Luke HCR32

The left headlight on my r32 GTS-t has stopped working, the high beam also does not work except when I pull the stick forward for 'pass' mode (this confuses me as the high beam seems to run on the same circuit either way). I've checked every bulb and the L/H and R/H fuses in the engine bay fuse box with no success, even tried plugging in a different headlight unit with no change. Could the larger headlight fuse in the engine bay be causing the problem, is there another fuse I've overlooked or do I have a short/break in my wiring? Does anyone know if the wiring is split into L/H and R/H from the switch or does it split at the fuse box? Cheers, Luke

Need to do a turbo swap on the RB20 in my 92 R32 Gts-t pretty soon as the amount of oil it is leaking into the intake is becoming unmanagable. I wasn't planning on doing a real serious upgrade this soon but I have a few dollars to throw at it and figured I may as well push for a 180-200 rwkw build as I'm starting to grow out of the current engine performance and have now gone through 2 stock turbos. The car was recently dynoed at 143.5 rwkw @ 11 psi with a turbotech controller, bosch 040, front mount, 3 inch exhaust and coil packs on stock turbo and stock dump. The car will be getting mainly street use for at least the next year so I don't want anything too violent on boost and would also like the setup to be as resoponsive as possible, I would like the potential to go to 200-220 rwkw for track use in the future. I'm prepared to do injectors, AFM, split dump and a nistune computer at the same time. Went to adelaide turbo services recently and they recommended the 2871 in rb25 housing for response and 180-220 rwkw power range, does anyone have any experience, thoughts or opinions on such a turbo and the required support modifications?

I can be contacted on 0401 258 114 and postcode is Lockleys 5032 for anyone looking at postage.

Horn button 50 bucks I guess, no on the demister vents.

Sorry if any of yesterday's information was inaccurate, all prices negotiable especially if picking up locally or buying multiple items, cheers. Interior: -Full set of R32 coupe seats, came from 1992 M Spec Gts-t, good condition, blue/grey colour $400 for the set -Full set of R32 coupe door cards (includes rear pillar trims), stripped of cloth inserts, front trims include focal tweeters, good condition $250 for the set -R32 glovebox, complete, good condition $40 -R32 drivers side under steering column panel, holes drilled for turbo timer otherwise good condition, no vent $30 -R32 centre console including handbrake boot, good condition $50 -R32 boot mat, decent condition $30 -Old school Blitz turbo timer with R32 loom $70 -R32 Gt-r steering wheel with Gt-r horn button - decent condition, one tear, will consider seperating horn and wheel $200 -R32 gts-t floor mats, passenger mat missing, stiched badges (not metal ones), good condition $80 -R32 rear view mirror, switch mechanism not functioning $20 -R32 ashtray, black style (not grey grained) $20 -R32 boot/fuel cap release, cracked $10 Engine Bay: -R32 factory side mount intercooler with some piping $100 -R32 retractable front lip with actuators (did not work when in car) $50 -Factory RB20 turbo, no wastegate, running condition, minimal shaft play, I have another turbo with dump pipe which still needs to be ripped out, may or may not have waste gate $150 -GFB boost bleed valve $40 -Clutch master cylinder, needs seal kit, unsure if anyone would want this $10 Exterior: -R32 headlights with working globes, good condition $120 Suspension: -Adjustable rear camber arms, no brand listed, could use rebuild of shoulder joints but still usable $120

Probably call it 200 odd including horn button, I haven't looked at it in a while, pic will be up tomorrow

Need to clean out my shed of my old R32 parts, expressions of interest appreciated, pictures and prices to follow tomorrow. Adelaide, Western Suburbs, Local buyers preferred but can post at buyers expense. Interior: -Full set of R32 coupe seats, came from 1992 M Spec Gts-t, immaculate condition, blue/grey colour -Full set of R32 coupe door cards (includes rear pillar trims), stripped of cloth inserts, front trims include focal tweeters, good condition -R32 glovebox, complete, good condition -R32 drivers side under steering column panel, holes drilled for turbo timer otherwise good condition -R32 centre console including shift and handbrake boots, good condition -R32 boot mat, decent condition -Blitz turbo timer with R32 loom -R32 Gt-r steering wheel with Gt-r horn button - decent condition, one tear -R32 gts-t floor mats, passenger mat missing, stiched badges (not metal ones), good condition -R32 rear view mirror, switch mechanism not functioning -R32 ashtray, black style (not grey grained) Engine Bay: -R32 factory side mount intercooler with some piping -R32 retractable front lip with actuators (did not work when in car) -2x Factory RB20 turbos, one may not have wastegate, both in running condition -1x Factory RB20 dump pipe -Turbo bleed valve (will check on brand) Exterior: -R32 headlights with working globes, good condition

