puckish

R34 I hear you on that one mate. Sad thing is in my case I will be travelling a lot and in and out of Japan for work and don't have a reason to buy go fast bits, let alone a reason for a car that's not going to be driven. Ironic innit:( I'll pass the word around at work.

Yeah you'll need a multimeter. Basically this is just a test for something thats caught me out more than once in Nissans. Set the multimeter to ohms and place the probes accross the fuse ( which you've removed) and if the value is infinite then it's stuffed.

Right had this before. You've got a short. ( Don't say err derr yet) Measure the fuses related to the tail lights and interior and boot lights. You may find that they don't look blown but are open circuit. These are found under the dash on the drivers side as blade type fuses. Let me know how it goes there are a few other things that will need to be checked.

Hey hang on a sec if it's a stock WRX a Soarer will give her a good run for the money... No I am not joking and I have witnesses.

Doh! Know how ya feelin. Hope no one got hurt.

Thanks for the info 25GTT. I asked cos I'll prob go in the evening with mates.

Is it on during the evening? I can't find any info about times prices etc other than being told it's at Belmont Park?

Don't use this stuff man. Gets in ya veins and melts 'em inside out! Go the cut and polish (or Steves stuff)... ain't got nasties in it like glass melting hydroflouric acid.

Everytime I went to JapWreck to ask for parts they looked at me kinda funny when I said R33 and told me to look elsewhere. That was a year or so ago but since then they have had a bit of an ad on racescar claiming they now do Jap import bits... So who knows nowadays. They do have good service so give em a call before you go to find out. Your best bet is to look on Parts Locator on the web or ask for the mag at a big newsagents. All parts listed including jap imports... Saved me and fellow mates a bundle.

I have a feeling it is just cam follower lash adjustments. These Are suppose to be adjusted every so often ( I think 50,000KMs) Pretty straight forward for a mech. to do at your next service or get the RB20 manual and follow the instructions. If it's a dirty lifter (I didn't think that the RB20 had these?) a engine oil clean should fix it for a lot less. I plan to take the old Ulsar in to Carbon tune for this prob soon. Let you know if they are any good. Also drop Megs a line at the aussie forum ... he's pretty cluey on the old RB20's.

__________Quote_______________________________ I shall say again. THIS HAS ALREADY BEEN DONE AND IT DIDN"T DAMN WELL WORK... wouldn't you think I'd LOVE to save that amount of money if I could?? ______________________________________________ Then the sycros are stuffed.. But i changed my G/B oil twice to fix it cos the amount of metal i found in the box was crazy. first time acted as a flush....

Troy dude don't metion her age she'll kill ya.... Anyway Kyles happy birthday you don't look ......

NO the series one the inside ones should be on only during high beam. I checked the wiring and this was the way it was suppose to be.

This is way interesting Joel. Cos it relates to playing around with cam timing using adjustable gears, and how much you can get away with before piston finds valve:( Does anyone know the number of degrees for each tooth? BTW Croat ... Super Glory Super Glory ... sorry couldn't help it.....

Could be lots of other things as well. I your worried speak to Turbo Techincs on GE Highway. They explained to me that what you described can happen, when I asked about my Soarer once.

Would someone please change the freaking gearbox oil in this womans car. Goddamn. You'll find that it will probably save you $1K. Oh and add a friction modifier. I use Uniglyde with great results. 3rd to 4th shift problems as you described disappeared!

From expirence a pod filter makes the turbo feel as if it's spooling up quicker and I have noticed some fuel economy improvements. Cold air induction does work.

Some guy in a different thread is looking for a GTS I mentioned your name so you might get a response. Firstly speak to the RTA techincal branch in Perth on the phone. They are VERY GOOD. If need be an Engineer. It's not a hugh issue but will help with licencing. Get the half cut and do the BRAKES on the gts. Plus you get a spare bonnet and guards etc and much needed gearbox. Megs may be right on the diff.. I'm not sure. Do a HP clutch.. your gunna need it with the drag season around the corner. You can sell the engine to a Commdore guy with the ECU to pay for things. Even the NA gearbox will be worth something to help pay for all this. Plus the lights and stuff after someone has a prang....... It is worth while as a conversion and has merits.

Easy Non foam pod Air filter, cat and exhaust made no difference unless it's a new cat, plugs work and if you've got the bucks lean the mixture out. There's a 30% power gain from the Power FC but all it does is lean the mixture out. This can be done with fuel controllers at a cheaper price. I wouldn't waste my money on headers and stuff the performance gain is too little for the out lay. Also speak to skyliner33wa as he's trying to sell his and the thing looks got and has some nice mods.

Sorry to hear of ya woes. To get the wheel nut off they take a rattle gun with a socket that just grips the sides. There's a fair bit of language spoken that's not English so don't have ya Mum around.. but they do come off.

There are two hoses coming from the back of the rocker covers. One connects to the other. Disconnect the hose on the left ( from facing the front of the engine) and look for oil residue in the pipe. Start her up ( she may run rough) and look for oil leaking out , give her a few quick short sharp rev's. This is blow by. The worse it is the more expensive it is to fix. Some is normal. If your still unsure see a mech.

Lets face some facts here. If fuel hits $1.80 Australia is screwed. Everything we do involves covering large distances and with virtually no public transport in cities such as Perth the country comes to a grinding holt. And then there's the whole arguement about trucking costs! I think once this crap is over in the Mid East unleaded will hit the high 80's per litre us non Queenslanders are used to. Another thing I noticed in Europe is Fuel Cell cars are cool and just as fast as conventional petrol cars.

Hey Kris, Sorry to hear you had so much trouble selling your car. I have been there so I know what it is like. Instead of getting a re spray in black why not spend the money getting a half cut and doing the conversion. Think about it a late GTSt is $22K in VERY good nick and a half cut should be around $3- $3.5K if you do it yourself. Your GTS is worth maybe $17.5K so your still in front ! Hell if you plan to keep the thing long term do the paint as well. Try speaking to Nick Ranelli, we used to work with him. He should know all the good places for a re spray. Ilija.

Every R33 I have driven has that rattle sound. God only knows what it is but it sure as hell aint the wheel bearings. And for the record I have driven six.

Okay this is the go as it was explained to me many a time. The R32 GTR was released locally. Hence it's insurance is cheaper than the GTS. Why ? Cos at the time you couldn't get parts locally from Nissan for it. Now that Nissan do carry R33 parts I think things are a changing. The people on the phone generally don't know the difference beteewn a Hyundai Excel and a R33. All they see is that it is not listed on the computer and tell you to nicely rack off. I have also been explianed why it is extremely difficult to get non bank finace on an import but that could get me into trouble for telling... Oh and I found this info out through the RAC and GE Auto and Fleet 'cos we did the outsourcing IT work for them and I asked some managers.