Abo Bob

There's nothing wrong with those temps. If you are on the track and it gets to 130 come off. If it gets anywhere near that on the street there is something wrong.

I suspect that they will make the same power going by the rule that 0.5 drop in CR requires 0.2 bar more boost to acheive the same power. (I think I have that right) Are you using the same turbo on both these engines? Cos you probably wouldn't given the choice.

Bed them in properly. A number of people have put details instructions in english you can understand on here somewhere. I suggest you don't bed them in with normal driving or by being a wuss. Put it this way, smoke when bedding in is not bad. (later it is)

You don't need to take the guard off. You pull the rear inner plastic wheel arch panel. You can get it off easier if you turn the wheels to the right full lock then pull out the plastic clips and get the inner panel out. My side skirts also has two screws at the front that has to be taken out to release it. Once out you will be able to see it all. I haven't explained myself very well so here is a couple of pics.

Meaning auto has viscous LSD.

Sweet looker. Cars not bad either. Got a pic of the boot?

No worries. I'm sure it doesn't hurt at all. I wonder what an electric water pump would cost and how hard it would be to install.

Pretty much yes but I have an auto and he has a manual. Also my comrpession ratio is 8.75:1 and his is 9:1.

I had 228rwkw without cams then rebuilt the engine with slightly lower compression ratio and put the cams in. Same boost got me 255rwkw. That's 27rwkw gain from cams and fresh engine.

The reason I asked is that there is no point in running your fan after the engine has shut down because the coolant isn't circulating - unless you have an eleectric water pump that also runs after the engine is shut down.

Yes you will benefit. I got about 25rwkw from the 260/260 degree poncams.

Listen to Bass Junky.

It's looking like a big one!

I'd say so. There's not like to be any sort of security.

Don't do that. They don't help R34's. It's been tested and proven.

Don't bother with cams unless/until you are upgrading the turbo. The Tomei Poncam type B 260/260 are the best for my money although I don't know anyone with an R34 and the Type A. Put it this way, they don't destroy your idle or reduce driveability much so why not go as big as possible? They are still street cams when it comes down to it, Tomei make the Procams for more full on situations. I have 255 rwkw with a GCG highflow at 0.9 bar and these cams. I don't think the cam gears are worth getting although if you want you can sacrifice some idle smoothness for early boost with stock turbo. I think this would equate to top end losses with bigger turbo.

Have you got an electric water pump?

Get us the part number from the plate in the engine bay. The R33 GTST has RE4R01A.

Maybe look at one with a rebuilt engine and a bit of work done to it. At least then you know it has something over a similar aged GTR with no rebuild.

Well actually a single 16" will pull more air than 2 x 12" fans.

Shit. I use it all the time on my car...

Sounds like you sprayed too much on. Do you think?

I blew mine the day I got it up to 228rwkw. It was on the way out before that at 189rwkw though. Basically it's heat that kills them. I went to the track a lot and this would no doubt have contributed greatly to my transmission blowing. You can benefit from my mistake by installing a transmission temperature gauge. Just get an engine oil temp gauge and use that. Keep it under 130. Also the valvebody upgrade from MV Automatics (check the group buy thread) will make it run cooler as well. Satanic has just upgraded his turbo and elushun has a bit of power too and his auto still goes. Mine has been fully rebuilt and I'm told will handle 300+rwkw. I currently put 255rwkw through it and have no heat issues at all even with the stock trans cooler.

Not trying to annoy you or anything but the series 2 R33 RB25 head and the NEO RB25 head are vastly different. The former having hydraulic lifters and the latter solid for example. The cams should fit one OR the other, not both. I'm pretty sure you have the R33 series 2 RB25 cams there mate because the R34 ones are either 252 or 260 degrees in duration but yours are 256. Lift is different too.

GT -RB20DE 25GT-X FOUR - RB25DE 25GT FOUR - RB25DE are all 4wd.