Luke HCR32

Recently followed the DIY thread on AAC cleaning here on my RB20DET R32: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/ When I plugged the AAC solenoid back in the revs jumped to 1800 and refused to come down no matter what I did. I tested the solenoid by unscrewing it from the AAC valve housing and plugging it in and found that even though the engine was warm and nothing was putting load on it the solenoid arm was stuck outward (i.e. opening the diaphragm allowing air flow). Is this a computer issue, a fuse or a case of needing a new solenoid? I thought it would be unlikely for the solenoid to stick in the out position if it was stuffed, figured it would do nothing at all. Would my only choice be to go brand new genuine Nissan or would a second hand RB30 unit fit?

I did the clean yesterday, ever since my car idles normally without the AAC plugged in but jumps to 1800 once it is plugged in. I tested it by running the car without the solenoid bolted to the valve housing and noticed that even though the car was warm the solenoid would extend fully as soon as I plugged it in, thereby allowing a shitload more air through. Fuse? Computer? f**ked solenoid?

140,000 kms, if that's the case what can I do to help it?

Just paid $2k for R33 RB25 turbo custom machined with Garrett 2871 core and line kit.

Currently in the process of my second turbo swap in 6 months. My car has always used oil slowly and during the first turbo swap it seemed that it must be the compressor housing of the turbo leaking oil into the intake (fair bit of oil in intake piping from turbo onwards, little evidence of oil from cam cover breather to intake). The car continued to use oil at the same rate with another factory RB20 turbo, now in the process of swapping for a high flowed 25 turbo it seems less apparent that the compressor housing has been leaking (oil obvious from the cam cover breather, less oil in intake piping overall, little to no oil in compressor housing) The car uses bugger all oil in highway driving but plenty in hills thrashing, blows black smoke under heavy acceleration but not when I come off the throttle. Planning to do a compression test in the next few days, is a leak down test also necessary? Cam cover gasket has weeped intermittently even after being replaced but never enough to drop oil in my driveway. I'm running Penrite HPR10 15W-50. Need to get this sorted as I'm pushing for 220 rwkW+ with the new turbo. Another thread suggested cleaning PCV but didn't say how to do so...

I'm currently in the middle of a turbo swap and am upgrading my injectors at the same time. I've purchased second hand cleaned/tested Denso 550s, they have the same impedance as the stock injectors. I've already consulted this thread while attempting to get my stock injectors out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/140970-injectors-how-to-removereplaceupgrade/ However it is for the R33, obviously having side feed injectors and a different arrangements of hoses etc, all my searching has only produced guides on changing injectors in an RB26 or wiring GT-R injectors in a GTS-T. My main problem is I cannot crack the allen bolts on my throttle body regardless of how much force I apply, seems silly to use allen bolts instead of hex bolts in such an important spot. Is it essential to remove the throttle body? I've already removed and cleaned the AAC and all piping has already been removed due to the turbo swap. Also I did not relieve the fuel pressure before I started work on the car, will this be a problem? Should I pull the fuse and run the car dry even though I currently have no exhaust manifold on the car? I would have to re-install the AAC to do so wouldn't I?

Center console - SOLD

Is there anything wrong with running a Laurel computer?

What cable do I need to hook Nistune up to software though?

Planning to try and run Nistune on current setup tomorrow, as long as it runs I'm ok to granny to dyno?

My stock ECU: Big letters: BH Second Line: 23710 11U00 Third Line: MEC-R212 B 2203 Nistune ECU: Big letters: 15 Second Line: 23710 94L10 Third Line: MEC-R113 B 9X19 My spare stock ECU: Big letters: BJ Second Line: 23710 11U10 Third Line: MEC-R213 B 2108 What is throwing me is that my two stock ECU's are so similar and the Nistune I've acquired is not. All ECU's look identical except for slight variations in the mounting brackets.

The computers look physically the same and have the same looms just the stickers that threw me.

Haven't tested compression, do have a mate with a compression tester though, I'm already burning oil but it seems to be coming through the compressor housing seal on the turbo - one of the reasons i got my act together on a turbo swap. Not planning to throw too much boost around, regardless of how much power it makes I'll be setting the boost for about 190-200kw for street use.

Rear window trims also gone, rear 'door' cards (coupe) still available.

I've slowly been gathering parts to upgrade the power output of my '92 R32 GTS-T and am about to embark on putting it all together. So far I have: -RB25 turbo rebuilt with Garrett 2871 core (brand new) plus line kit -550cc denso injectors (cleaned and flow tested) -Z32 AFM (Bosch) -New dump/front pipe -Manifold gasket and stud kit Pre-existing power mods include 600x300 front mount, 3 inch exhaust, gutted cat, superspark coil packs, boxed pod filter, home job cold air intake, turbotech manual boost controller, bosch in tank fuel pump (040?) - 143.5 rwkw @ 10-11 psi My mate has offered me a second hand Nistune computer however he is unsure of what it has been mapped to run as it came with a track car he purchased but never got going First question: I've been told that a nistune computer will not run a Z32 AFM unless it has already been mapped to do so, this is an issue as I need to be able to limp the car to my tuner, the second hand computer may have been running an AFM with a blue label branded JECS but I'm not sure. Is my only option to change the AFM once I get to the dyno? Second question: The second hand Nistune has the same sticker as my stock computer but none of the serial numbers/ codes are the same (big number on mates computer is 15, mine says BH) I've been told there is dozens of different RB20 computers, is there a way i can make sure it's not for an RB25? Should I check to see if it runs with the current setup before I swap my turbo? Third question: Have I overlooked anything in this build? The guy who built my turbo reckons it will be good for 240rwkw, I'll be happy with 200 as long as it's responsive. Mate was running pretty much the same setup, except GT-R injectors and HKS GT-RS turbo, in an R31 drift car and made 237 rwkw @ 20 odd pound

Just confirming I have two RB20 factory turbos, both with elbows and oil drains, only have one waste gate actuator and one factory dump pipe between them.

Price Drop: GT-R steering wheel with horn button $200 now $180

Nah sorry, I wouldn't mind some of that trim myself

Headlights gone, good to see some stuff shifting.

Glovebox and complete steering wheel still available, front door cards sold today, very negotiable on the rest of the set. Price drop: Door cards - Make an offer Seats - $320 (Set) Glovebox - $30 Centre Console - $40 Drivers side under dash panel - $25 Boot Carpet - $25 Blitz turbo timer - $50

Glovebox possibly sold, pending payment.

Yeah got them working now just by stretching the springs, might try and source a better complete dash surround anyway.

Will also be selling stock injectors and air flow meter, pictures pending removal from car.

Is that something I can fix myself or do I need another one? It randomly started working again but then stopped the next time I turned the car on.

After a cheap RB25 turbo to rebuild, only worried about the housings, will pay up to 150 including postage. Adelaide 5032 0401 258 114