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About jimnastic

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    95 R33 GT-R

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  1. It's the "duracon" plastic gear knob, so it's like a really hard plastic I'm not sure how to tell the difference, it was on the car when I bought it. If it is fake, then it seems to be good quality
  2. $150 - Standard RB26 injectors
  3. $30 - Nismo gear knob $250 - Nismo air flow meters
  4. Moving sale - R33 GTR Parts Moving out of Sydney soon, and the less stuff I have to pack into the GTR, the better. Located in Riverstone NSW, but we're moving to Canberra so I can bring stuff down there. I'll be adding more stuff if I find anything else in the garage $350 - Nismo front pipe. Has had flex pipe replaced $250 - X Force split dumps. Not 100% sure if these are for R32 or R33 as I never ended up putting them on the car, they appear to be for an R33 based on the thread size $100 - Carbon fibre cooling panel $30 - BCPR6ES spark plugs. Gapped to 0.9, used for 15km before being changed by the tuner
  5. I've been focusing my attention recently on tidying up the engine bay. There's no way I'll ever be able to get it as clean as I want it, but every little bit counts While I was in there scrubbing away at everything, I also hit a few bits with some black paint The bonnet stand These mounting brackets The top of the headlights, and the coolant and washer bottles. I actually have new replacement bottles on the way, but I just wanted to see what they look like black I also got some pictures of a few miscellaneous bits that I hadn't covered previously The interior. The shifter and handbrake boots looked better when they were new, but I don't like how they've faded. They're on the to do list I've posted about the wideband before, but I didn't get a picture of the data IO cables, which are run through where the little glass window was in the ash tray The drivers side window switch wasn't quite working properly, which I think is a common thing on the R33s. With a little bit of fabrication work, I swapped the broken window buttons out for buttons from a Hilux, which seem to feel a lot sturdier This is just a close up of where I've tucked the injector ballast and boost solenoid plugs back in to the fuse box. Makes this whole area look a lot neater than just leaving the unused plugs hanging out This is the Nismo dash I bought and fixed, with the aftermarket immobiliser LED connected to the A-LSD light. Nice and factory looking And finally, I haven't really put up any decent pictures of the car itself, so here's one from the weekend
  6. Been a bit busy recently so I've fallen behind with the updates, but this is pretty close to where it's at now So far, I've just used what limited knowledge I have of tuning to just keep it running nice and safe, but now that I've got all the performance related bits that I want, it was time for a proper tune. Had the car booked in at Unigroup, where it made 265awkw @ 18psi, not a bad result While it could have made a bit more power, it was being held back by the clutch beginning to slip (an Exedy NSK-7172 OEM replacement, changed a few years ago), and some weakness in the ignition system was starting to show. So at this stage, I'm considering replacing the clutch with a Nismo Coppermix twin plate, and possibly an upgrade to LS2 coils, but neither of these will be happening for a while as I'm quite happy with the power it's making now. I'm happy to hear any suggestions or recommendations if anyone is following along Since a post without pictures is kind of boring, here's a picture of the engine bay not long after I bought it, and one from a bit more recently (still not current though, will get some new pics soon)
  7. Yeah it seems like it'll keep going forever, I hope I'm right! It's had a pretty easy life while I've had it, only occasionally pushed hard on a nice curvy back road here and there
  8. A few updates from earlier this month: After putting up with a crappy battery for quite a few years, I finally replaced it with a nice new Optima yellow top (D51R-T1). I can now leave the car for more than a couple of days, and it will still start, amazing! Next up, changed my old beaten up front pipe for a new Blitz item, with 70mm inlets to 80mm outlet And just as exciting as the shiny new front pipe, some shiny new brake line clips. These are the same part as clips for a S14 (46289-15U10) And last on the list, made a slight modification to the AFR gauge. The LED display was a bit too bright for my liking, so I bought some small sample pieces of window tint and applied that to the clear plastic over the front of the gauge. When the gauge is off, it looks completely black, nice and stealthy
  9. February 2017 - I'd being keeping an eye out for a while for a Nismo 320km gauge cluster, but the only ones I could ever find for a reasonable price were the white version, and I much prefer the black. I found one on Yahoo Auctions for a really good price because of a dead tacho, so I grabbed that, did a bit of electrical tinkering, and now it's working perfectly. Since I don't have an Active LSD, I wired up the warning light to the alarm LED, which fits in nicely with my 'keep everything looking stock' theme. I also modified the gear shift surround to mount the wideband gauge where the cigarette lighter was, as it never gets used. I got a scrap piece of plastic and cut a hole in it to fit the gauge, then used epoxy to stick it on, and drilled some small holes to screw the gauge on. It looks rough as, but it's surprisingly strong, it won't be falling apart any time soon
  10. January 2017 - Since moving to Sydney (don't know if I mentioned that?), the horn has been getting quite a workout. With only one of the horns working, I decided to upgrade to a set of Hella Supertones. Wanting to keep the engine bay looking neat, I pulled the fuse box out and upgraded the factory wiring, rather than using the supplied relay. I was unsure about having two bright red horns behind the grill, but they're not actually too visible
  11. November 2016 - When I did the timing belt a few years ago, I didn't do the water pump for some reason, so you can imagine my surprise when it started leaking. So I stripped the front of the engine down and replaced: -Water pump (21010-24U27) -Timing belt (13028-5L327) -Aux belts (?) -Idler & tensioner bearings (?) -Cam seals (13042-16V00 x 2) -Crank seal (13510-10Y10) -CAS seal (13568-05U00) While on the subject, I got the A/C tensioner pulley bearing replaced a few years ago, and the bearing place told me it's a 6301 (size? part #?) bearing, which cost me a total of maybe $5 to replace, compared to $100+ for a new pulley Also while everything was off, I painted the engine covers as well. I used VHT metallic engine paint, which uses a silver metallic base coat, and then a red top coat. It came out pretty well, but if I were to do it again, I'd do more layers of red, or just get them powder coated I One more thing, I found that the rubber bonnet stops can be replaced with ones from a Nissan Patrol. I don't have a picture of them installed, but the part number is 90878-2L700
  12. I found a picture from when I had the quarter panel off to do the wiring. I changed the headlight bolts hidden in the front bar to wing bolts at some stage, so when I need to take the headlights out, I can just remove the front indicators and stick my arm the bar and undo them by hand. Now I can have both headlights out in about 5 minutes
  13. It still works while the face plate is down. I find that the stock gauge is sort of good enough most of the time, and I only need to look at the controller if I want a more specific number, so I usually leave the face plate up When I had the turbos out, I mounted the HKS solenoid under the air box. I extended the wires and ran them with all the stock wiring under the rail in front of the radiator, and through the quarter panel. I made a point of hiding everything as much as possible, so there's no hint that anything has been modified
  14. October 2016 - I suspected the injectors may not be quite as good as they were 170000km and 21 years ago, so let's upgrade them too. Got a set of Bosch EV14 1000cc injectors and a ballast delete plug from NZEFI. This was an easy swap as they fit into the stock rail and wiring harness, then I just punched the right settings into the ECU, did some data logging and fine tuning, and it's all good. Idle was noticably improved, and the car felt a lot smoother to drive around A bonus to doing this was that I could now completely remove the bracket that the ballast and the stock boost solenoid are attached too, and there was just enough room to tuck the delete plug under the fuse box. Two other new additions are a hard pipe kit, as during the turbo install I found one of the rubber pipes was starting to split, and I also found some adhesive backed foam to go on the air box snorkel