Run-It-Hard

Now on Ebay, sick of the time wasters. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-RB25-RB30-package-RB25-30-ARP-drift-oil-drain-turbo-rebuild-engine-/221126361398?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337c288136

PM's replied.

PM's replied

PM's replied

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TTT

$900 take it away!

NO LONGER FOR SALE!

No thermostat with this kit.

I don't have a R34, not swapping just want cold hard cash. Cheers.

Pic of the seat Another pic of the rails includes leg cushion (not pictured)

I've got a Recaro SR-Zero (same as SR3) with genuine Recaro drivers side rail to suit all R32/R33/Stagea's/R34 GTR and Silvias with a mod to one of the mounting points. The leather has seen better days around the side and leg bolsters. The PO stored something ontop of it (I know right!) and it left the mark you see in the third picture. Everything else is top notch, structually perfect. I'm after $600 ono or I will swap for a R32 GTR seat + cash my way (seat must be in good nick, no rips etc). Located in Liverpool region, NSW. Will ship at buyers expense, I estimate $100 for shipping. Cheers, Adam.

bump!

$100, take them away!

for reference, you'll need one of these fittings.

Just found this in the garage, no use for it. Oil cooler kit with relocation, looks like a Just Jap type. Came off my old R33 when I bought it. one of the fittings on the oil cooler have snapped Wouldn't be too hard to fix. New fitting $10 and get the old piece out of the relocation block. $220 pick up, $250 shipped. ONO. Located in Liverpool region. Cheers, Adam.

open to offers.

hullo?

hullo?

Yeah that and a good seat can make all the difference! I LOVE THEM! It's incredible how much of a difference they've made.

TURBO TALK - VIEW ON THE BLOG When I started the re-build on the Stagea, I was torn whether to do everything at the same time, or hold off on things like bigger injectors, turbo and ECU. If I was to postpone power mods, I’d probably spend the money elsewhere. So hey, why not! The ultimate goal is to keep the engine bay looking like it came from the Nissan factory, or as close to it as possible. So things like a return flow intercooler and partial airbox will be present. One of the biggest challenges will be hiding the large frame Holset HX35 turbocharger. I’m confident with some extra shielding this will be achievable. You’re probably wondering, if I wanted a standard looking bay, why wouldn’t I just go high-flow? Well, for what these Holset turbos go for (I picked this up for $250), and how successful they are in the US and even some Skylines here in Australia, I’m really keen to see how it’ll go on my RB25. These Holset’s are designed for diesel engines that run a stack of boost, so the wastegate isn’t really suitable for petrol engines without modifications. I’ve used it as an excuse to get a Turbosmart comp gate. Bitches love gate.. A downfall with the Stagea is the ECU. The Stagea has a unique wiring harness which makes having an aftermarket computer a difficult exercise, and unfortunately they aren’t flashable (i.e Nistune). So many people settle for a piggy back … the Greddy Emanage is a popular choice. Though the whizz that Anthony is, will be merging the R33 ECU harness with my Stagea’s harness. That way we can run the Haltech E11 computer out of my Skyline. The Greddy Profec B boost controller will also be making its way from my Skyline to the Stagea. I’ve sourced some 550CC denso injectors to take care of delivering fuel to the engine, along with a Walbro fuel pump. I’ll be sticking to petrol this time around due to practicality. Heres the remainder of parts destined to go into the Stagea in a few weeks time. There are things like the intercooler, muffler, transmission mount, oil cooler setup, suspension arms, manual conversion parts, lubricants among other things, waiting patiently to be installed. The C34 goes into the Dahtone Racing workshop this Thursday. Exciting times ahead!

TURBO TALK - VIEW ON THE BLOG When I started the re-build on the Stagea, I was torn whether to do everything at the same time, or hold off on things like bigger injectors, turbo and ECU. If I was to postpone power mods, I’d probably spend the money elsewhere. So hey, why not! The ultimate goal is to keep the engine bay looking like it came from the Nissan factory, or as close to it as possible. So things like a return flow intercooler and partial airbox will be present. One of the biggest challenges will be hiding the large frame Holset HX35 turbocharger. I’m confident with some extra shielding this will be achievable. You’re probably wondering, if I wanted a standard looking bay, why wouldn’t I just go high-flow? Well, for what these Holset turbos go for (I picked this up for $250), and how successful they are in the US and even some Skylines here in Australia, I’m really keen to see how it’ll go on my RB25. These Holset’s are designed for diesel engines that run a stack of boost, so the wastegate isn’t really suitable for petrol engines without modifications. I’ve used it as an excuse to get a Turbosmart comp gate. Bitches love gate.. A downfall with the Stagea is the ECU. The Stagea has a unique wiring harness which makes having an aftermarket computer a difficult exercise, and unfortunately they aren’t flashable (i.e Nistune). So many people settle for a piggy back … the Greddy Emanage is a popular choice. Though the whizz that Anthony is, will be merging the R33 ECU harness with my Stagea’s harness. That way we can run the Haltech E11 computer out of my Skyline. The Greddy Profec B boost controller will also be making its way from my Skyline to the Stagea. I’ve sourced some 550CC denso injectors to take care of delivering fuel to the engine, along with a Walbro fuel pump. I’ll be sticking to petrol this time around due to practicality. Heres the remainder of parts destined to go into the Stagea in a few weeks time. There are things like the intercooler, muffler, transmission mount, oil cooler setup, suspension arms, manual conversion parts, lubricants among other things, waiting patiently to be installed. The C34 goes into the Dahtone Racing workshop this Thursday. Exciting times ahead!

