
hazerb30
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Everything posted by hazerb30
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i pulled the front bar off. For anyone reading this in future and looking for help. It took a while because i had the find all the screws and some were siezed. http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/index.php...4&Itemid=44 So now Intercooler and hoses are off. pulled the outside covering off each intercooler hose and couldnt see any splits or leaks. Intercooler looks clean but im going to flush it with 50/50 methylated spirits and kerosene. Ill also take it to a radiator place tomorrow to make sure it doesnt leak. Buying new intercooler hoses even though these look ok. When i put new hoses on should i bother putting the original rubber outer covers on? see pic These are the ones im planning to buy . wish they made them in black. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/INTERCOOLER-HOSES-N...1QQcmdZViewItem Will check BOV's once i get the intercooler back in. Unless there are checks that can be done without the car running. Theres a pic there of the left one
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I didnt spin the turbo I had to use a mirror to look in the pipe to see the compressor wheel Ive got a catch can on order so i can see just how much is coming out the breather. Glad i pulled pipes off to see what actually happens now and understand the usefulness of a catch can Whats the easiest way to get to the blow off valves ? Pull the front bumper off or something? Thanks for the help! Michael
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Pulled off all pipes to the turbos, checked and reattached Wastegates are not stuck compressor blades are still there, cant see exhaust Reset ECU ECU Diagnostics are 55 meaning all ok Ive done a compression test ~160 accross all Car idles and drives fine, Still only making 0.4 bar I havnt pulled the turbos off yet. Surely if the turbo went while i was driving it i would get smoke or at least hear the wheel shoot out the exhaust. Is there some other way to know the exhaust wheel is gone besides pulling the turbos off? Not getting much help here? Im stuck driving an 80's hilux ute with a speedo cable that drags on the road ! i guess i should be appreciative of that.. could it be something to do with the BOV's? how could i check
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Cheers. Ive just got back from pulling it to bits. I didnt get as far as pulling the turbos off cos daam that looks like an all nighter and i didnt have any bandaids I did get the pipework off them though. What i found: On the rear turbo inlet pipe there is oil coating the sides and a dribble of oil pooled in the compressor side. The front turbo pipes are clean. What it looks like to me is the oil is coming from the breather hose thats attached to the rocker cover. Its all i can think of that would explain how oil gets in before the turbo. Is this a normal thing to get a bit of oil blowing in and surely this much would be excessive? Now from what ive read here the worst case scenario would be that bits of the ceramic wheel have gone through the engine and scored the pistons and bores and that would cause this oil covering the pipe. Unfortunately there was no cat in the car to catch any fragments so i cant check there (my friend borrowed it to get his starion over the pits ). To me it seems like i would have to pull the turbos off to see whats happening I dont know for sure what the turbos are. All I could see was garret 1-2 written on them. If they are the ceramic turbos i dont see any point pulling them off without having replacements ready to go so ill have to research what to get. Anyone in WA that has something lemme know ! There was no 'moment' when this happened. No bang, nothing. just started it up one day and noticed it wasnt pulling very hard. I know the car pretty well so you'd think id notice when something went wrong. So im thinking of this plan so far: Compression test to see whats what Locate replacement turbos Pull old turbos off and see whats what Pray for the best What do you guys think ?
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advice anyone?> My friend thinks it might be the wastegate stuck open on one of the turbos. Im going to pull the intake piping crap out of the way and have a decent look in there.
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Hey Guys, My GTR wasnt pulling anywhere near as hard as usual last night. I watched the boost guage and its only hitting 0.3 bar and sometimes might make it to 0.4 So im fault finding and could use some help. Its a pretty much stock R32 GTR 140'000kms. Standard computer I believe the turbos are the standard ceramic ones still. Aftermarket exhaust I believe the boost restrictor may have been removed but to be honest ive never checked. I think it goes to near on 1bar so i think its been taken out. Engine sounds normal, no change or nasty noises. Drives fine im just keeping it off boost now until i get it figured out. I didnt hear any pop or bang noise or any 'moment' when it went wrong. No bad exhaust smoke I had a compression tester available a couple weeks ago so i did that for interest sakes. 160 to 164 accross all which i believe is good. From reading posts on here a lot of people said their gtr's stopped making full boost because the computer detected knocking or leaning out. They would turn ignition off and back on and then it would make full boost for a while. I tried this and mine never makes over .04bar. Where do i go from here ?
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I have thought about this as well and think its a great idea if the right 'business plan' was put into action. I have a friend who part rents a workshop in bayswater with 4 other blokes who are into rallying and such. Its quite expensive but considering the tools available to everyone there and combined knowledge/resources i think its worth it. Maybe have bays that can be rented on a monthly basis for people who are doing extensive work and other areas that people can drop by and do quick jobs.
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what a waste of spearmint snakes
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doubt it. The stock oil pressure sender will send through a signal and you will probably get something on the guage but its not going to be accurate. You will need to use the sender they provide you with the guage. Most people get an oil pressure sandwich plate to mount the sender to
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Is that silver and light green on that interior?? What were they thinking!