Cheers guys, ended up hooking it up to that frayed fog light switch wire and fixing the wire at the same time, comes on when I turn the headlights to parker or on. Grounded it to the stud above the bonnet release.

Which wire in the headlight switch? Is it necessary to put a fuse in?

Will that require me pulling out the head unit or the centre console surround? I have an aftermarket pioneer head unit. I did notice one of the wires to my fog light switch had a bit of a nick in it (red and green one at top left of plug) could this have been the original source?

My 1992 R32 GTS-T had an AVO turboworld boost gauge installed in the drivers side vent (to the lower right of the steering wheel) when I bought it. It has always been a bit useless as it doesn't light up during night driving. Recently I realised it is much more accurate than the in dash boost gauge and decided I needed to get the backlight wired up (assuming it works) in anticipation of hooking up a turbotech boost controller. After pulling off the lower drivers side dash panel and pulling the gauge out of the vent a bit I found a red wire and a black wire coming from each side of the gauge housing, the two red wires have been spliced together with another wire attached running to the headlight switch, the two black wires are also spliced together. After taking off the dash surround with all the switches I could not find any point where the gauge may have been hooked up in the past and the wire connected to the two reds went no where. Wondering what the easiest way to wire up the backlight to get it to turn on with the headlights, preferentially parkers but otherwise low beam/high beam. Also has anyone heard of the brand AVO Turboworld before? Is it supposed to be decent? The boost gauge is mechanical and is joined with a t piece to the stock gauge line.

Ok thanks mate, I'll get onto it.

Should I be safe to run 12 pound at the manifold? I'll be using a turbotech gated controller and buggering off my gfb bleed valve.

How can I be sure the boost at the compressor isn't unsafely high at a certain manifold boost?

Moved my aftermarket boost gauge so I could see it properly and did see a peak of 0.65 kg/cm2 (nearly 10 psi). Both my dash gauge and aftermarket gauge are hooked up to the intake manifold not the turbo itself, how much higher would the boost be at the compressor? Did a test where I disconnected the t-piece which connects both gauges to the manifold and the aftermarket read 0 while the dash gauge was reading about 100mmHg vacuum, I guess that shows which one is to be trusted.

Any ideas guys? I recall the guy I bought if off saying it was restored to the 'factory' boost of 7 pounds by a tuning shop, could they have changed something? I have ordered a turbotech and pretty keen to nut out this issue so I can use it.

Got the car running tonight. Took it for a run with the bleed valve fully closed and boost was definitely peaking at about 7psi (assuming the halfway point on the boost gauge is 350mmHg as the max is 700mmHg). How do I tell if I have an R33 actuator? What kind of problem could be causing such a low peak if I do have an R32 actuator? Is it likely to be a leaking line to my boost gauge?

For future reference the two bolts which need to be loosened in conjunction with the tension bolt are: One bolt in top left of pump (as you stand at front of car looking into engine bay) this allows the pump to pivot relative to the engine block. One bolt about half way along the thread of the tensioning bolt (and just above it) which allows the tension bolt to pivot. Both of these are partially obscured by the pulley itself.

Nah I've kept the hoses quite short, might have it running tonight

A non gated controller shouldn't creep any more than the stock setup should it?

Yeah was just looking at the Turbotech, might email the guy after I get this set up running and see how shit it is

I've just had a proper look at the controller today and it seems that it is not a ball and spring type valve, rather just a needle that is screwed in and out to restrict access to a bypass port, does this make a difference?

Ok thanks mate I'll have a crack in the next few days

There's no simpler way to do it i.e. Cutting the power to the plugs further back? If not that's cool, I've been meaning to do a compression test soon anyway.

As in all the individual spark plugs?