REDUCING THE ROLL - VIEW ON THE BLOG ike many things, swaybars are an interesting piece on the Stagea. The front end shares the same design from the R33 GTR, however the rear end is a completely different story. Some have tried to fit GTR bars on the rear but due to the widened subframe (Auto only), most have not been successful. Now that my Stagea has a S14 rear subframe I could theoretically run a Silvia or GTR item. But I decided I will go with what has been tried and tested from fellow Stagea owners. Alright so the proven formula is a 22mm soild swaybar up front, and a 24mm solid swaybar in the rear end. Reports state that body roll is nearly diminished, among other things. Sounds good! Let’s check out what the standard swaybar thickness’ are. The front is 22mm, just like the new item. However it is a hollow piece. There isn’t such a dramatic change here. The rear is 20mm thick, and is also hollow. So going to a 24mm solid bar is a big difference. There is a lot of weight in the Stagea’s rear end, and the general consensus is that Nissan put an undersized swaybar in. That big boaty feeling when turning corners is generally from this little guy being too thin. The reason for the bigger bar at the back is because the Stagea has a tendency to understeer (in 4WD mode), this helps balance it out. It’ll be interesting to see how it goes on my Stag (run in RWD), time will tell. Installation is easy as, with only four bolts holding each swaybar to the chassis, and one on each endlink. One thing that did start to worry me though, is when I went to fit the rear swaybar the supplied endlink wouldn’t seat correctly to the LCA. But I managed to get it fitting well by using the “hardest” setting. So did these make a difference … were they worth the money? You’re damn right they were! Even driving around like a sane person, you notice a lot of the body roll has vanished. I used to troll my passengers by turning the wheel viciously left to right. The car would shake around like a tinnie in rough waters … but still go straight. If I were to do that now well I’d probably find myself in a tree, the steering response has increased 10-fold. I dare say it almost feels like I’m driving a R33 now. It’s excellent! So I can imagine with the tein super wagon coilovers installed, it’ll have even less bodyroll. I’m all smiles! The Whiteline part number for the following bars are: •BNF27Z – 22mm front adjustable sway bar •BNR11XXZ – 24mm rear adjustable sway bar If you’ve ever thought about getting some sway bars for your Stag, do it .. do it now!

REDUCING THE ROLL - VIEW ON THE BLOG ike many things, swaybars are an interesting piece on the Stagea. The front end shares the same design from the R33 GTR, however the rear end is a completely different story. Some have tried to fit GTR bars on the rear but due to the widened subframe (Auto only), most have not been successful. Now that my Stagea has a S14 rear subframe I could theoretically run a Silvia or GTR item. But I decided I will go with what has been tried and tested from fellow Stagea owners. Alright so the proven formula is a 22mm soild swaybar up front, and a 24mm solid swaybar in the rear end. Reports state that body roll is nearly diminished, among other things. Sounds good! Let’s check out what the standard swaybar thickness’ are. The front is 22mm, just like the new item. However it is a hollow piece. There isn’t such a dramatic change here. The rear is 20mm thick, and is also hollow. So going to a 24mm solid bar is a big difference. There is a lot of weight in the Stagea’s rear end, and the general consensus is that Nissan put an undersized swaybar in. That big boaty feeling when turning corners is generally from this little guy being too thin. The reason for the bigger bar at the back is because the Stagea has a tendency to understeer (in 4WD mode), this helps balance it out. It’ll be interesting to see how it goes on my Stag (run in RWD), time will tell. Installation is easy as, with only four bolts holding each swaybar to the chassis, and one on each endlink. One thing that did start to worry me though, is when I went to fit the rear swaybar the supplied endlink wouldn’t seat correctly to the LCA. But I managed to get it fitting well by using the “hardest” setting. So did these make a difference … were they worth the money? You’re damn right they were! Even driving around like a sane person, you notice a lot of the body roll has vanished. I used to troll my passengers by turning the wheel viciously left to right. The car would shake around like a tinnie in rough waters … but still go straight. If I were to do that now well I’d probably find myself in a tree, the steering response has increased 10-fold. I dare say it almost feels like I’m driving a R33 now. It’s excellent! So I can imagine with the tein super wagon coilovers installed, it’ll have even less bodyroll. I’m all smiles! The Whiteline part number for the following bars are: •BNF27Z – 22mm front adjustable sway bar •BNR11XXZ – 24mm rear adjustable sway bar If you’ve ever thought about getting some sway bars for your Stag, do it .. do it now!

seats sold!