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Leaking Slave/clutch Pedal
hazerb30 replied to Tig's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
as long as its not a GTR or you have to bend over and accept the higher prices. No aftermarket master/slave available for 32 gtr that i have been able to locate so genuine nissan or nismo only -
yeh that was my thought too.
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I saw my first R33 with a HID light kit the other day. He was driving behind me following a fellow skyliner as you do but the lights were totally pissing me off. So much glare. From the little ive read here I get the impression that r33's are very bad for installing HID's and your lights would be blinding a lot of road users. Forget HID and stick to normal bulbs. Do a search on the forums to find out what globes your R33 takes and there will be plenty of options.
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This is close enough. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5618&hl=hid You need 6 x t1.25 globes for the climate control. And a set of T10's for the dash cluster if its r32
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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=172061&hl=
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Remove the oil filter from your engine, screw this sandwich plate onto the engine and then put the filter back on. Gives you 2 or 3 places to put in sensors. Im oil temp and oil pressure guages off mine
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Oil Filter Sandwich Plate - Nissan & Toyota Price: $29.95 justjap.com
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Fitting T1.25 Led Replacement Globes To R32 A/c
hazerb30 replied to 666DAN's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
the exciting part about it is that i can actually SEE the controls now. Before this i was fumbling around in the dark pressing all the buttons. Colour does match the dash cluster now -
Gtr Or Gts4 Shocks And Springs (nismo)
hazerb30 replied to GunmetaL's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
throw some pics my way as well -
Fitting T1.25 Led Replacement Globes To R32 A/c
hazerb30 replied to 666DAN's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Hey Dan would you know if these are the globes needed for the other switches on the dash around the cluster ? Like wipers controls and demister switch light and so on ? -
Fitting T1.25 Led Replacement Globes To R32 A/c
hazerb30 replied to 666DAN's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Ok, just did mine last night. You need patience to do this.. it kinda gay for something that should be easy.. how many people does it take to change a light globe kind of thing. So.. I pulled out the A/C unit. Took the front cover off it and Unscrewed the circuit board. Spent a few mins figuring out how to get the circuit board out ( you do need to get it out). Take 666dans advice here and use a screw driver and push on the back of the old globes and the circuit board pushes out with them. so.. i put em all out and put the LED ones in (either use your thumbnail or a large flat blade screwdriver to push and turn them in) Went back to the car with it in pieces still and tried it out. Shit.. i was unlucky with the 50/50 chance and got them all the wrong way. Pulled it out and turned all the LED's around the other way. Test again.. they all lit up. Hey they are really bright! So thats kool. Now to get the cover back on. It wont fit with clear plastic diffusers in place so i took them out and tried it out in the car again. Wow that looks totally shit.. can barely see most of the lights and one is stoopidly bright. This is the point i went inside and read this tutorial properly. hmmm... seems that people had sucess with moving the LED's so they point in certain directions.. tried this and it looked better but still crap. Well, looks like ill have to modify the diffuser. If you try and keep the diffusers in there with the LED's it will just squash them and pop them out of the socket. you DO need to make more space for them. Now i thought i would be a smarty and file the end of each LED down using sandpaper and that would give them enough room so sit in there. It would also disperse the light better. Nope.. it was a lot closer but still not enough room. Used a drill and VERY VERY carefully drilled down until i was just touching the 'V'. This will only make sense once you look at the diffuser closely. Tried it again. all good. Final results.. it works and i can see the buttons now. Its not very bright though but thats a good thing. If i could find the stock globes i would buy them to save most of this hassle but it does look ok -
FEAR Combat. Its free! Fastest paced online shooter there is.
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Should I Keep An 89' R32 Gtr?
hazerb30 replied to TiagonR32GTR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
My 89 shitter has got service history every year since 50'000kms... so yeh. legit Km's. It may all be in jap and i cant read a word of it but at least i know its 130k So yeh.. your wrong. im sure im not the only one -
Should I Keep An 89' R32 Gtr?
hazerb30 replied to TiagonR32GTR's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Im in the same boat. Ive got a r32 gtr with about 130'000 kms and i have stressed about the cost of rebuilds and whatever. But really, its been 1.5 years now and its been the most reliable car ive owned. Sure some stuff needs attention like the CV boots and other stuff that gets old but mechanically its been great and never left me on the side of the road like the r31 i had. If like me you want to be sure about things.. id do the following. Get some redline oil in the gearbox and change all fluids, use decent engine oil. Compression test. Change the turbos if you really want to be sure they are in good nick. Clean injectors New fuel pump Install a reliable oil pressure guage Get your Air/fuel mixtures checked on a dyno And i too am a believer that any RB engine is good for over 300'000 if taken care of. Should you keep it? sure! r32 gtr is such a good bit of kit. preventative maintenance can save you the big bucks. -
Stuff Near Driver Side Seat Belt
hazerb30 replied to hazerb30's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Excellent thank you. Very interesting.. I wonder if my seat belt locks up again if i short out those 2 pins it may release without pulling the side trim off again. I did notice that my seat belt plug under the seat was disconnected but ive now plugged that back in as well. Thanks mate. Michael PS: still wanting to find out the purpose of that computer if anyone knows...