I could explain properly you'd probably go "Ohhh... Maybe..." All I have to do now is find a place that isn't going to rip me off that's somewhat close to me. (Vic, S.E Burbs)

Yeah, basically... They quoted $2200 to rebuild the Turbo's as Steel Ball Bearing Turbo's using the original housing. $2800 to do the same as Hi-Flow. I'm not looking to spend heaps and heaps on the engine, it's why I'd go for the $2200 Turbo's. It's the Injector rebuild I'm not looking forward to, but it will need to be done, it's causing issues with my fuel consumption... Getting about 350km a tank from moderate driving Also, I think that $40 is just for a new injector head.

Tell me about it... Worst part is... I got quoted about $6,500 all up to fix it. $4K+ for the injectors & Oil leak, $2200 to rebuild both turbo's with steel ball bearings. ($2800 to go hi-flow) Seems a little expensive to me, even if it is an import car... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Okay, so $250 and a day later... I have found out the following: Rear Turbo blew out a bearing... I have the remnants in a plastic ziplock bag Fuel injectors are leaking And there's an oil leak into the rear turbo... When it rains, it pours

@MrStabby: Can you define 'Rough running' for me? Do you mean popping/farting. Or it just struggles to get Rev's up?

Yeah, even when I didn't have this problem, I didn't really push the car past 5K Rev's, so that's not an issue for me.

I'm going to try and take it down to an exhaust place tomorrow and see if they can pull it off to have a look. At least that way, I should be able to narrow down the problem. I'd find it a little weird if it was the Turbo's themselves that had exploded/dropped parts, as there was literally no noise (Bangs, clunks, clangs, tingles, etc) when they stopped working. If they had dropped parts, I would probably have smoke out the exhaust as well, as it is... There's no smoke coming out at all. I did manage to figure out how the exhaust sounded different though... It sounds strangled and muffled compared to normal... So that would say that there's some form of blockage. Fingers crossed this is an easy fix And thanks to everyone for the help

@Don: No, nothing out of the ordinary, one minute I had boost, next minute I didn't. And I'm running 5 pounds of boost (Which is the stock tuning I believe) @Everyone else: Thanks for the help, I'll get it down to an exhaust place Thurs or Fri. It's probably time I thought about putting on a new exhaust anyway... Car is still stock standard

Hi, I'm not sure if this should go here or in the General Maintenance Section but; Today when I was driving to work, I started to drive up a hill and my Turbo's wouldn't engage. I looked out the rear mirror and the car wasn't blowing any smoke to indicate shagged Turbo's. I thought it might have been the AFMs, but the last time I had an AFM die on me in the GTR the car would refuse to go above 4K rev's (Same thing with my old WRX) and a light would 'activate' on the dash on the right hand side (In the 4-cluster where the AWD light is) and it would just bog down when I tried to accelerate. This isn't happening this time. However, as it is now, I can drive the car normally, it rev's out to 7K and feels like I'm driving an N/A car. The car just refuses to boost and on the standard 32 GTR 'boost' display it stops just before hitting 0. I can hear the Pod Filters sucking in a minute amount of air, but there's no blow-back when I take my foot off the accelerator. Is there any way I can tell if this is an AFM, Turbo, ECU or Pod Filter without having to buy new parts? Obviously there's the standard "Take it to a Doctor" response, but if it's something simple that I could do myself, I'd rather do that, than take it to someone and have them waste their time on it being something simple. Also, is there a possibility it could be the exhaust somehow? I noticed on the drive home that the exhaust sounded different to normal, can't really explain how it sounded different, I just know that it did. Thanks in advance for any help provided

My bad, sorry... It was 94dB @ 5100rpm, so in 21 years my exhaust has gained 2dB. But still came out factory spec over the 90dB rating.

Firstly, Sorry if this is in the wrong section, but there were other exhaust questions, so i thought this would be the place. Also did a search and couldn't find any topics or answers for my question. So the other day I got a letter from the Vic EPA basically saying that a Police Officer believed my exhaust to be "Too loud" or "Faulty". I had a little bit of a chuckle, but then thought... Okay, it might be blowing a bit of smoke, so I went down, started up the car, let it warm up to running temp and revved it quickly a few times (No smoke) and held the revs at 5K (No smoke). It never occurred to me that it would be the dB rating of my exhaust because my 32 GTR is stock standard, apart from Pod Filters instead of the AirBox. Feeling confident, I went to get my EPA Compliance certificate as I felt the Officer had just picked on my vehicle because he saw a Skyline and something was loud. Anyway, car failed the EPA test (96dB rating), mechanic thought it was weird as well and checked the Catalytic Converter to see if that had blown out, nope, still intact. He then basically said he could just make up a new rear muffler and exhaust tip to bring it under the 96dB rating. However, after doing some research I found that the factory exhaust dB rating for a 1990 R32 GTR was indeed 96dB. My question is this: Has anyone experienced something like this before? Having a stock exhaust that still runs like the day it came out and getting an "EPA Compliance" request. Did you end up changing your exhaust to get below the 90dB rating, or did you just point out the fact that the car came out factory standard with a 96dB rating? If so, how did you go about this? Kind of like how a Mini Cooper can be defected for being "Too low" but then just showing that factory standard is the low ride height, which is under Vic standards. I'm going to call the EPA tomorrow and question them on this as well, see what they have to say. But being a Government body, I expect them to be all "90dB is the standard, your car has to be under this... There is no exceptions to what we say, ever.... We are the Government, we know what's right..... lalalalalalalalalalala NOT LISTENING!!!"

I'm a little confused on this one, are you looking at just swapping out the old turbo for a new one. Or changing it from a single to twin? If it's just a swap, you really shouldn't have any problem unless it's an illegal turbo in the first place, failing that, just rework the piping to hide the turbo 'under' the engine. Unless you get an Officer whose looking to bust your balls, they're not going to get on all fours to look under the car and risk getting their uniform dirty. None of my friends have been done for their AMarket turbo's in their car and my old WRX was never done for that either. The other trick, have something in the engine bay that stands out that could be considered illegal. There's some BOVs out there that are perfectly legal (No wastegate noise) but are made to look like one that does, cops see that and pretty much ignore the other stuff. Other good one is pod filters if your car comes stock with an Intercooler and it's still the 'stock' one that comes out. You'll get told that the Pod filters are illegal, just fire back in that "I'm totally ignorant because it's my first Turbo car" manner that you thought a vehicle was allowed one air-modification (Pod or Intercooler) and since it came standard with the Intercooler, the Pod is the mod (Worked for me on the WRX). Just my experiences from the past, hope they might help.

Why wouldn't you believe that? You can still pick up 32 GTR's with less than 100K on the clock, original and that's a 20y/o car. But yeah, that 34 looks awesome!

Thanks Terry, Although there is one silver lining should I have an accident in this car. Purchased it for $16K, insurance payout is $22K Although, I wouldn't want to have to write it off.

Whilst yes I do agree that Young drivers do speed, etc, etc. I do not agree that they are as dangerous as elderly drivers. Young drivers are fully aware that they speed, it is a conscious choice for them and unlike the eldery (I believe) they have the reaction times to avoid the majority of their 'fatal' accidents. However there are times when I agree that some Young drivers are too dangerous for the road, however that can be said for ANY age group. But I have seen more times when older drivers have caused accidents or near-misses than younger drivers. As an example on my way home from work on Monday I was in the left hand lane coming up to the intersection of Burwood Hwy & Scoresby Rd (Outbound on Burwood Hwy), there were a few cars in front of me that turned into the dedicated left hand lane, leaving me free and clear to 'take pole' at the intersection as the lights had turned red. As I was approaching the intersection I began passing a VW or Renaut, then without warning the car suddenly starts coming left. I hit the horn and just blast it whilst moving left myself After about 5-10 seconds the elderly driver realised that he was doing something wrong and moved back into his lane. Once I was passed he just snapped right back in behind me, no indicator or anything. I didn't even get an apology wave or anything from him, drivers like that are the ones that make me want to get out of my car and verbally abuse them. Now, as for the OT. Reasons for re-tests: Should a young person be convicted of any driving offense whilst on their L's or before they even have a license. They should have to resit the driving exam every year for the first 5 years. Should a driver have their license suspended or be on a 'good behavior bond' with their license. Re-test every year for the next 5 years. Should a driver have their license suspended or be on a GHB a 2nd or 3rd time. Re-test twice a year for the next 5-10 years. ANY Driver that is charged with a 2nd offense of 'hooning' to sit a re-test before they can start driving again. The above reasons would be paid for by the driver, without question. Failure to attend a re-sit would be an automatic license disqualification for 1 year, unless there was a seriously good reason why you couldn't make the test. The below reasons would be paid for by the Gov't. Compulsory re-testing for ALL drivers every 5 years. Any major surgery performed would require a re-test every 1-3 years (Depending on the type of surgery) Compulsory re-testing of ALL drivers should there be significant changes to the road laws. I do not agree with just picking an age-group say 50+ to say, okay from here on out, you guys have to sit more retests. But those are just my ideas.